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  1. #321
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    I use my camber guage and lay it on it's side with my ride hieght level from the rear.
    Hip Pocket Racing

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  2. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by mellis32
    Slaydaddy (or anyone),

    How do you set your rear toe? I have set my front toe by measuring (I run 0 degrees), but I want about 2 degrees in the rear. I know how to physically change it, but how do I know I have 2 degrees?

    thnx
    RPM makes a toe in guage for $10.

  3. #323
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    how i do it is i take and mount up rims with no tires and lay the truck up on its rear wheels like a wheely maiking sure it is straight up and down and then i use rpms camber gauge.

    the rpm gauge for toe in isnt the greatest, atleast the 1/10 one and im not even sure they make one for larger trucks and cars ??
    PROJECT BAJA PEDE

  4. #324
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    I have some questions for you racers I see slayden has the deep offset 40 series on his revo for the silver state race, will these turn just as good as a set of the revo wabash. Next I got to drive the 3.3 in a 2.5 revo just off of breakin and on top end it hauls but the bottom end just isn't there compared to my 18tz. I'm not downing it I want to buy one as a back up but does it get better or is that it.

  5. #325
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    Shadowskinner: I use(when I run my revo) the PMB set-up board....

    Ghostridar2005: I also notice the lack of bottom end with the 3.3 but, like you said it's screams on top... So I guess we just have to find a happy medium or just tune for certain tracks that we run on...


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  6. #326
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    I have a surprising question about the center diff. In the stock 2.5 chassis is are a big noticeable difference for the better? Remember the best thing about the revo was how simple it is the setup for racing. The center diff add another part that can cause problem (Like the 1/8 scale trucks). Also is it the extended 3.3 chassis that make the big difference?

  7. #327
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    Well how is it that the t-maxx will flip over but in the revo 2.5 it pulls along easy and then pulls hard on top.

  8. #328
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    I run a 14T CB, 38 Spur with the 3.3 Plenty of bottom end, not as snappy as a our TM's or TZ, but trust me, there is more bottom end than you can use. I also run standard ratio tranny gears so the top end speed is plenty as well.

  9. #329
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    Let me be alittle clearer... Lack of bottom end... Compared to the tm(modded at that) and my OPS... As Roy stated there is enough bottom there, I just like more than enough....

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  10. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by RD Racing
    tazman,

    The hole location on the a arms is a ride height adjustment. What rockers are you using? If you are having a "spring thing" then you need to look at some other parts of your setup. Roll center (upper suspension arm hinge pins) front and back. Are they in the lower holes? Upper holes? What shock springs are you using? What is your ride height (axles level, arms level,etc.) front and rear?

    It's hard to figure out exactly what problem you are having only knowing what shock oil you are using.

    BTW, my REVO is way more planted than my Jammin CRT
    My Set Up
    Roll Center upper hole front and rear
    P2 Rockers
    Ride height (smooth) arms level F/R (ruf stuff) Fr a little taller/ Rr arms level
    Traxxas 3.3 16/38 Gearing
    Diff Set Up 50K FR/10K RR
    Close Ratio Gears
    Forward Only Conversion
    40Wt Oil + Gold Springs R
    40Wt Oil + Orange Springs F

  11. #331
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    Well I just didn't want to get it and be mad cause my tz will out pull the 3.3 and the rb323 out the hole and I was pulling them on top end but my truck would spin out when it changed to second(wrong diff set up). Plus the 3.3 only had about 9 tanks in it so I'm not downing it.

  12. #332
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    Roy - I think I may have made a mistake in picking up the "bottom to mid" Resonator for my 3.3, what pipe are you using? And hey, I don't suppose you'd want the 2.5R piston, sleeve, and rod back that you gave me at the Pro Series last year? Know anyone that could use it? I never got around to installing it, bought a 3.3 for this year. Heh, still haven't stepped up to a starter box yet, though - Again, I'll be the only guy at the race using a bright orange Black and Decker cordless to start my truck.

    Steve, I've been hearing some rumors that you may be heading up to Canby, Oregon this weekend - any truth to it?

  13. #333
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Sorc, no, just pass it along to someone else that may need it. Pay it forward ;-) I run the stock pipe on the 3.3 with an O.S. header. I have tried the Resonator and it seem to make the tune finicky and it was a bit too loud for me, I am getting old haha!

    tazman, I would either go down in springs or up in oil thickness. white front, green rear with the 40wt will feel soft but will be planted, with no springy feel (thats what I run). Thicker oil (50wt, 60wt?) with those springs will slow the dampining down and slow the rebound, a stiffer feel, but should not feel springy.

    TOPS, I like alot of bottom end, it fits my style of driving, I do not feel like I gave up anything changing to the 3.3 in the bottom end power once I changed to a 14t CB.

  14. #334
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    Another good point, Roy.... The revo I was driving either had stock or 15/40 gearing...

