why does everyone hate this part??

[NitroRCracer]

0 degree rear axle carriers....

why does everyone hate them? ppl always say "oh my car handled real bad" or "all they do is make u spin out"

i installed the 0 degree FRONT lower suspension mount, and found the steering response was so much better that i will not go back to the stock 3 degree unit..

yesterday i thort i would try out my new 0 degree rear axle carriers, and i loved them aswell !!
just by taking the same smooth racing line, my car turned in so much tighter, and my rear tyre wear was not as severe, they are brilliant.. my 1.5' rears are now resigned to my toolbox for spares, along side the front lower susp. mount, i just hope i never need them stock ones again..

i found my car wasnt spinning out or losing control unless i drove like a rookie, and "threw" it into a corner, and only then did the car slide out..

i have found both these parts to be well worth the investment, and only affected my cars handling very slightly... it was no where near as dramatic as everyone on these forums say..

maybe i just like the crusty parts, or maybe its because of my foams + suspension setup.. i have no idea?

[h22ah]

i think your foams might be the reason yours handles so well.....i couldn't even go straight on the trottle without the rear sliding around....i swithed back to the 1.5's and it won't swing out......same tires and same conditions....i had some take-off slicks on new asaphlt.....i really had a hard time checking for tweek and bent parts until i noticed the zero degree rears.......i wonder if having the zero front and the zero rears together helps????

[NitroRCracer]

yes, i did wonder if having both 0 degree rear axle carriers AND 0 degree front lower suspension mount helped..

[one_banger]

maybe
can u tell me how much the zero degree front carries cost and part #

[NitroRCracer]

there is no 0 degree axle carrier for the front
its a 0 degree lower suspension mount for the front..

0° LOWER SUSPENSION MOUNTS: Suspension Mounts, Lower (00)
Installing the 0-degree front suspension arm mount in place of the stock 3-degree arm mount will provide 0-degrees of front kick up. Dive or anti-dive characteristics can be selected depending on whether or not you use the optional reactive caster wedges installed under the upper suspension mount.


Part #4329 00-Degree Lower Arm Mount (zero kick up)
Suggested retail price $2.50

i paid about $8 AUS for this part, very cheap and one of my favourite parts because of the added steering response + cornering stability (in the front end)

[RCX]

I use the 0 degree front as well and really like it, never tried the 0 degree rear though, maybe its something ill try since you say it works nicely

[one_banger]

Dive or anti-dive ???

[h22ah]

is there a way to check which front i have without tearing the front end apart......in my box of parts i have both the 0 and the 3 degree front mount

[NitroRCracer]

unfortunately u need to remove it to see the 0 or 3 marked on it..

[h22ah]

that's what i was afraid of.....i guess that's tommorows project..

[terry]

You have the right suspension setup and the right tires, combined with a decent racing surface. That is why it's working so well. The front carriers are probably great with good tires. I've always thought that the car had a little too much caster with the extra kick-up anyway. The rear needs really good bite in order to get the 0 degree carriers to work. You are trying to get the car to stay planted at probably the worst traction area there is (the end of a long high speed straight choking down to a turn.) We have a sweeper at the end of our straight, but it's not huge and it still requires you to scrub some speed to get through the corner. And since foams don't work well on our surface, you have to be more conscious of how much rear traction you can lose. With a big sweeper and foams, you can probably coast into the corner fairly quickly and roll onto the throttle again with excellent results. The only reason I discourage people from getting the rear carriers, is that most people here are just bashing, with insufficient tire traction to begin with, and they think that the carriers are going to fix that. They won't, they will make it worse. You need lots of tire traction first, then you can start fine tuning with carriers, reducing caster, stiffening chassis, etc.

[NitroRCracer]

our track layout, including pits + driverstand
the only place i dab the brake is the hairpin leading onto main straight..
the gear diff's slow me enough off throttle thru the rest of the corners

[Ohio-Nitro4-Tec]

what is the best suspenion set up for parking lot and street racing for the nitro 4-tec?

