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  1. #1
    coolcarkid01
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    What Should I Upgrade Second

    What should i upgrade second i already got new steering servo

  2. #2
    RC Champion
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    Dec 2001
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    CT
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    Rpm shock towers? that was what I broke...
    E-maxx-Nemesis 10L powered

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    The REAL Orange County
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    Wait to see what you break first.

    Is there anything about the truck you don't like?
    Lynn Dimick

    It's never done that before.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
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    Mar 2004
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    www.greatpacks.com
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    depending on what terrain you drive: stiffer springs.
    Too Slow
    "whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford

  5. #5
    coolcarkid01
    Guest
    NO I LOVE MY TRUCK. I was looking at the integy piggybacks or should i get the new pro line ones? I make about 50 a week. I work for my parents.

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Tennesee, knoxville
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    225
    i like my bigbores, there as durable as piggybacks, i really couldnt tell a diffrance between mine and my friends piggybacks...but the pro-lines are a whole new story, if you get shocktowers get some knuckle head towers (UE)
    BPP torpedo RPM a arm RPM bumpers RPM shocktowers mip cvds jaco foams soon to come feiago 9L warrior 9918 (as soon as i sell my schumacher mi2)

  7. #7
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    ms
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    125
    CVD's!!!
    Traxxas Stampede - 15T Titanite/Duratrax I-Speed 12T, M2K's, customer skids, bearings, etc... - It's fixed! Traxxas Rustler - Novak SS5800 Combo, Bowties, bearings, etc...
    Traxxas 4-Tec - Hacker Master Car Sport/C40 8S, bearings, Aluminum Pulleys, Rally 200mm Conversion, etc...
    Traxxas E-Maxx - Pretty much stock, ball bearing steering upgrade, dual servo steering WIP...

  8. #8
    coolcarkid01
    Guest
    What exactly are cvd's??? Im new cant you tell

  9. #9
    Banned by Warnings
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Columbus,Ohio
    Posts
    344
    you dont need cvd's you just need to beef your your stock drive shafts.

    all you need is 2 pr of outer drive shafts, then cut them so that when you slide the new section on it covers the exposed inner axle.

    then get some wooden dowel (long piece of round wood) and some epoxy and glue the dowel into the hole in the inner shaft.

    if you dont drive like an absoluet maniac they will hold up for a long time, mine have been holding up to my racing for about a month now and they have held up fine. No need for CVDs, spend that money on alu diff cups that use 3mm screws. after that there isnt much thats weak on the truck.

    ~Alex

  10. #10
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Hjørungavåg, Norway
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    If you're a basher, I recommend (in order):

    1. RPM arms, esp in the front. cost is around 40-45. These almost never break (I have never broken one, and I've broken most parts). RPM parts in general are very good and very hard to break, but remain low in cost.

    2. Do your own body, you'll be surprised how much fun this is, and what a sense of ownership it creates for your truck.

    3. Bigbore shocks. They are great and very low cost (compared to other hopup shocks, like the piggybacks). Very strong.

    4. If you don't have good batteries (or even if you do), it's always fun to have a few more of those laying about.

    5. If you break a bulkhead, try and get some AL ones. They are expensive, though. 40-80 for the fronts or rears.

    6. Other worthy upgrades would be CVDs, but they are expensive. Wait until you break a driveline. Your rears will go first, and it's probably good enough to only replace the rears.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    ms
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    125
    Yep, I killed my rear shafts first. I then took the front shafts off and put them on the rear to use until my CVD's came in. In two days of fairly easy driving, I had twisted those pretty badly. When I got my CVD's, I checked out the center shafts and the rear was almost twisted in two :-) Sliders are a great design, but just not quite durable enough for me ;-)
    Traxxas Stampede - 15T Titanite/Duratrax I-Speed 12T, M2K's, customer skids, bearings, etc... - It's fixed! Traxxas Rustler - Novak SS5800 Combo, Bowties, bearings, etc...
    Traxxas 4-Tec - Hacker Master Car Sport/C40 8S, bearings, Aluminum Pulleys, Rally 200mm Conversion, etc...
    Traxxas E-Maxx - Pretty much stock, ball bearing steering upgrade, dual servo steering WIP...

  12. #12
    Tervuren
    Guest
    I highly recommend against putting anything Integy on your truck. Best shocks are either Traxxas big bores or Unlimited Engineering's shocks.

    If you go with the UE route though, you will also need to change to a shocktower that will give you more adjustibility to allow for the larger shock, I recommend getting the UE shocktowers anyway, great to have on the truck, can slam it down to ground, raise it up, etc.

  13. #13
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    The REAL Orange County
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    247
    Originally posted by Tervuren
    I highly recommend against putting anything Integy on your truck.
    ME TOO!!!!

    If you want to upgrade shocks do not go with the piggybacks. For the extra 30% the prolines cost they are 150& better. I did not notice a great dela of difference bwetween the stock shocks and the Integy.

    The drive link is another place to look. I run stock and still managed to twist them. Part of the solution is to loosen the slipper to specifrications. Contrary to other posts here I have had no problems with my Robinson slipper. I do kep it tight though. My stock slipper fired within an hour of buying it.
    Lynn Dimick

    It's never done that before.

  14. #14
    coolcarkid01
    Guest
    Could you send me a link to some rpm things somewhere

  15. #15
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    The REAL Orange County
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    247
    Sure

    http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/

    Most LHS will carry RPM parts.
    Lynn Dimick

    It's never done that before.

  16. #16
    RC Champion newfrontier45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Orlando area
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    2,677
    The Hitec 645 is a good first upgrade. I'd wait and see what you get into a habit of breaking. Some people break bulkheads, some break arms, some twist axles, some break everything else. I never broke an arm but went through several bulkheads and center driveshafts before going to GA bulks and MIP CVD's.

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