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  1. #1
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    Traxxas Revo Racing Thread

    I am starting an all new thread for our latest REVO project the F3 REVO. This truck will be based on the TRAXXAS REVO platform but will include all of the latest hop ups. But first I want to add the links to the other REVO racing threads as requested by the TRAXXAS forum moderators.

    Original long thread:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...hreadid=253197

    Second thread:
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...hreadid=263681

    There are a few guide lines we need to follow so we keep this thread open and running. We need to make sure we adhere to the TRAXXAS forum rules.

    Also please do not ask for help about non-TRAXXAS related items.

    Example:

    "How do I tune my O.S. .18TM?"

    If you have questions about tuning your TRAXXAS 2.5 for racing then feel free to post them here.

    We can mention and discuss aftermarket REVO parts but let's make sure we stay within the forum guide lines.

    If we can keep this thread informational and professional then we can have this tuning aid for quite some time and use it for future reference.

    I will start with posting Steve "Slaydaddy" Slayden's base REVO set up. This is a perfect starting point for just about any track you go to.

    Steve Slayden's Base Setup:
    http://www.traxxas.com/products/nit...Setup_Sheet.pdf

    Steve Slayden's REVO Performance Setup Guide Part 1:
    http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/...guide_part1.htm

    Steve Slayden's REVO Performance Setup Guide Part 2:
    http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/r...ormance_sc.htm

    First and foremost practice, practice, practice. Memorize the layout of your track. Know the throttle points, let off points, and braking points. Consistancy wins off-road races, not the fastest truck or best handling truck. If you combine all of these then you'll be pretty tough at your home track.

    Brian Kinwald told me something at the Snowbirds in 2002:

    "Keep it straight on all 4"

    Meaning: smooth on the throttle so you don't fishtail off the corners or jumps, do not use lots of air if not needed on single jumps, and try not to crash keeping it on all 4. Just because someone else can double a jump every lap, if you can not do it the whole race don't try. Save the trying for practice until you can double the whole run. You will make more time up (lower lap times) on all 4 than trying to get lots of air off a single jump.
    Last edited by Tornado_Racing; 10-27-2005 at 06:58 AM.
    2005 O'Donnell Fuel Nats Small Block TQ and Win*****2005 Summer Nitro Fest Small Block Win*****2005 Big Uns Race Small Block Win

  2. #2
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    Re: Traxxas Revo Racing Thread

    Originally posted by Tornado_Racing
    Brian Kinwald told me something at the Snowbirds in 2002:

    "Keep it straight on all 4"

    Meaning: smooth on the throttle so you don't fishtail off the corners or jumps, do not use lots of air if not needed on single jumps, and try not to crash keeping it on all 4. Just because someone else can double a jump every lap, if you can not do it the whole race don't try. Save the trying for practice until you can double the whole run. You will make more time up (lower lap times) on all 4 than trying to get lots of air off a single jump.
    Very very good advice. I learned through experience slow and steady instead of fast and jerky.

    Was running in the A-Main when after pitting for the last time, my glow plug started to foul. This made my Revo very very rich (plug fouling, not hot enough to burn all the fuel). So rich the Revo would have a problem pushing a basketball downhill ( now that's rich). I just keep the throttle nailed all the way around the track. Amazingly enough though I was running laps only 4-5 second slower than when I was at WOT and spinning everywhere. I sat there for a couple minutes looking at the time sheet after the race in amazement. The owner, a very seasoned driver, comes up and tells me to keep that copy of the time sheet as a lesson.

    Welp, lesson learned. I have since been working on throttle control and consistancy throughout the race and around the track. My lap times have decreased, the number of laps I run per race has increased, and my confidence has increased 10x.

    Tornado, great start to what looks to be another great Racing Revo Thread.

    P.S. Good luck on the F3 and hope to see pics soon and often.

  3. #3
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    I will try to get some pics together this weekend of some of the new parts for the F3.

    Here is a small list of what will go on the truck:

    Milled lightweight stock chassis
    Milled lightweight bulkheads
    SB (Set Back) Rear Arms
    Hardened Steel Diff gears
    Hardened Steel ring/pinion gears
    Hardened Steel spur gear
    Flourine Coated diff cups
    Center one-way w/rear mounted brake
    Adjustable one-way front driveshafts
    2005 O'Donnell Fuel Nats Small Block TQ and Win*****2005 Summer Nitro Fest Small Block Win*****2005 Big Uns Race Small Block Win

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing
    I will try to get some pics together this weekend of some of the new parts for the F3.