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  15. #335
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    the way the clutch engages has alot to do with the nsapieness of your truck also.
    PROJECT BAJA PEDE

  16. #336
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    The 3.3 does open up some on the bottom around the 1/2 to gallon mark. Something I noticed that has helped the center diff is putting higher diff fluid in the rear. The off power rotation stops and the ride height stays level. I had been running 7k and it would rotate with the RPMs but with 20k it rolls with the speed of my truck or alittle slower and levels out. I'm running 40-300-20 and it is the best set-up so far.
    Hip Pocket Racing

    revo-world.com

  17. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by atmo
    I'm running 40-300-20 and it is the best set-up so far.
    When you say you use 40 and 20k, do you actually mix 50k and 30k to got 40k or did you find 40k somewhere?
    Got nitro?

  18. #338
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    I use the traxxas 50k and 30k and mix equal amounts.
    Hip Pocket Racing

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  19. #339
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    Center diff I have and some others around here have had the CD loading up and it acts like it is slipping as it engages and as it shifts into second gear. What I have so far that stops this without anything higher than 300k is differential stop grease. It is close to 800k and I mixed about 1/5 stop to 4/5 300k and it is shifting like it did before and more important it comes out of the hole like it did before. i have order 500k and it has not arrived but the CD needs as thick as possible as far as I have been able to come up with for a strong straight hole shot and not to over rev at shift point.
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  20. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by atmo
    Center diff I have and some others around here have had the CD loading up and it acts like it is slipping as it engages and as it shifts into second gear. What I have so far that stops this without anything higher than 300k is differential stop grease. It is close to 800k and I mixed about 1/5 stop to 4/5 300k and it is shifting like it did before and more important it comes out of the hole like it did before. i have order 500k and it has not arrived but the CD needs as thick as possible as far as I have been able to come up with for a strong straight hole shot and not to over rev at shift point.
    What exactly is differential stop grease and where can you get it?

  21. #341
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    It's a thick automotive grease used for small cars to mimick a LSD. It also is avaailable as a 5th wheel grease it like a soft tar almost
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  22. #342
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    Hey Guys, I have some questions. But first I'm going to post my setup I currently have, and my purchasing list, to better help you guys answer my question. Now I'm not new to racing, but frankly don't get to race as often as I like. So I like to have the best idea of what I should/shouldn't do before I get to the track.

    First Here is a list of my hop-ups/mods:
    Vantage Chassis
    JD Carbon P2 Pushrods
    JD Carbon Turnbuckles
    JD Carbon A-arm pins
    3.3 chassis brace
    Pro-line Steering Arm
    MBX5 custom mounted tank
    RPM receiver box, custom mounted
    RPM front arms
    Hi-tec 5955TG steering servo
    Airtronics 94358z throttle servo
    JR310 reciever and JR remote
    Shaved front bumper
    Custom Carbon Fiber rear battery mount
    Xtreme Carbon fiber throttle servo mount
    Traxxas Setback rear Arms
    RD Racing Quickturn
    Motor Saver Air filter
    Traxxas forward only conversion
    Thottle arm w/ bearings
    Dubro Fuel Filter
    Slayden steering mods
    10K in rear
    30k in front
    P2 rockers







    My Buying list:
    3.3 Bumpstart engine
    Center Diff
    Rear brake
    Gearbox halfs
    RPM bearing Carriers
    Differential Oil Kit
    RB Concept 1/8th off-road air filter set


    Now for some questions.


    I'll be running in the Pro Series and the NWCT, I'm going to try to attend the races from here on out. (do my best lol)

    Anyways, I'd like some setup tips. First some information about me lol. I'm a basher turned racer. Even now I never really touch my springs, diff oils, camber, caster etc.. I adjust my driving to the truck rather then adjust the truck to my driving.

    So I'm looking for some help. What setup tools should I get to get me started. And is their any suggestion on using those tools?

    What should I have my camber/castor set at?

    Springs and oil. As pictured my truck weighs 7 lbs 12.1 ounces. I'm curious to know what springs I should use and my oil setup. I prefer a truck thats absorbs what it hits, lands etc.. So a soft setup.

    Diff oil selection. Seems like this is a huge subject lol. Where should I start, and when I adjust what should I look for in changes?

    Steering! I'm in love with steering and can't get enough of it. What setups will get me the best steering use.


    Quick turn and Centerdiff? I know some use both, whats the benefits, and your opinion on this?

    Now for the wing. I had a wing and after about a gallon of fuel I managed to snap the rear body mount. Should I get another? And if so should I stick with my mugen setup or go tekno?

    For you heavy large event racers, what else should I know? What spares should I bring etc..

    I don't want to go to a race weekened and have something go wrong and me not be able to finish the weekened.


    Thanks for the answers and help!!

