Good job man, looks like a cruiser!
Type: Posts; User: lubecakes
Good job man, looks like a cruiser!
Byron's gen 2 is good fuel.
That's crazy. Using more oil will make the engine run terrible, and can result in lean running because you're constantly searching for that 'sweet spot' and will most likely lean it out too much in...
They don't have to run hot, but most people use crappy fuel in them or they just don't know what they're doing in the first place.
Heating is good no matter what because it loosens the engine and ultimately extends it's life.
The piston looks pretty good, but has probably been run a bit lean from time to time.
Why buy a buku? They are nice, but it's adjustabilty that makes them great. IMO, the m2c is just as good for less money, but you have to take it apart to adjust it....no big deal to me, I haz spring...
It depends on humidity and fuel too, not just temperature.
I can say this though, if your well tuned engine runs 240-250° on a 80° day, a well tuned engine should run about 210-220° on a 60°...
Did you replace the o-rings because this problem was happening? I'll bet you have a broken carb or it's not fully seated into the engine.
I have the gh ones and they work great. My plastic ends never popped off, but they would break from doing wheelies too much.
....And then reading a whole lot more after that. Not to sound harsh, but you really need to learn this stuff or else you'll be spending all your time going back and forth to the LHS instead of...
Honestly, it doesn't matter what model it is, as long as it has a little room up front (5309, 5308) like DG said. If it's a short chassis (5310), the only real difference would be the front center...
The 2.5 is pretty reliable, but the 3.3 can also be very reliable, it's just easier to break the conrod on a 3.3.
You're putting too much faith in technology and hobby shop people. Take your high speed needle and turn it out 1/2 a turn. The cutting out is from running too lean. The hobby shop guys are not...
I would start by looking for any fuel leaks, they're easy to spot. If that checks out, try richening the high speed needle by at least 1/2 a turn.
Yeah start with the idle gap....1mm or less. I have a very small drill bit that I use.
What's the weather like outside buggyandtruck?
I hate the pinch test, I find it quite annoying. Instead of using the pinch test you can go by how long the engine will idle without 'loading up'....
That engine was lean!
You need to get fuel with less oil content. The extra oil is causing your engine to run poorly, and your tuning to go lean. Your plug issues are from running lean, whether it's tuning, lack of fuel...
Maybe you need to crack the throttle a little bit. Sometimes the tiny passage through the lsn can plug up, so you may want to see if it will pull fuel with the slide open a bit.
The traxxas final drive gears are plenty strong enough.
Not true at all. Running lean allows the spent gases to bake onto the piston, as opposed to being flushed away by a proper or slightly rich tune. You are right about the plug coil.
THEtom, you are...
You capitalized the word two, spelled "thing" instead of think, "land" instead of and, and forgot to use these,,,,,,,.
They will, but you need the extended drive cups if you're using the extended wheelbase arms.
I've seen a 3.3 crank break like that, it's from running too lean. NN is right about the design and everything, but in millions of cranks there's bound to be some weak ones.
-39° c may sound ridiculous, and yes it is cold, but it's actually equal to -38.2° f.