    Here is a small list of what will go on the truck:

    Milled lightweight stock chassis
    Milled lightweight bulkheads
    SB (Set Back) Rear Arms
    Hardened Steel Diff gears
    Hardened Steel ring/pinion gears
    Hardened Steel spur gear
    Flourine Coated diff cups
    Center one-way w/rear mounted brake
    Adjustable one-way front driveshafts

    Tornado, please where can I have more informations about Center one-way w/rear mounted brake
    Adjustable one-way front driveshafts[/QUOTE] and buy it? Tanks a lot

  5. #5
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    slow and steady is right, I run agaunst my brother in monster truck class with his e-maxx and I run my t-maxx, his e-maxx is a complete racing machine, gorilla maxx extended chassis, the works. I was first in the a-main going into the mains and he was 2nd, he always crashed coming out of one corner because he carried too much speed in the corner, I took it slow and easy, fast enough not to lose a bunch of time but slow enough to take it without crashing. I ended up beating my brother by 2 laps, he had a 6 and 5.04 and I had a 8 and 5.10, just for an example as too laps at our track, the eigth scales are barely making nine laps, so I'm running pretty quick IMO.

  6. #6
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    Originally posted by Tornado_Racing
    Center one-way w/rear mounted brake
    I would love to see a pic of this setup!

    Also, where are you getting the hardened diff gears from? Is it a coming up traxxas part or aftermarket?
    Last edited by mrtune; 10-27-2005 at 10:03 PM.

  7. #7
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    tor glad you said something about that also what do people constantly ask you about stuff you dont know like my engine isnt working and thats all they tell you i HATE that but i respect your work alot an keep em going JNSJ

  8. #8
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    I give up...

    I tried to keep up with his F2, now he has an F3.

    My goal is to sell the truck, not build it more.

    I LOVE building the trucks, more then I love racing them, but time comes to an end, and I have to stop somewhere.

    I'll still enjoy reading this thread, but I'm not going to do anything your doing, unless it's under 30-40 bucks and drastic.

    I might buy the SB arms, if I still have the truck when they come out.

    Thanks for so much info Tornado!!!

  9. #9
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    MRTUNE...............
    As soon as I can post a few pic I will. I am still in the "hoe the heck do I do it" stage on the rear brake, but I'm sure I can "Jerry Rig" up something.

    Hardened Steel Diff Gears

    Hardened Steel Ring/Pinion

    Hardened Steel Gear set

    Hardened Steel Spur

    NITRORACER21..................
    The most asked question we get is:
    "What tires are you running this week" and "My motor is running hot, but that's the only way to get any power. How do you keep temps down with that much HP?"

    CARBONREVO....................
    We are actually taking the F2 and making upgrades to an F3. Kinda like a conversion kit. The Vantage chassis is too brittle so we went back to the stock chassis, but we are milling and drilling to reduce weight. The bulkheads will also be drilled so as much weight above the driveshafts can be reduced. The Vantage chassis weghs 4.9oz. and the stock chassis weighs 8.4oz. We have milled our stock chassis down to 7.3oz. and can still drill and mill some more. Our goal is to get the chassis below 7oz. and with the drilled bulkheads to make the combined drilled TRAXXAS parts as light as a Vantage and stock bulkheads.

    Don't give up, never give up. Just take your F2 and make an F3 out of it with the upcoming new mods I'll be posting in the near future. No problem on the info, glad we can help.
    Last edited by Tornado_Racing; 10-28-2005 at 05:32 AM.
    2005 O'Donnell Fuel Nats Small Block TQ and Win*****2005 Summer Nitro Fest Small Block Win*****2005 Big Uns Race Small Block Win

  10. #10
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    darn, man... I haven't finished my F2 and you are already coming with the F3 LOL!!!!!

  11. #11
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    i find it interesting that you are going with HR products.. the one and only thing i have bought from them turned out to be a complete dud.


    If the dice roll works out i would like reviews on each part, you are going to drive this truck right?

  12. #12
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    We have been running their 2 piece diff cups and Ti U-joints for some time now. Their Ti axles do snap so we don't run those though.

    You won't know until you try!

    As far as driving, nope fo me. Daniel will be at the wheel.
    2005 O'Donnell Fuel Nats Small Block TQ and Win*****2005 Summer Nitro Fest Small Block Win*****2005 Big Uns Race Small Block Win

  13. #13
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    hey hey hey lol

    this weekend i m running full 2WD i took off the drive shefts and front diff left nuthin but the axle stuc in it decreased weight an i m hoping to increase the ACCEL. while keepin the top speed the same



    also if i run a motor at 60% carb an have it running at temp of 200 degrees is that to lean thanks

  14. #14
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    Tornado...