    -Gotbling?
    Racer E-Revo, Nitro Revo, aluminum BL pede, T-maxx

  23. #343
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    how about some part #s for the rear wing and mount

  24. #344
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    What spares....

    engine
    bearings(all)
    axle carriers
    axles or axle stubs
    filters
    servos and horns
    steering linkage
    shocks or shock ends
    push rods and ends
    toe links and ends

    That should have you covered... Some of these parts can be replaced with aftermarket parts and you shouldn't have to weary about them...(as long as you do regular maintenance) HTH

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  25. #345
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    Quote Originally Posted by TOPS
    What spares....

    engine
    bearings(all)
    axle carriers
    axles or axle stubs
    filters
    servos and horns
    steering linkage
    shocks or shock ends
    push rods and ends
    toe links and ends

    That should have you covered... Some of these parts can be replaced with aftermarket parts and you shouldn't have to weary about them...(as long as you do regular maintenance) HTH

    PEACE
    TOPS

    most of those are aftermarket and I have the stockers as back ups. As for the ends. I added them to my list. SO CHECK lol. THANKS!

    What about setup help? How are you accurately measuring your toe and camber?
    Last edited by Gotbling?; 06-27-2006 at 09:33 PM.
    Racer E-Revo, Nitro Revo, aluminum BL pede, T-maxx

  26. #346
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    Gotbling?, Like I said above I use the PMB set-up board....

    As far as set-up... You need to check with the fast guys running at the track(s) that you will be running at... And go from there... Pretty simple....

    Tell you the truth I didn't even read you're whole post.... I saw what spares to bring, and responded.... My fualt... Do you have skid plates(mainly the rear)on your list? If not add'em... Good luck with your racing, watch your attitude so folks will help....

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  27. #347
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    If I seemed to have an attitude I deeply apologize. Didn't mean for it to come off like that at all.

    Thanks for the tip on the skid plates. they are added to my list.
    Racer E-Revo, Nitro Revo, aluminum BL pede, T-maxx

  28. #348
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    No sweat...


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  29. #349
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    how are you guys doing with the rear break set up? im still seem to be getting more front braking then rear. tried screwing rear in but keep getting the brakes on when rolling. have the front brakes as loose as poss

    cheers Rb
    Os 18 Tm Racer

  30. #350
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    Pick your truck up by the rear and roll it while you adjust the brake bias. Then do the same with the rears. You might have to back them off some at your disc. i'm running about 20% front to 80% rear with a soft brake set-up. I'm not real heavy on my brakes just enough to slow me down but I don't like to use them as a pivot for turning.
    Hip Pocket Racing

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  31. #351
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    i to am having trouble with my brake bias but my big prob is finding a good oil weight for the center diff.. and the front and rear for that matter..

    what are yall runnin in your diffs, and in what track conditions
    REVO 3.3 all tekno -hpi tank-rpm arms -23mm velocities -mt fighters-stripped alluminium tubes-custom side pipe-center diff & brake- proline wing - ms air filter-hitec hsc5997 tg-spektrum dx3
    (80% warning so please be nice)

  32. #352
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    40-450-40 the track is good size with a 140 foot straight with technicial aspects thru out. Right know it's alittle blown out with some hard rains that has rutted out alot of the track.
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  33. #353
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. IAMI's Avatar
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    Atmo, you have to be getting pretty close to the feel of a solid shaft in the tranny instead of a diff with that thick of fluid. Also, what did you use to calculate your 450wt? A WAG?

    Or did you use this converter? http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...l?SMSESSION=NO

  34. #354
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    You can tell alot from peeps post lol....

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  35. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by RD Racing
    Atmo, you have to be getting pretty close to the feel of a solid shaft in the tranny instead of a diff with that thick of fluid.
    Kinda what I was thinkin also. My son ran 50-300-30 last weekend and did very well. The front ballooned a little bit, but was acceptable. Our track measures 180' x 90' with around a 70' straight. The rest is technical.

  36. #356
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    No not really what I wanted was that same punch out of the hole and no drag at shift point. With 300k it has alittle drag off the line and a noticable drag at shift point it "unloads". With the thicker my fronts still ballon alot but it's as strong out of the hole as ever and shifting like it use to. Like I said I'm like all of us and just trying as many set-ups as possible until I find whats right for my driving style and track conditions. I keep a complete tranny with a back-up CD in it so it is alot easier to swap with different fluids a see how she reacts. My next will have straight diff fluid mixed @ 400k and 500k. Currently my mixture is 4 parts 300k with 1 part Diff locking grease so it's a best estimate on what my mix is
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  37. #357
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    http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...l?SMSESSION=NO
    here is a fluid blender it works for all silicone oils. works great...gives percent of each fluid
    jeremie

  38. #358
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    I will be running 500k tonight to see how it performs. It is thick. I may have 80/20 brake bias with no front brakes

  39. #359
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    need help

    Ok, I have read thru this thread and it may have been there but I'm too lazy to go back and find it.

    Diff oils? Where do you get the 300-500K weights? What is the brand?

    Thanks ahead of time. BTW, Some Good stuff in here foresure!
    GRIP IT AND RIP IT!

  40. #360
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    Associated makes a 300k $7 bucks Kyosho 500k $15 bucks but it is bigger and will last forever
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