[DeanB500]

Weve been thru this loadsa time, but just for you, once more

There is no perfect setup or whatever, each driver treats and drives the car differently so each set up will need to be different.

I hardly ever race and when i do its against complete novices that wont move their carbs off break-in incase they mess it up. So my set up doesnt need to be fine tuned down to the nanosecond of laptimes as im sure terry's is

My set up for a quick bash here and there:

40wt oil all round

2 - hole pistons all round

Yellow - soft - front (powerline springs)

Black - firm - Rear (stock springs)

0 degree rears (for a nice bit of drift )

2 degree camber all round

0 degree toe all round

caster clips to rear of car

rear sway bars on softest setting (no front)

engine leaned out 1/4 from break in for good performance but not excessive wear on the engine

Gear changes at mid powerband for decent accelleration and short distance top speeds

Optional spur gears, stock bell gears


Anyone can feel free to make recomendations onto how i can make my car more stable or whatever

Hope that helps

Dean

[Ohio-Nitro4-Tec]

ok, i just wanted to know because my car doesn't stay straight from half throttle on up to wide open, it only stays straight when i get off of the gas. I noticed someone here saying that the front 0 degree peice solved that problem, and also, my rear inner tire tread is wearing and i wanted to know if i should get the 0 degree rear set up to eliminate that (to get rid of inner rear tire wear instead of equal tire wear on the rear tires) because my inner tread on the back tires are smooth, is that how it's supposed to be? i was just assuming that it was supposed to wear across the whole tread not just the inside.

i adjusted the remote steering, it just pulls to the side when i give it throttle, that's all i'm trying to eliminate, i just want a decent straight line run from my car when throttle is applied.

[DeanB500]

There is no front 0 degree part, you adjust front toe-in with the turnbuckles.

Toe-in is how much the tires point inwards (ie leading edge of the tire pointing at the center of the car)

toe-out is the opposite.

Camber is how much the top of the tire leans in, or out from the car. Your tire wearing on the inside is because you have too much positive camber (top of tire leaning into the car). To adjust this look to the rear of the car at the silver turnbuckles. You want to make the distance between the car an wheel bigger (or just widen the turnbuckle)

0degree rears dont enable you to hold a straight line better, they give you faster straight lines. 1.5degree rears will probably help you get a better straight line, while keeping the bum end of the car nailed down during corners.

Dean

[h22ah]

dean your set-up is for drifting right....is that why your springs ane the way they are......this is my set-up

• 50wt oil
• 3 hole pistions
• 1.5 degree front camber 1 on rear
• 30lb spings in front 25 in rear
• front sway bar on second hole from rear no rear sway bar
• big caster clip on the rear small one in front
• 1 degree front toe 1.5 in rear

i also installed the 0 degree front block but hav'nt tryed it out yet...and ride hight is 6mm in front and 8 in rear.....the rear tracks the front real well with no sliding at all.........but i guess it all depends on driver prefence

[Ohio-Nitro4-Tec]

Originally posted by DeanB500
There is no front 0 degree part, you adjust front toe-in with the turnbuckles.

Toe-in is how much the tires point inwards (ie leading edge of the tire pointing at the center of the car)

toe-out is the opposite.

Camber is how much the top of the tire leans in, or out from the car. Your tire wearing on the inside is because you have too much positive camber (top of tire leaning into the car). To adjust this look to the rear of the car at the silver turnbuckles. You want to make the distance between the car an wheel bigger (or just widen the turnbuckle)

0degree rears dont enable you to hold a straight line better, they give you faster straight lines. 1.5degree rears will probably help you get a better straight line, while keeping the bum end of the car nailed down during corners.

Dean

Thanks

[DeanB500]

h22ah, my set up is like that cos it has to be I dont have the money to change it hahaha. Ive also goteen used to driving the car like that, insted of adjusting the car to my driving style, ive adjusted me to the car

Ohio - no problem

Dean