    Sounds really awesome. I wish I could keep building the truck tho! I really need to sell the truck instead of pour more money into it. I still need daces, a MBX-5 fuel tank, throttle mount, and other micellaneous parts before I even have it to what the F2 was. I really do enjoy building the trucks more then racing them. I'm planning on buying a Porsche 944 Turbo next summer, and I need all the money I can get to pay for it. If I didn't have that car in the way, then yea, I'd certainly keep building. I will follow the thread though, and can probably come up with some other cool features. Before I did the conversion of my truck, I had a "swiss" cheese chassis, it was pretty dang light, and cut up a bunch. Very lightweight indeed, but very ugly. I think the bulkheads are a good thing to drop weight on, as they are kind of heavy.

    On another note...I got my Trinity Hi Flo pipe today, and bulkheads, carriers, a new diff, steering assembly, and center driveshafts in the mail yesterday. Just waiting on another diff and driveshafts, and I'm going to tear the truck down and replace the parts. If you have it done in time, let me see some pics and a write up on the bulkhead drilling. Might have to do that!

  15. #15
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    You sir are a creative soul! I spend some time indoors on the carpet tracks and you kick it up a notch to F3! Center diff? I can't wait for Spring!
    Can't win if you don't finish!

  16. #16
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    ey quick questing for you racing guys.

    I'm making a rule suggestion for the norwegian racing foundation atm. Does the ROAR and RCPro definition of standard monster truck really work to split truggies and monster trucks? What are your feedback on RCPro and ROAR MT rules atm?

    I would like to know as the text is soon sent in to the foundation and I hope to have some serious MT racing in Norway next year.

    Team Java Monster

  17. #17
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    amazing!!!!

    EDITED
    Last edited by BlueMonster; 10-31-2005 at 07:27 PM.

  18. #18
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    will you plz post some new pics.

  19. #19
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    Tornado, you and ya boy go make it to the RC Pro finale? Hope to hear about the f2 or f3 doing it's thang....

    PEACE
    TOPS

  20. #20
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    Hey Tony,

    To get ready for the finals, I went ahead and did the side-exhaust mod. I used that HPI header and it works good with the Trinity pipe. It is pretty close to the throttle arm but it doesn't seem like it's going to be a problem. I also got the Hot Bodies Lightning body and sadly the bulge on the side for the exhaust pipe still doesn't fit. I had to cut that section out, but man, the paint job I did makes it all worth it, it's SICK. With the Hot Bodies body, my extended chassis, and the side exhaust along with the 8th scale wing, it looks like a truggy if you couldn't see the front push rods. Im going to get some pics tomorow. Also, one thing Im worried about is since the Trinity pipe's stinger is so long, it might bottom out, because I have it pointed down. I also JB welded the original pressure nipple shut and drilled/tapped a hole for a new pressure nipple.

    Also, I was wondering about taking the stinger insert out, and cutting down the stinger a bit so it isn't so long, and I can re-insert the stinger insert. If you look inside the pipe the stinger continues to travel to a little more than half way into the pipe, so the stinger insert won't stick out inside the pipe. What would be the side effects of doing this? I don't mind it being louder, but comparing to the stock pipe, the stinger is REALLY long.

  21. #21
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    for modding the side bulge i suggest 2 1/4 sections of metal pipe (copper) and a heat gun and some clamps..


    this is just ansi but it might show what i mean

    Line it up like so )|)

    Press together with clamps >))<

    apply heat to the metal


    cool down, remove then paint.

  22. #22
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    looped, have you tried doing that before?

    But Im growing to like how the exhaust sticks out, it looks pretty cool. I just feel sorry for the turnmarshall who's going to touch it.

  23. #23
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    Originally posted by OneBigMan647
    I just feel sorry for the turnmarshall who's going to touch it.
    LOL, I am sure the trurm marshall with have plenty of opportunities to flip you back over

    HA j/k Armand, see you in a few days

  24. #24
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    Side exhaust for Armand, I've got that noted Roy. Should be easier for me to cause some serious hack damage with a side hit

    Nothing personal Armand, it's all about the team effort

    Go Team Pacific NorthWest

  25. #25
    Registered User OneBigMan647's Avatar
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    LOL, see you guys on wensday. If you get there before me, remember to save me a spot on the pit tables too. I don't need too much space since Anto isn't racing his Jato.

    Well, I got some pics of my new body, side exhaust, and a couple of other random mods.

    I tried experimenting with some window tint spray I got and I tried making some "tinted flames." Turned out pretty well.



    Pretty good for a spray can job. I just wanted this body to be blacked out with flames everywhere. I also got a bit creative with the windows and the different color wheels. You can't really see the flames on the roof, bed, and the rear fenders in the picture. This Frost Red is a transparent paint, and very glossy and dark. Once you see it in the sun you can see all the flames.







