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Thread: CVD Setup!!!

  1. #1
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    CVD Setup!!!

    OK I have a fully working CVD setup, it will be tested on Sunday hopefully to see if its fully bullet proof

    Parts used

    Outdrive CupDon't Forget You Need 2

    Dogbone Don't Forget You need 2

    Stub Axle

    Washers

    I put 1 washers between the Axle and bearing as normal, then I put 3 or 4 washers between axle and the pin for the hub, worked out very well

    Here is a video of the setup, the only thing I needed to do to get these to work properly is slightly lengthen my turnbuckles otherwise they would jam about 1" away from the suspension being compressed fully. Here is a video of them completed

    http://www.rcpics.net/media/CVD_Complete112213.wmv (copy and paste that into address bar)
    Last edited by Rusty_Noob; 10-27-2005 at 09:20 AM.

  2. #2
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    Hey Rusty,
    I've found it best to put your washers at the back of the assembly.
    By moving the pin down and thus, the dog bone closer to the tranny.
    You stand a better chance of keeping them in the cup when the terrain gets rough.
    I've always had a problem with this, because I like to get a little height when I'm racing in the dirt.
    The plastic washers that MIP sends you, are a temporary set-up at best.
    After a short period of abuse, they start to squish and break down.
    Then you get the wobble and finally, another pair of CVDs.
    I wound up making some spacers out of aluminum, that work really well and have added many tanks to the life of my CVDs.
    But if you have a dremmel and a little time you can re-cut (hardware store) washers to do the same job.
    Here's a look at what I've done to the back of the assembly.
    You can see my little spacer, at the back of the bearings.
    If you look even closer, you can see the valve stem inside the rim.
    This has proven to be the best way to keep dirt from entering my tires.
    The dirt that's sucked into the tire during the "full-life" of the rubber, is tremendous and will make it run in an unbalanced fashion.
    Contributing to bearing failure, drive train and suspension damage, while making the vehicle harder to control and generally loosening everything up.


    I've also noticed that the MIP's stub-axles aren't quite as tough as the Traxxas stockers and will eventually bend.
    But if you use a little caution, they can be bent back into shape with a hammer and anvil.
    (A lot of my repairs are done this way)
    Keep On Wrenchin'

  3. #3
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    What do you mean "turn buckles"

    I wana get this stuff ordered today!

  4. #4
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    Hey Bruce, These are not like the MIP cvd set up at all, and theres such little play in them, barely 2mm so theres no way the bones are getting out.

    Nitrous SSC, The turnbuckle is the thing which attachs to the bearing carrier and the rear bulkhead, mine are wrapped in blue fuel tubing for looks, have u seen the video?

  5. #5
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    these are the turnbuckles.


    i know its hard to see from the small pic but its the rod above the half shafts. to lengthen it just simply unscrew the ends a little at a time.

  6. #6
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    Oh to adjust the difference in camber? My friends and I always have called them camber links. LOL

    Well I'm gona get ordering. I hope it all works! I havn't driven my nitro in almost a week.

    For some reason noob that video won't play for me.

  7. #7
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    ya it wouldnt play for me either untill i saved it. then it worked fine

  8. #8
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    How did the first bashing session go?

  9. #9
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    It didnt, my t-maxx from ebay came through the post guess what I was doing I love my max for serious offroading/hill climbing jumping etc isnt as fun as my rustler though.

    The CVD setup is perfect now, I just adjusted the setup and they work 100% flawlessly.

    I still have alot of ground clearance at back and when the chassis is on the floor at the back they still spin fine.

    What I did was take the washer out before the carrier, so it goes straight from the axle into the bearings with no washer, this works perfectly smooth. This allows more play between the outdrive, bone and axle, but its no way near enough for it to get out under any circumstances. However if I where to do it again I would get some 82mm dogbones rather than 83mm but 83's work fine.

    On Sunday I am taking my rustler out as I found my maxx not as exciting due to the lack of acceleration and top speed, I will get a vid and hopefully will be doing some jumps that have the rustler about 15 foot in the air before landing, this should prove the strength of this setup.
    Last edited by Rusty_Noob; 10-31-2005 at 05:22 PM.

  10. #10
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    I can't wait any longer I wana get rollin before the snow hits. I just ordered all the stuff and 83mm's

    Thanks

  11. #11
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    My parts came.

