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As long as I can get traction, my Jato wheelies with either a 13.5 or my Mamba 5700...

I love my E-Jato!

It's really easy to adjust between high bite and low bite tracks...

If it's a low bite track, put an old, dead RX pack in the rear battery holder... When it's a high bite...

http://www3.telus.net/public/gmperry/IMG_1761s.JPG

That's what I did for my Clod...

I used red loctite on the nuts... After about 10 minutes of full-throttle digging 1/2" grooves in the hard...

You can only edit it a certain amount of time after it's posted, and it's gotta be before anyone else posts...

I have zero glitching in my E-Jato... So hopefully your loose antenna was the problem :)

I've been racing mine at the indoor track this winter, and despite being a good 2lbs heavier than the T4's...

Looks like you had fun!
But you can still tell what color it is ;)

Try again! :D lol

I'd also make sure that white wire is plugged in better than it is in that first pic...

I'm pretty sure my motor plate sits closer to the spur gear, for better pinion alignment... But I can't...

Nobody _needs_ any R/C, it's all about want. I bought my own nitro, because my parents told me if I wanted one, I've gotta get it myself.

Bang, instant responsibility check, people treat things...

You can break an ankle with a Clodbuster @ 15MPH.... it's roughly twice the weight of the Jato...

pretty much any r/c can hurt someone... as long as the kid was raised to be responsible, then it...

opaque isn't see through...

transparent is see through ;)

also, a good backer helps the paint stay better during impacts...

at least when things move on the inside of the body, lol

It will have a higher top speed, with the 54T, yes... a bit less acceleration, though

the 58T spur, will give you less speed, and more acceleration, assuming your motor and everything is in proper order

You won't be able to run the motor directly from the reciever, you will need some kind of circuit control device... do tests with a standard ESC from another R/C or something like that

getting the motor to work is the EASY part, getting it to turn the wheels is the only thing you really need to worry about.

oh, and for the record, an ESC does NOT have a throttle servo

You'd need a one-way bearing for the front wheel the motor will attatch to, or else there's going to be a large amount of drag from the motor

and you WILL need an esc, even if you could control...

That would mean he can't use the RX that came with the Jato, lol


I think the Jato's RX is the same as the one that comes with the TQ3... that's why it has a third channel...

You could use almost any 3 channel transmitter, as long as you have the matching crystals, and it's made to operate in that frequency band.

exactly, or else you can bend your steering links, lol, especially if you're EPA isn't set right...

Though, I've heard funky things about the digital hitecs, so I'd stay away from those... but the...

With a stadium truck like the Jato, you don't really need crazy amounts of torque for the steering... the stock steering servo has 80oz of torque... which does a pretty good job of turning the...

at the cost of like $7, it's not that big of a deal to replace the half-shafts :lol:

The Striker II's don't seem to work very well... they've got pretty much no grip on pavement (might be different on a prepared surface...) to get the Jato moving with my Striker II's, I can't use...

You don't need to add weight... just a wing for downforce, or some such contraption, lol

This is why we use screwdrivers that are the proper size ;)


Hope ya manage to get 'em out! :D

With that setup/body/aerodynamics....


Not possible.... A Jato will lift off and flip at 65+ without something to keep the front end down (according to R/C Car Action TRX3.3 review/testing)