    Here is the side exhaust. I used the HPI Nitro RS4 3 header Tony found, some cvec coupler and some t-maxx pipe hanger wire. That's it. I used the roll bar mounting holes to mount the pipe hanger, and everything else just fit with no clearance issues or anything. Of course, you must cut the side of the body out. Oh, and I also covered the original pressure nipple with JB weld, and drilled/tapped a new hole with a new position for the pressure nipple(as shown in picture). It's also MUCH easier to work on the rear suspension area. Now I can change the rear springs with no hassles.



    Here is the stock brake disc slotted. I can't remember the guy who did it first, he was on the Traxxas boards but I give all the credit to him. These slots do cool the brake disc a bit better.



    Here is the slayden "tank cap" mod. Since I didn't have any flat aluminum or any thick plastic around, I decided to make use of my old rear chassis brace. I replaced this old one because the holes where the hinge pins go through had a ton of slop. I cut it up and shaped it to perfectly fit the bulge of the pressure nipple. This mod is awesome, you never have to worry about your caps hanger getting stuck in the body or moving anywhere else. For this, it stays there and when the truck comes in for the pit stop, you know exactly where to lift with no looking around.

    Also, with the new Traxxas orange o-ring, there is no air leak/stretching of the o-ring problems anymore.





    Enjoy!
    Last edited by OneBigMan647; 11-06-2005 at 12:33 PM.

  26. #26
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    Thank you for the pics. I broke my fill "thing" and was looking for new ideas, as I am a fabricator of sorts. this worked great and took a very short time to make.

  27. #27
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    Nice!! Do you think the Mugen MSR truggy body would fit on the Revo just as well as that one?
    I love the smell of nitro in the morning.

  28. #28
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    nice car mate .spot on with that one!!!!!!
    www.rchopups.co.uk is the place to go.

  29. #29
    Registered User OneBigMan647's Avatar
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    Wheels, I would think it would, but remember, I am running an extended chassis. If I wasn't, the front end would stick out quite a bit.

  30. #30
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    Armand, you missing a big chunk on that cooling head or is it the picture?

  31. #31
    Registered User OneBigMan647's Avatar
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    Yup, half a fin broke off, doesn't seem to affect anything though.

  32. #32
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    I got an extra one, ya want it?
    Last edited by RB_RACING; 11-06-2005 at 03:07 PM.

  33. #33
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    nice truck OneBigMan. the window flames turned out nice. great job!

  34. #34
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    You screwed the cooling head on wrong One big man.
    Also a bugger ate your airfilter
    Last edited by shlum; 11-06-2005 at 04:54 PM.

  35. #35
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    torn is the F2 sold or what

  36. #36
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    i put a thread about my revo and it had the side exhast on it. i moddified the body mounts and was able to lower the body another quarter inch. THE TIRES ARE SLIGHTLY HIGHER THAN THE BODY WHICH MAKES IT LOOK A LOT LIKE A TRUGGY. I ALSO CUT ABOUT A HALF INCH OFF THE BOTTOM OF THE BODY TO GIVE IT A SLIM LOOK, BUT IT STILL HIDES THE RADIO BOX AND FUEL TANK.

  37. #37
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    what a link to the thread Alfred?

  38. #38
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    Alfred,

    What a link to the thread?

    Tornado,

    You used to run the GMC Sierra LP body didn't ya. If so where can a guy pick on up at?

  39. #39
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    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...lean+mean+revo


    here it is, im gonna try a new body, something wiht a low roof line. any suggestions??

  40. #40
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    Hey get a 79 ford bronco body or the jeep rubicon body from hpi they look like the most scale realistic on the rubicon 1in between fender wheel hte bodys are wider totaly blows every proline body ive ever had away plus u can still run a wing use hpi black ******** wing and line the holes up with the rear revo posts i wish every body can see what these wider bodys look like tower has measurments it has to be at least 17.5in long to fit a 3.3 revo you might try a ******** body whatever u get make sure its at least 7.5in wide i think this would be perfect .This is the JConcepts Heavy-Duty Illuzion Body for the
    HPI ******** Truck Model.

    FEATURES: Heavy-Duty thickness polycarbonate construction
    Hard edge styling with a front hood scoop
    Body roof is wedged for an aggressive look
    The rear of the body has been designed for extra bed durability
    Protective outer film protects the body during painting
    Die-cut window mask to make painting easier
    Decal sheet features headlights and other details

    INCLUDES: One Clear Illuzion Body
    One Decal Sheet
    One Die-Cut Window Mask Sheet

    REQUIRES: Paint of modeler's choice, scissors - DTXR1150 and Reamer - DTXR11555

    SPECS: Length: 18.5" (470mm)
    Width: 8.25" (210mm)
    Height: 5.5" (140mm)
    RB-523-TURBO-REVO-ROCKET

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