    My only concern is that the dog bones seen a little small for the MVP cups....the HPI studs they're a good fit.

    I'm gona do the conversion tonight and try it tomorrow. I hope it holds or 35$ out the window.

  12. #12
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    Mine have held up fine, I was running them when I had that bad crash that crippled my RD rear shock tower, and was running them the day before that.

    Im going to be running them Today at 12pm (2am here now, 10 hours to go!!!) against an RS4 (stock) and a tc3 with a 1.6hp moto (Quick As) and Im gonna make sure I take the video camera out so we can see the Rustler own the RS4 "On-Road" car.

  13. #13
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    Ok after installing them I can see why you mentioned to go with 82's. These bind at about 60% shock Travel. No more bottoming out but then again thats alot of pressure on them bones.

    I'm gona use these and get some 82's ordered next week.

    Ya think the 82's will fix this?

    Oh yeah and for a smooth fit and little slack I used 5 washers on each side before the pin.

    Oh btw whats the part link for the 82's. I can't find them.
    Last edited by Nitrous SSC; 11-05-2005 at 10:35 PM.

  14. #14
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    Neither can I unfortunatly. I dont know what to try, maybe search for some brands that TowerHobbies dont stock such as Kyosho etc, they might make some 82mm bones.

    Did you put anywashers between axle and bearing? I took mine out and that little bit of extra play helps loads. Also try messing with shock positioning, I have 100% travel on my shocks, also try lengthen your turnbuckles/tierods to give the bone a bit more room.

  15. #15
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    Had a brainwave (Could be dangerous knowing my brain) But try mounting Electric rustler A-Arms on the rear!!!

    THe nitro ones are 3-5/8" long, the electrics are 3-15/16" Maybe this extra bit of length will solve the problem

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    Hey thats a good idea. The LHS next to my house should have them in stock. I could try some monday. But then I'd need to get longer turn buckles.

    I don't have a washer between the stub and bearing. I have my Camber at less than .5% I don't have binding at full droop just under compression.

    Also I have mine converted from the old style dif outputs that didn't have a hole to the ones that have pins. So on one side of the MVP stubs I had to drill the threads out. But theres NO WAY they're breaking.

    I'm taking it to the park tomorrow to beat it hard. I'll let you know how my testing goes.

  17. #17
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    Just make sure you take your truck with u to the LHS because I dont know wether the gap in the arm where the arm mount goes is the same size

  18. #18
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    I tried CVDs once a few years ago. Never again.

    Stock Traxxas stubs, axles, and the steel output yokes. This with a well adjusted slipper will not fail.

    Mike
    Pain is Temporary, Pride & Achievement is Forever.

  19. #19
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    I hated my MIP cvds but love these onese

  20. #20
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    Its to wet to bash

  21. #21
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    Well It lasted a record 4 tanks of fuel before something let go.

    It seems one of the pins that hold the MVP cup on came off, there was a bind and the dog bone was broke in 1/2.

    DOH!!!!!!!!!!

    Ran AWESOME thou. I'm pretty sure its my fault. I forgot to put lock-tite on the little pinscrew.

    And as usual my wife was driving around in the brushless pede with nothing breaking as she's crashing it into everything.

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  23. #23
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    Nice. I wonder how long their shipping takes. You order first. hehehehe

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    SCORE!!! The hobby shop next to my wife's work has one of the MT shafts in stock. She's gona pick it up on the way home and also check with them and see if they have the kyosho ones.

  25. #25
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    Mine where ordered before I posted here, How much they gonna rip me for shipping tho

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    Good news is I've got another shaft so I'll be back in action. Bad news is that store didn't have the kyosho ones. So let us know how it turns out.

  27. #27
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    One of mine broke now, the end that connects into the bone looks like it was twisted off.

    Im going to order a few of those bone (4or5) just to make sure I have constant power.

    I dont know if u have noticed it but I am sure my rustler accelerates faster with these as well, may just be my imagination tho.

  28. #28
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    I have figured out a way to fix the bones from sheering off. Whats happening is that the angle is causing them to get worn. The MVP outdrives are to long. I'm going to take my dremel and cut them down. This will take away binding and rubbing against the dog bone.

    I'm working on my mustang right now so this has a back seat for a week or so. I'll post pics and an update.

  29. #29
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    I will try this for sure, It will be awesome if it works

    (Rusty_Noob here but my account got blocked, oops )

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