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  1. #41
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. NitroRCracer's Avatar
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    it sure will!
    Im no expert. i just play one on the TRX forums

  2. #42
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    WOW this is a great thread, thanks bro for great info.
    HI, my name is TRJ539 and I,m addicted to R/C!!!!!

  3. #43
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    what are the 6mm teflon washers used for? I didnt see you mention them.
    4908 "slightly modded"

  4. #44
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    Picture #3.
    2 Stampede's, E-Maxx, Extended chassis T-Maxx 3.3

  5. #45
    RC Racer
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy Gunn
    Have you ever tried something in the 50000 diff oil? I'm going to try this mod. I took the stock grease (which was next to nothing) out of my boys buggy and put in some good OFNA Diff Oil and it made a ton of difference. It stopped it from unloading and spinning the right side tires all of the time. She hooks up and goes now. If it helps anywhere close to as much as it did the buggy this will be a big plus.

    Tks for the post bro.... Let me know what you think on the 50000 diff oil.
    I run a spool in the rear diff. Center diff w/100K, and 100K in the front. CVD's all the way around. Aluminum push rods and turnbuckles. Never had any trouble. my troubles are always motor mounts, a-arms, and a receiver- the 2.4Ghz one.
    Last edited by ernestmellis; 12-26-2009 at 12:47 PM.

  6. #46
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    tamxx diff shim

    great how to. its just i have a short attention span.

  7. #47
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    I did this on my older T-Maxx back in 2005, now I have a 3903 will this work on the new diffs? I used these parts:

    HPI Washer 10x12x0.2mm (10)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPA7
    BRP Axle Shim .250x.309x.014" (12)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPM35
    Traxxas Foam Body Washers T-Maxx (10)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSP13
    HPI O-Ring 5x8x1.5mm Savage 21 (6)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLB6

    Not sure if these are the correct teflon washers
    Traxxas Washer Teflon 6x9.5x5 T-Maxx 2.5 (10)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDEA8&P=7
    Last edited by JeepRubicon2k3; 03-26-2010 at 12:59 PM.

  8. #48
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Yes it will still work, the only difference is you will need 8mm shims in addition to the 6mm and 10mm shims.
    Here is a place to get all the shims you need in one place!
    The new style diff have 8mm shoulder on the ring gear and 10mm shoulder on the diff cup.
    On the above site, upper right corner select manufacturer Calandra Racing Concepts, in the search block type in "shim" it will come up with a page with all the shim packs they make.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  9. #49
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    I will be using this thread to shim my E-Revo diff. I figured 30k diff oil front and 50k in rear. Is there anything I need to know or are they very similar?
    xl-5 Stampede
    ERBE Tekin 6s
    ERBE MMM 4/6s

  10. #50
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    i was looking to shim my e-revo diffs too, and im looking to get the gorilla snawt lube, but will i need a slightly not so thick diff lube for the front diff or gorilla snawt all round is that fine?

    or do i need to look at 100k rear and around 50 - 75k front?
    Last edited by Luke1267; 11-03-2010 at 04:31 AM.

  11. #51
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke1267
    i was looking to shim my e-revo diffs too, and im looking to get the gorilla snawt lube, but will i need a slightly not so thick diff lube for the front diff or gorilla snawt all round is that fine?

    or do i need to look at 100k rear and around 50 - 75k front?
    It's better to use the lighter stuff in the rear so you don't spin out under power in the turns, use the heavier oils in the front diffs.

    Take a look at any 1/8th scale sealed diff R/C and check their setup sheets, you will find this to be in most cases the setup.

    That horsie snawt stuff is almost like locking your diffs...
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  12. #52
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    Doesn't the Revo have sealed diffs? If so then don't follow this OP's use of lubricants. It's a little out dated on that part, the shimming is still good and is the main point of this posting.

    Like Nitronaught said thicker up front. But I went with much lower amounts in my UE spyder 8 - I probably should have wrote that down somewhere (30/20 - maybe?). Then for the ring/pinion I put an appropriate amount of Gorilla Snot.
    T-Maxx 2.5/3.3
    Supermaxx 4.6 Under Construction

  13. #53
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    I just tore my ring gear yesterday on my e-revo and need to rebuild....

    To shim on e-revo, do you follow the same guide and is the part oveview needed/the same for shimming an e-revo? Are all parts needed?
    What do you mean with e-revo being sealed? You still open and shim both the spyder gears (inner) and ring gear (outer) part of the diff right?

    Will you recomend using (for rear diff)
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNXJ0&P=7
    Or
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHFT6&P=ML
    Or
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXJ61&P=7
    Or
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZT5&P=7

    Would you shim an original diff or is an upgrade to aluminum diff case highly recomended? If so, any suggestions? And would you still use the original/stock gears?

    A stupid man can ask more than......

    E
    The ERBE viking will never walk alone

  14. #54
    Marshal Double G's Avatar
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    You can follow the same guide, just keep in mind that the internals of the diff are just slightly different in that they have an I-beam and braces and a different cup and the outer case is different; same gears though.
    The E-Revo, Revo and new Maxxs have sealed diffs in that there are gaskets to keep the differential oil inside. Utilize your exploded views. And I would purchase the Traxxas Differential Oil Kit which should pretty much cover all that you need. You could mix the oils and get varying weights too.
    Just stay with the original gearing and original case (just don't overtighten the screws).
    The Super Derecho

  15. #55
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. morganko's Avatar
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    Ttt..........................
    "fat drunk and stupid is no way to go thru life"

  16. #56
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    Hi

    Have just stripped down my diffs and shimmed them till they felt just right, i also put in diff oil as described in the thread above, only problem now is their feels like too much resistance when the car goes forward and backward.
    When i rotate a single wheel it moves smoothly with the opposite wheel spinning, although when i stop turning it by hand it stops virtually straight away with no free spinning.
    If a turn the wheels in pairs or all 4 together there is a lot of resistance and i can hears cogs turning.
    The only other thing i did differently from the above post was use the diff oil my local hobby shop reconmended which states its 10000wt, i packed the diff then assembled it, squeezing the excess oil out the screw holes, have i used a oil that is to heavy, or packed too much oil in ???????????????

