think im buying a new rustler

[Phantez]

Youve probably already read about me buying a used rustler, but i think if i get one, it would be smarter to buy one new. Thing is, i dont know diddly about nitro RC's. Heres a few questions

1. Wheres the cheapest web site to buy Nitro Rustlers?
2. Can someone give me a shopping cart of stuff to get off towerhobbies to get me up and running right away before i go...
"wait a minute, i forgot to get one of these" I also wanna see the total before i end up with an unexpected empty wallet (i think i only want 1 gallon of gas to start of whatever fuel is best for the engine)
3. How exactly do i break in an engine?
4. I think i would want to get a failsafe right away before i get a runaway with my new truck! Whats a good one thats really light? (Im gunna be racing this truck!)
5. What exactly do i have to do after a session to the engine to keep it running good for a long time?
6. Ive read for the tmaxx that you have to clean the air filter every hour of running, im guessing most dont do this because they're having to much fun, but does it also have to be done to the rustler? if so, does it make a difference if i clean it every hour or if i clean after a 3 hour session?
7. What batteries do i need to use? How long do they last before they need to be recharged?

I think thats everything. I know its alot, but thanks if advance for you're help! Ill post if i think of any more.

[Head-Hunter]

1. www.towerhobbies.com
2. 20% nitro fuel ( i pefer blue thunder but tower doesnt carry it), fuel filter, fail safe, throttle return spring(optional), new rear tires(the stocks dont last past the break in), after run oil(or wd-40), another rear shock tower(the stock ones break easily)
3. the rustler comes with a card on the fuel tank that explains the break-in
4. the Venom failsafe is the best IMO, but if you want small and light then the ofna failsafe is the way to go
5. do the after run presedure. (its all explained in the manual)
6. it really depends on the conditions your in. if it is extrealy dusty then i would clean the filter. or you can go with a motor saver air filter whch will allow you do not have to cleen it very offten and gives you more performance
7. either 4 AA which will last a few hours or a reciver pack. i recomend a reciver pack. they hold a charge much better, longer, and stronger. they will hold nearly a full charger till they need to be charged. also if you go this route then i recomend This One

hope this helps

[Phantez]

ok, heres my shoppoing cart. Tell me if theres something i still need to get and if something on here doesnt work (after run oil and fuel filter??) http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wto0149p

if that doesnt work then here it is:

Traxxas Nitro Rustler RTR w/Radio A5 27195
Accessories Needed Combo Available
1 289.99
LXJM38 Traxxas Top Fuel 20% Quart

A 4 7.99
LXVH19 DuraTrax Clean-Flow Fuel Filter

1 5.99
LXL391 Hobbico After Run Engine Oil 2 oz.

1 2.29
LXEYG2 Ofna Micro Fail Safe Unit

1 19.99
Sub-Totals: In-Stock Items: $350.22
Back Orders: $ .00
Combined: $350.22

BTW i have 4 quarts of fuel, not one. I think its dumb how you cant buy a single gallon off tower

Thanks head hunter!

[Head-Hunter]

no problem.

btw. dont forget tires

[Phantez]

alright, thought of some more questions

I hear so much about the glow plugs in the tmaxx's going bad, is it the same for the rustlers?

If its so important to get new rear tires then what should i get. Im going to have a race track in my back yard, (WOOPEE! ) and the dirt is just gunna be regular dug up dirt from where we are digging our basement of our new house, so its probably gunna be pretty loose, but after a while of working a groove into it, it'll probably gunna pack down really hard in some areas and still be pretty loose in others. What tires should i get? Im thinking about the Fuzzie T. Can i have a link if they'res something better? What about for the road, what should i get for that?

[Unbreakable207]

Glow plug problem? not that I know of, only if you run too lean or way to rich. Tune the bugger and you wont have to worry.

Glads sounds great for the surface your talking about.

[Head-Hunter]

the glow plugs do have a tendency to last to the end of the break-in and then die due to the extreamly rich stock settings. it would probaly be a good idea to get one or two more.

as for tires. i would say go with pro-line gladiators. they work great in loose or hard packed dirt and they also last on street so you wont have to worry about them if you decide to go street driving.

[Phantez]

what about for hard packed dirt only? What tires should i get then?

[Head-Hunter]

then either fuzzy "t"s or bow-ties. both by pro-line

[Phantez]

ok, i think id get either the bow ties or the glads. whats the difference between the m1 and m2 etc....?

[Head-Hunter]

there is no M1.
M2 = hardest, longest lasting, less grip
M3 = medium, medium lasting, medium grip
R3 = softest. shortest lasting. best grip

[Phantez]

what clutch bell do i need to get it running 50+ mph?

