Jato on a diet

**Jato666** · 10-20-2005 04:01 PM

Im making my Jato go on a diet. I want to lose as much weight as possible, without going overboard (nothing extremely expensive). Ive swapped the ez-start for an Ofna starter similar to a roto start to save 4 ounces. Lunsford racing TB's saved 9 grams. besides that, i cant really think of anything else. I just want to shed some weight. so my next step is lighter rims. whats the lightest 2.2" rim out there? im guessing some dished rims from proline, but im not sure. also, any other suggestions on what to do to save weight? I have RPM talonz on now..not heavy, but their certainly not light.

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 04:09 PM

ditch the mud guards , drill some holes in the chassie , shave the front bumper and rear bumper , roll bar can go , holes in the top plate and cut away as much of the battery box and reciver box as u can

**Ashalak** · 10-20-2005 06:07 PM

Originally posted by k1e1v1i1n
ditch the mud guards , drill some holes in the chassie , shave the front bumper and rear bumper , roll bar can go , holes in the top plate and cut away as much of the battery box and reciver box as u can

You can't be serious?!

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 06:14 PM

why not he wants to loose weight

**OneBigMan647** · 10-20-2005 06:26 PM

Drill holes in the chassis and top plate?

You want the truck to keep it's structural integrity. Especially since it's a stadium truck, it bottoms out very easily and the chassis needs to be as strong as it gets. Besides, drilling holes won't even get rid of an ounce.

You can try going with a starterbox/backplate, remove the mud guards and roll bar as k1e1v1i1n stated, you can get some aluminum axles, Traxxas optional driveshafts, a single-speed conversion, and you can remove the center battery box if your not using it.

**Jato666** · 10-20-2005 06:45 PM

im gunna remove the mud guards and see what they weigh, but im not sure its that much. roll bar is only a few grams, and it gives the truck structural integrity, plus its a ROLL BAR!! i flip alot, so i need that. as far as a starter box, i just got the ofna starter, plus it would only save a few grams. too much money for too little. i need my 2 speed

...im really wonderin about rims..rotating weight is more important!

well, im gunna get the driveshafts and the spindles (only $8 and i save a few grams)

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 06:53 PM

dude ur thinking is backwards . ur saying a little here and a little there well thats how it gos u add up all those savings and its alot , anyways the truck dosent weigh that much to start with . if u can take off 10% thats huge

**Jato666** · 10-20-2005 07:01 PM

Originally posted by k1e1v1i1n
dude ur thinking is backwards . ur saying a little here and a little there well thats how it gos u add up all those savings and its alot , anyways the truck dosent weigh that much to start with . if u can take off 10% thats huge

your right, but i dont want to lose rigidity and lose weight. handling will decrease. i think i will do the mudguards and all that stuff tommorow and weigh it.

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 07:11 PM

here u go i know this is a diffrent truck but its still a st and he went crazy with shaving it and he says it handles better then ever . click here

**Ian Bowers** · 10-20-2005 07:24 PM

Originally posted by k1e1v1i1n
here u go i know this is a diffrent truck but its still a st and he went crazy with shaving it and he says it handles better then ever . click here

Its an electric stadium truck running a stock motor, Two different things, The chassis for one thing, Isn't aluminum!

**VandyV** · 10-20-2005 07:30 PM

take your car to weight watchers. lol. check 4 carbon fiber parts.

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 07:31 PM

thats right , so our aluminum chassis is much stronger so if u wanted to loose a bit wouldnt b the end of the world .

**Ian Bowers** · 10-20-2005 08:07 PM

Originally posted by k1e1v1i1n
thats right , so our aluminum chassis is much stronger so if u wanted to loose a bit wouldnt b the end of the world .

Not quite, Kev, Aluminum is Stiffer, plastic is Lighter, and can flex, if the aluminum was drilled out, you wouldn't have the chassis Rigidy, and from one bad jump you would bend the whole chassis.

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 08:16 PM

wow can u post ur pics from when u did it . oh ya ur just guessing and who knows what hes going to do with his car maybe its oval track and it will never see a bump or maybe its for onroad and the same will b true , but eather way its for him to do not u .

**OneBigMan647** · 10-20-2005 08:44 PM

Can you post pics of when you did it?

First off, electrics don't need aluminum chassis's because first off, they are much lighter, and they don't have engines. If you used a plastic chassis on a nitro car, you'd be stripping gears spur gears constantly because the engine just vibrates so much and can flex the plastic very easily, constantly engaging/disengaging the gear mesh.

If you do drill holes in your chassis, you won't save more than an ounce, and it's at the lowest center of gravity so it will barely affect the handling characteristics of the car. Then you have the chance of having chassis tweak. If your chassis is tweaked, the car can veer off to one side when on the throttle, and can handle differently in left to right turns. One of the worst things to have in a car/truck.

Even if he is running oval or on-road, you still want to maintain the stiffest ride to reduce as much chassis flex as possible.

If you want to, go ahead and drill holes in your chassis, see how much weight you lose, if performance was gained, and tell us how the chassis is after a gallon of running off-road.

When it comes to losing weight, always keep your electronics properly sealed, never shave anything that can potentionally weaken the structural integrity of the car, and try to remove as much unsprung weight as possible. The lighter your suspension is, the more efficient it is, and you have a lighter, more responsive truck. If you ever do remove a huge amount of weight, such as removing the ez-start, remember to compensate for the weight loss and soften up your suspension a bit. Move down a step on the springs, and experiment which shock oil suits your driving style.