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Snook Man's Avatar
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    The 100K oil in the diff cup will make the opposing wheels connected to the diff more
    resistant to spinning opposite of each other compared to a thinner oil.
    The oil in the diff cups has no effect on the rolling resistance of the truck in a straight line.
    Straight line rolling resistance could be due to the ring and pinion gears being shimmed to tightly, very heavy grease in the diff housing or bearings that are worn or not seated in the housing properly. There is no need to pack the differential housing where the ring and pinion mesh, Just a light coating of grease is all that’s needed on the gears.
    You should be able to spin the input pinion with your fingers and the output pinions of the diff cup should all spin nice and smoothly with very little effort.
    No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.

  18. #58
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    Thanks for that, I have just stripped it all down again and realized I shimmed the pinion when it wasn't required which was
    Causing it to bind against the diff casing.
    I live and learn !!!!

  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Nitronaught's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmerv View Post
    Thanks for that, I have just stripped it all down again and realized I shimmed the pinion when it wasn't required which was
    Causing it to bind against the diff casing.
    I live and learn !!!!
    Rule of thumb with shimming any kind of gears/shafts/pinions.... There should be a tiny tiny tiny bit of play, if it feels notchy in any direction or gives resistance to being turned there's too much shim.....

    Overshimming can be worse than not shimming at all. A far as diff cases, if you have the older 2 screw cases upgrade to the newer diff cases with the 4 screws in them or aluminum cases. The older 2 screw cases are notorious for flexing causing the mesh of the pinion and ring to change under load, usually causing the pinion to strip or chip over a short period of time...

    And yeah, it does take a few mistakes sometime to get it dialed in, but a well set of shimmed diffs and tranny makes a much more efficient running machine. I noticed better fuel mileage when I put good bearings and shimmed my diffs and tranny when needed.... I think I gained about an entire 40 seconds of run time on the track (that's a lot on a track) by shimming, and my diffs never failed afterwards.... Never... Tear them down every 8 gallons....
    Founder of H.U.A.
    Hop Ups Anonymous

  20. #60
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    sorry for this noob question but what does shimming the diffs do??

  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 08kgraves's Avatar
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    havent read any of this thread but what shimming diffs normally eliminates the excess freeplay so that its less likely to deflect under a load and break the differential gears.
    there's no life like a LOW LIFE!
    Drag It!

  22. #62
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    okay I am having trouble finding the 6mm shimms. The links are not good anymore. Can someone lend a hand please.

  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. fantomaxx's Avatar
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    Tons on ebay!!
    454 bb maxx

  24. #64
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    still alive

  25. #65
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    My erevo rear diff was clicking so I used this thread today, thx.

    Couple things I noted for others.

    1. You might not need to shim. I wanted to do my front diff, but it was fine. There was no play at all, so no need to shim. Don't just shim cause others do it, sometimes the mesh is perfect stock

    2. Someone said earlier that you shouldn't grease the ring gear and pinion which imo is not true. The revs of the pinion is unreal, you need somekind of lube/grease in the mesh to ease the heat/friction. I used the 50k oil in mine and I just put a thin bead of it around the ring gear then spin it to mesh with the pinion as its pretty much as thick as any gear grease.

    3. Lots of my oil leaks when I fasten down the ring gear. Maybe I put too much in the cup, but more is better than less.

    4. Don't be surprised if you take apart your diffs and they are empty. As good as I thought I filled and sealed them last time, mine were empty. I guess some will always leak cause they are always moving parts. I know its the same for the merv.

  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    A high quality auto grease will do for the R&P, Mobil 1 synthetic is what I use for my 1:1 so I use it as it's what I have on hand.

    The fluid being pushed out when tightening the ring gear down is normal if you fill the cup up to the edge with fluid.

    I normally do diff maintenance every 1~2 gallons depending if they are leaking excessively.
    If it's leaking more then normal then I get new seals & cup.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  27. #67
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    ok...can someone update this thread...the new erbe diffs...does it still take the same 6mm and 10mm shims?...and the shims...they make them in all different sizes...some are 6mm inner and 8mm outer....some are 6mm inner...and 10mm outer...which one is the correct ones to get?...

    same question goes for the 10mm and the 6mm teflon washer...

    can someone help update this method?

  28. #68
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Wildman4910's Avatar
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    Look at the bearings on the exploded view for the diff, they have the bearing size right under the part number & that is the size shims you need.

    6mm I.D. shims for the pinion & outputs
    8mm I.D. shims for the Ring gear side
    10mm I.D. shims for the cup side
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

    LiPo? Naw NITRO!!

  29. #69
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    keeping it alive. plan on doing this to all my diffs. converted t-maxx, summit, my sons wacked out e-revo.

  30. #70
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    Great post! As far as lube for the spider gears, in the rear, I use plumbers putty. Makes a good, cheap, spool effect. For general bashing I like to be able to steer the back end with the throttle! For the front I use plumbers putty mixed with oil to lighten up the viscosity ( or lack there of!) to the desired texture to make a good tight diff action. Keeping the outside tire engaged in the process when the weight comes off the inside one (allowing it to basically spin free with the stock set up) really helps pull it through tight turns! Call me crazy, but I like it this way! As far as ring and pinion lube I just use automotive bearing grease. Works great!
    Desmosedici RR

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