14 turn motor what will break

[William H]

What will I need to upgrade to run a 14 turn motor on a stock stampede with a upgraded esc.

[Col. Mustard]

Well, a wide front bumper maybe? Really though, nothing. Enjoy your motor untill something breaks (If you have an ESC that can handle 14 turn that is. You might wanna try an aluminum idler and a motor plat so you can mesh the gears properly, but you don't needanything else to run it)

[batjerk]

You will need a twelve tooth pinion. Otherwise, you'll burn up your electrics.

[William H]

thanks I was worried the whole trans would fall apart.

[Salt-peder]

If you lock the slipper clutch all the way down (so you can do better wheelies) you will probably strip the diff. gear after some time. THis is also assuming you already have traded the plastic idler gear for an aluminum one.

I love the wheelies, but I am on my 4th or 5th diff gear ... it just won't pull the same wheelie without the slipper locked down (or close to it), so I bear the consequences of having to rebuild the trans all the time.

In my mind, what you tear up is probably a direct reflection of the operator/ mechanic of the pede.

[Cruiser]

Originally posted by Salt-peder
I love the wheelies, but I am on my 4th or 5th diff gear ... it just won't pull the same wheelie without the slipper locked down (or close to it), so I bear the consequences of having to rebuild the trans all the time.

The last time I ran with my slipper locked down, I stripped the hexes in my wheels ... not the hex nut itself, but the hex part of my wheels that fit onto the hex nut. They started out as a hex, and ended up being a circle. I had no idea why my axels were turning freely even though I did not hear anything strip.

I've loosened it up since then, but you are right, the wheelies are great!

[Red01MustangGT]

Salt, have you tried the ball diff? Do you think that would hold up better?

[stampede720]

Originally posted by Red01MustangGT
Salt, have you tried the ball diff? Do you think that would hold up better?

I'm not Salt, but they're expensive, and they're weaker. Even if I was racing my 'Pede, I think I'd keep the gear diff and use different weight greases/oils.

If you keep the slipper adjusted properly and drive like you have some inkling of sense (I know, it's hard for all of us), you shouldn't strip gears very often.

[newfrontier45]

Originally posted by stampede720
..... and drive like you have some inkling of sense.......you shouldn't strip gears very often.

This must be why I keep stripping spurs!?!

[stampede720]

Originally posted by newfrontier45
This must be why I keep stripping spurs!?!

Like I said, it's hard for all of us.

[Red01MustangGT]

yea, driving like I have sense is less fun anyway.

[Salt-peder]

I had looked at getting the steel diff. from www.coldfusionracing.com/ (their site is under construction right now). Swami recommended against it and said that it was too heavy for brushed motors, he even said it would be overkill for the SS 5800. As many diffs. as I am going through now, I may have to try a performance loss once I go to brushless (which may be the same as just loosening the slipper, huh?!?).

From what I understand, the ball diff. is for racing only and does not add any more strength to the assembly.

The diff is cheap, it is just tough to get to - I would rather break any other part on the pede ... maybe my hand will stop crankin' that slipper down all they way ... maybe not.

and drive like you have some inkling of sense (I know, it's hard for all of us), you shouldn't strip gears very often.

- hehehe ... I got the truck to enjoy, but there is a happy medium somewhere between working on the truck all the time and having it running well so you can use it. So far it seems I have no sense when running the truck

[Swami]

Originally posted by Salt-peder I love the wheelies, but I am on my 4th or 5th diff gear ... it just won't pull the same wheelie without the slipper locked down (or close to it), so I bear the consequences of having to rebuild the trans all the time.[/B]

Have you examined your idler gear? As I have said before, its really hard to tell if they are worn out. You have to clean it up, and compare it to a brand new one to tell really.

If the flats are worn off of the gear teeth, its going to start shredding diffs.

[Salt-peder]

Yea, I've replaced the idler. I have also gotten better about checking ALL parts very well for the little pieces of the diff gear after it strips - don't think I got them all cleaned out one time and the diff stripped real quick.

Even when it looks clean, the top gear and idler gear may still have a small piece of the diff teeth hung up. I now take a pocketknife and gently scrape every gear tooth. It seems I always find 1 or 2 (or more) pieces that I coudn't see.

I am currently building a second tranny as a spare (forgot the slipper plates on the first order). I was hoping that the new tranny halves would fit better than my original, but they did not. I still have that annoying gap on the front of the tranny. Looks like the Traxxas mold is a little warped. I was able to trim some excess plastic from the tranny edges (left over from manufacturing, not cutting into the tranny). This helped a little, but there is still a gap. I have been worried that when assembling the tranny, this gap causes the gear alignment to be out a little, causing early diff failure. ... just a thought ...

[Swami]

could be. Out of the 10 or so trannies I've used (due to arm mount breakages), I've never had one that I thought screwed up the gear mesh, although I admit it could be hard to tell.

Sometimes when I need new tranny halves I go through all the ones on the shelf at the LHS so I can pick the straightest looking ones.

Or I COULD get off my tush and design that new aluminum tranny that people ask about every once in a while. It would probably be less expensive than the steel diff which is multiple pieces...

Swami

[stampede720]

Originally posted by Swami
Or I COULD get off my tush and design that new aluminum tranny that people ask about every once in a while. It would probably be less expensive than the steel diff which is multiple pieces...

OK, teasing us like that is just cold.

If you could keep it at ~$50 or less, I'd say you would sell quite a few of them. I know at least one person who would like to buy one...

[Salt-peder]

If you had the al. tranny and the cold fusion diff, what would be the next weak link to go? The gears inside the diff?

I've done the dogbone conversion so the only plastic currently left in the system is the diff and the plastic hex wheel mount/plastic wheels.

The plastic hex wheel mount is easy enough to replace, I'm not suggesting that I would change it - you need a "shear pin" in the system somewhere.

.... jumping on asphalt doesn't help diff. life either - I've about stopped doing that! ... about

[Swami]

I know of two other people talking about making them. I'd be more gung-ho if I thought I could have a monopoly for at least the first order.

The way these things go, you never know when someone is just going to go and do it. Or not.... lol

Swami