Would my MIP CVD shafts from my emaxx fit on the rustler?

[Head-Hunter]

22t CB

no the e-maxx ones will not work. they are too long.

[Phantez]

btw, how long ago did the rustlers come out. I really dont want to buy a brand new rustler and have it go vintage the next month. lol.

[Head-Hunter]

the first rusty came out in 1997
the first 2.5 rusty came out in 2003

[Big_Truck]

My 1st nitro (T-Maxx) was used. It came with some problems like a cracked carb and others. It was hard to learn how to tune when you don't know what you're doing, but the point is I learned how to tune (with the help from ppl who use to visit here and other boards). I see alot of ppl that still don't know to tune cause they either don't listen to their engines or whatever.

If you can find a good deal on a used rusty (like I did) then buy it, but if you feel better about buying new than you can do that too. It's up to you, I'm just letting you know that its OK to buy used.

[Rusty_Noob]

Rustlers will be around as long as I am

[Phantez]

how many quarts of fuel does it take to break in the engine? Then how many quarts would i need to get me like 4 hours of driving or so?

[nitroracer87]

you can get by breaking in the engine with 1 quart but you wont have alot to play with after

[Head-Hunter]

i say go for the gallon. ive never bought a quart in my life because i use a gallon in a week or less (more then one car being used)

[Phantez]

if i get a pull starter, do i still need the 6 cell battery for anything? or would it just be the 12 AA's then?

[Head-Hunter]

nope. no need for it then. but i would still get one anyway. its always a good thing to have as a backup if you break your pullstart

[k-vette]

Just remember you'll still have to carry a glow plug igniter around.

[Phantez]

that alright, it probably isnt as bulky and heavy and the ez start 2

[Head-Hunter]

lol. nope. the one i have weighs half as much or less and its much smaller. not to mention your droping a conciderable amount of weight on the rusty

[All The Way]

I recommend a motor saver air filter (KEEP IT OILED AND CLEAN)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDAN9&P=7
not sure what size the 2.5 carb is though...I have the .15
for a fail safe, a spring is more reliable....will always work if there is no power. Trust me on this one
I don't recommend any ez start or pull start... dead weight and more to go wrong....buy a back plate and buy a starter box
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXAXU2

Tires I use all of these all work good
For dirt
Tires: Front: Pro-Line M3 Blade
Rear:
Pro-Line Hole Shot Truck Tire M2.... hard dirt, tacky(clay) or low dust
Pro-Line M2 Truck Bowtie Tire........ good for all conditions around
Pro-Line M3 Gladiator.... Traction on dry dusty very loose conditions
Asphalt All 4 tires
Pro-Line Road Hawg II
or Pro-Line Speed Hawg II

What not to get
Dirt Hawgs........there good for looks that's about it

[Phantez]

is the rustler as hard to tune than the tmaxx? I look at the tmaxx forum and its all "It doesnt start" "Dies in 3 mintues" "dies at WOT" etc...

[Phantez]

Double post

[TheFastest1inMI]

It has the same motor. I personly had no trouble tuning both my 2.5's. The DVD and owners manual you get with traxxas products are the best and have everything you would need. Also you have these fourms to help you out. And if none of that works traxxas's help lines are also super good. Traxxas has always been super good with providing help for the products they sell. I have been buying their products for 10 years.

[Phantez]

i didnt think the rustler came with the DVD, i thought that was only the T-Maxx.

How long does the engine last if it is properly maintained. How bout if its somewhat maintained, or completly ingnored by maintenince?

Dont you need to rebuild the engine every so often? WHat do i need to buy? How much does it cost?

[Head-Hunter]

the rustler comes with a dvd. they use a t-maxx in it but its the same process.

the engine will last a long time if it is taken care of. ive got probaly 6 or 7 gallons threw one of my engines and it has now taken a turn for the worse. its dead and a fr.18 will be taking its place

[Phantez]

Double post*

Sorry my internet it getting slow and it just doesnt want to load up right so after a couple minutes i hit stop then i hit post again and it loads real fast and it comes up with 2 posts.

[Head-Hunter]

ooops

[TheFastest1inMI]

Its no big deal.

[Phantez]

Originally posted by Head-Hunter
the rustler comes with a dvd. they use a t-maxx in it but its the same process.

the engine will last a long time if it is taken care of. ive got probaly 6 or 7 gallons threw one of my engines and it has now taken a turn for the worse. its dead and a fr.18 will be taking its place

does the engine HAVE to be replaced or is there something cheaper i can do when my engine wears out? Is that what the rebuild kit is for?