**superUEmaxx** · 10-20-2005 09:41 PM

it's a pan chassis. it's going to bottom out, and if theirs holes in the chassis their going to pack up with clay, and dig into the ground......

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 09:47 PM

not with a thin layer of lexan on the bottom , i guess its put up or shut up and i have a extra chassis anyways so tomorrow i will carve it up i will post pics of my plan in a sec when i upload them . ok well here u go the plan i have so far i would do it tonight but i dont live alone and everyone would kill me .

**superUEmaxx** · 10-20-2005 10:02 PM

adding more weight, and something else to fly off.

machining weight out of the top of the chassis is the only way to do it...

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 10:05 PM

i dont think the lexan will weigh as much as the aluminum i can cut off . i know the lines r messy but its just a ruff idea i will measure everything out tomorrow and do it nice ( i hope ) and post pics tomorrow .

**superUEmaxx** · 10-20-2005 10:08 PM

i'd like to see how it works...

if it works more power to you

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-20-2005 10:17 PM

i will keep everyone posted on how it gos . not that anyone else has extra chassis laying around . i got this 1 off ebay for $5 new

**jato2322** · 10-21-2005 12:39 AM

good luck with the fab on this one .... I just want you to prove everyone wrong ...... especially when your trying to help them out. !!

**Jato666** · 10-21-2005 08:39 AM

im gunna get these traxxas rims. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJJ86&P=M
and ill look for any parts on the jato that are replaceable by parts from other trucks.
k1e1v1i1n- lets both do this "diet" our own way, and see who comes out ahead. just a friendly competition. do you have some way to weigh your Jato?

according to traxxas, the Jato weighs 4.72 lbs(75.6 oz). so right now im probably around 70ounces.

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-21-2005 12:23 PM

no i dont but i will find a way just rember when u weight ur truck do it with no fuel and no rims and tires that way we know its even cause we dont have the same tires and rims .

**k1e1v1i1n** · 10-21-2005 01:13 PM

let me just say first off that cutting the chassis is not for everyone this is going to take me more time then i thought after ruffing in the first 4 holes my arm is killing and things were too hot to touch . but its is going , and i think after a few hours i will hav it looking nice here is a preview . just rember that this is ruff work so dont go crazy cause it looks bad thats how this kinda work always gos . well at least when the only tool u have is a dremel .

**The Rosco** · 10-21-2005 09:07 PM

yikes

**Ashalak** · 10-21-2005 09:15 PM

Did you do that or your dog?

**Izze-Racing** · 10-21-2005 09:34 PM

Onebigman is absolutely correct.

In my opinion that was a wrong move kevin, just an opinion.

**Heavy Throttle** · 10-22-2005 03:01 AM

Ditch EZ-Start for Bump Start (You already saved there with the roto start)
Ditch the roll hoop
Ditch the battery box in the rear for the lighter bumper and put battery up mid chassis level
Titanium Buckles AND Titanium Hinge Pins
Alium Front Axles
If you want to lose "A" mud guard lose the exhaust one, the other side protects the switch, harness, and wires running to radio gear.
Run the Traxxas 2.2 Lite Dished Wheels, Front and Rear (Ones used on the Ntro Rustler), TRA1972 and TRA1974
Depending on what and where you run, you can lose quite a bit of tranny weight by dropping down to the single speed, reduces roating mass as well, but I went back with the 2-speed again in the end.

Remember, your losing weight, this goes if your really racing, your suspension will need some tuning, might need lighter oil and lighter springs. I went with 25wt in the rear with silver springs arms sagging, 20wt in the front with yellow springs almost level a bit sag. There are a few other things you can do as well check out slayden's tuning guide. Remember too what works for one person may not work for another.

**OneBigMan647** · 10-22-2005 03:48 AM

It would help if you go out and get some good bits for your dremel.

Sorry but the top/middle carvings look like a carving out of a halloween pumpkin.

..Sorry I just had to say it.

**Izze-Racing** · 10-22-2005 08:55 AM

Originally posted by OneBigMan647
Sorry but the top/middle carvings look like a carving out of a halloween pumpkin.

..Sorry I just had to say it.

Haha let's see here....

**OneBigMan647** · 10-22-2005 09:16 AM

****!

**Heavy Throttle** · 10-22-2005 09:46 AM

Originally posted by Izze-Racing

Haha let's see here....

(Image Sniped Of Pumkin Carving)

OH MY! lol...

**VEN** · 10-22-2005 09:05 PM

k1e1v1i1n1 doesn't post anymore cause he was banned for an unknown reason

**Ian Bowers** · 10-22-2005 09:13 PM

Originally posted by VEN
k1e1v1i1n1 doesn't post anymore cause he was banned for an unknown reason

Looks like he got 25 warning points, the bannination total, usually you get them from minor cusswords, or the such.

And I have to admit, that does look like a pumpkin...

**Hathaway** · 10-24-2005 11:53 AM

WOW... This turned into the funniest thread I've seen in a while. The pumpkin pic was great. However, now we won't be able to see how long it took to fold that chassis in half. I have to give kevin credit for trying though.

**Ken448** · 10-24-2005 04:21 PM

ummm thats just hilarious! I think EVERYONE should do that to their chassis ASAP so Traxxas can sell more replacments!

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