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  1. #1
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    engine, and wheel problems

    First of all i am having so problems tuning my engine. The temps are about 50 degrees and it seems to be running to lean. the engine overheats. but when i richin in (which i hope is clockwise) it seems to be too rich and i can never get it right. anyone know what might be wrong? also my back wheels wobble alot. u can tell while its driving. i think its my rear barring carriers. but its really making the car hard to control. anyone know how to fix this too? Thanks for everything.

    Kyle

  2. #2
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    hey ur supposed counter-clockwise. try that and i bet you it will run fine. you may have risked ur engine life by running it lean. so good luck.
    Its not the looks that count its whats under the hood that counts.
    Proud owner of: 2.5 Rustler

  3. #3
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    so counter-clockwise it to richen it? i tryed lookin in the manual but it just says to richen it turn needle 1/4 turn, but it didnt say what way. i only went through 1 tank of gas like this.

  4. #4
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    yeah counter clockwise is to richen it. try this for tuning http://www.traxxas.com/support/pub/trx_sl_tuning25.htm
    Its not the looks that count its whats under the hood that counts.
    Proud owner of: 2.5 Rustler

  5. #5
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    thanks for that link. its just that i havent tuned my engine in awhile i forgot which way is what. but does anybody know what might be wrong with my back wheels? when its coasting its like wobbling.

  6. #6
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    Hrmm...

    Tighten all the screws on the reat A-Arms (and tighten the screws under the chassis that hold the A-Arms mounts). MY A-ARms moutn screws come undone alot. Your bearings might be shot but they are pretty cheap to replace.
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  7. #7
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    If i had to replace them what bearings would i get? and my a-arm mounts come loose a lot too. but my tires look wierd. you know how they have like toe built into the a-arms and mounts or somthin like that? well one wheel looks more bent in then the other. how would this be fixed?

  8. #8
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    Hrmm...

    You just need new A-arms and Caster blocks. After a while, this stuff starts to flex and bend just from wear so it causes your wheels to be missaligned. The bearings I think are 5x11. They are inside of the axle carriers. Just take one of the bearings with you to go get some new ones. Bocca bearings are best but Ive been running Duratrax bearings for a year now (all around and in the tranny also) and every one of them is still holding up fine with no wobble, and I noticed increased performance over the bushings.
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  9. #9
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    well i dont think i need new a-arms or mounts since i just got new ones from RD racing. but those duratrax bearing sound good. will those fit in my original bearing carrier? and do u have a link to them? Thanks

    Kyle

  10. #10
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    were you by any chance driving on a wet surface or snow? if the foam inserts get wet they stay wet for a long time and that can offset the weight greatly. happened to my friends tmaxx, he would go trekkin through puddles and the day after the thing would wobble like crazy, may wanna check that if you were driving when it was wet out. also are your tires on properly? is the bead in the slot on the rim in every place?

  11. #11
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    the tires are all on the rim. the bead slot is in the rim in all palces. but i dont usually drive in wet weather. the street maybe a little wet but no standing water or puddles in it. so i dont think thats the problem unless i have a whole in my tire. But it seems the whole wheel and bearing carriers wobble too.

  12. #12
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    My wheels wobble a little when the black hex nuts that go into the inside of the wheel wear out .

  13. #13
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    Hrmm...

    Yeah you might need new A-arms and Carriers if you are still running plastic. I would suggest for you to get the al Arms and leave the Carriers plastic. And in case of a bad wreck, the carriers would break instead of bending all the aluminum. But your problem is prolly worn plastic or maybe a blown bearing or two.
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  14. #14
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    ok so i dont want to get alum bearing carriers? and do u have a link to those duratrax bearings since i was thinking about getting those if they have lasted a year for you. but will those fit the stock bearing carriers?

  15. #15
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    Hrmm...

    I guess go to www.duratrax.com I got mine from my LHS for like 16 bucks, they were a good deal. They are still gonig strong. And I think all 4 wheels use two 5x11 bearigns each (two inside each front wheel, two inside each rare carrier). Im pretty sure they are already in the tranny so that is taken care of.

    The bearigns are teflon sealed but the stainless ones are prety good also. (Im kinda ghetto so like half my bearings are stainless from my old electric Bandit lol). They both work fine, but sometimes the teflon seal comes off so Id say just get the stainless ones if you can. You will need 8 5x11 stainless bearings.
    Last edited by Po' Rustla; 11-23-2003 at 06:06 PM.
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