[Head-Hunter]

you can send it back to traxxas along with $100 when it wears out and then you get a new one. or you can buy a new pistion and sleeve for $60 or a sirio piston and sleeve for $70

[Phantez]

jeeze, thats getting expencive! How long does it take to go thru 5-6 gallons if i only run maybe 6 or so tanks a week just under normal bashing conditions? just for an idea of engine life

[Phantez]

anyone?????

[leptar]

I think you can get about 50+ tanks if your don't fill to rim and spill for the rusty out of a gallon...
since i did around 12 or 14 out of a quart... I used 6 tanks the day I broke the engine in and 6 or 7 the next day with about 1/4 tank left in the bottle it could have been 1 or 2 tanks more... I really wasn't keeping track.. There is about 3,785 CC to 1 US gallon and the nitro rusty tank holds about 88CC so that comes to around 44 full tank fills. I never filled my tanks to the top...

I don't like the ofna fail safe at all.. do yourself a favor and get the dynamite fail safe... it's small and light also the last 3 i've seen right out of the package were perfect for the rusty without any re-programming... around $26

I'd get a RX pack perferably size 2/3 5cell packs in a 3X2 hump config with atleast 2000mah don't go by the 4 AA's and expect it to last 2 hours... I've sometimes gone thru 8 in 2 hours all depends on the driving... around $15

I'm using the MC-8 glow plugs... nice plugs but you'll need a good glow starter like the Dynamite Dyna-Glow.. around $30..

I'm also using blue thunder racing fuel 20%... it's good stuff and it won't let you run too dangerously lean either because it will stall on you.. around $28 a gallon

RC-parts bell cranks... I've heard good things about them and I ordered a set pre-loaded with bearings... $24.00 I also did thier springs for my pede and i'm happy with them so I ordered a set for the rusty.. $7.00

You'll also want to get another set of rear rims and get some good foam inserts with some dirt hawg tires for the rear

and Blade M2's for the front.. since all your going to be doing is bashing... The stub tires are ok.. but wear out way way way too fast.... also you'll want to look up tire ballooning before glueing the tires... someone had a trick with medical tape... I did the good foams... forgot the model they still balloon but thats only when I'm getting one wheel action at WOT...

RPM front bumper $7.00 who cares if it makes the rusty look different... it will save you $$ in the long run.. nothing like hitting a tree or pole at a good clip and having your rusty deflect or watching the bumper absorb the impact....

pull the glow plug out at the end of the day and put in a couple of drops of after run or last run oil, put the glow plug back in and pull the pull start a few times WITHOUT the glow starter!!!! this will coat the internals...

for a good breakin.. 5 tanks... run the first 2 at just a little more then idle... maybe 5mph or so... at the end of the tank let the engine cool in the house.. refill and repeat.. on the third tank you'll want to reset the idle to normal operations and then no more the 1/4 throttle.. if you notice your muffler filling with oil just tap the throttle quickly to push the residue out... on the 4th tank take it up a notch and don't pass 1/2 throttle also don't hold it there either but don't make any more then 1/4 turn adjustment to your high idle screw... let it cool down and go eat something... the 5th tank either 1/4 or 1/2 of the way thru you should start to notice your engine running differently still don't WOT yet.. If you notice your compression increase loosen the glow plug a bit maybe 1/8 of a turn it might be some burnt oil on the piston head. loosening it will allow more nitro to pass unburnt and with a good chance of it flushing out the exhaust port. don't run it like this for more then10 - 15 seconds MAX or you will have a mess.

Make your tuning adjustments to suit your environment.
The 2.5 will last you a while if properly maintained I spoke with the guys at the LHS and the above info is still fresh in my head... I asked about the 2.5 because my current engine is giving me heartache... they told me depends on the person... you can get 1 - 2 gallons if you don't care about your stuff or they know 2 guys that have over 12 gallons each in theirs.. one's a 2.5 rusty and the other is a 2.5 t-maxx..

As far as hearing about it dies this. and dies that... if your carb isn't tuned properly for the temp out side and you WOT you can either run it lean or rich... most of the time it's for the rich.. and when you have a red hot glow plug and it gets a splashed with cooler nitro something is bound to happen especially if it all doesn't get burned... Most of the time it's a little junk and they are using a C or D cell glow starter which doesn't have the umph to get all them coils cherry as was one of the cases with me.

I've went the cheap route and now i'm rebuying almost everything I should have bought the first time around... Sometimes cutting corners isn't the best thing you can do....

I'm just passing on info I learned in the last 2 days... if i've made an error someone who knows please correct me..

[All The Way]

if your racing you could go through that in a short period of time.
in the last 5 weeks(6 days of racing) I've gone through about 2 gal...would have been more but bad weather has killed us up this way
I races 2 days a week in one class
for somone just running for fun 1 gal should last ya 3 to 4 months
hope that helps