That has happened to me on my axle. What you need is a lighter and vise grips. Heat up what's left of the bearing then grab with vise grips and slide off. Caution, it will be hot. Don't overheat it...
Type: Posts; User: maddasterd
That has happened to me on my axle. What you need is a lighter and vise grips. Heat up what's left of the bearing then grab with vise grips and slide off. Caution, it will be hot. Don't overheat it...
Lol, I was gonna ask for a video of it running. Sounds as good as it looks. You have telemetry running in that rig?
Very nice setup. The dx3s is the cherry on top. I want one of those radios. How do you like it?
Looks close to a Jato mount. I agree with trxnewbie not a tmaxx mount.
If you have an engine you don't ever want to use again go for it. It will melt your mill after first shot. Would be entertaining to see in person tho lol.
I have a dynamite infra red handheld, and the traxxas onboard. It's weird that people have had problems with the traxxas one. After my own testing I have found them both to be within +- 1degree of...
Currently I have 5 traxxas models and one non-traxxas model. Old school 2 whl drive pede, tmaxx 4908, sport maxx, jato 2.5, rustler vxl, and an mgt 8.0. Nice shelves but I think myself personally...
Too bad your in Ohio I'd go in on a bulk order of Top Fuel with ya. Lol
It's only that or Byrons at my lhs which is 10$ cheaper a gallon but foams waay to much and tuning is all over the place.
I use 20% topfuel. Only problem is it's 39.99+tax a gallon! I would just get it by the quart but it would only last one bash session. Lol
Honest, up front and fast shipping. If he sells anything else I need in the future I have no hesitation to do business again.
Definitely +1 to pull start. I would have owb's go bad all the time, with the easy start. Havnt had a single issue after I switched to pull start.
People should use what they want. Without being judged. This is an open ended hobby with LOTS of options out there. This forum is for advice, and help. What works for you might not for me. I take...
Agreed. Would definitely choose those over aluminum ones, and with the T who doesn't go over rocks lol.
So yes, a good purchase.
I've heard a few good things about the pro-line ones. Just can't find em in stock. I have the blue traxxas ones....there is minor slop otherwise decent as well.
Wouldn't hurt. I don't like them because you have to fully remove it to gain access to your cvd's......I guess that's not that bad tho....just extra screws to turn. Lol.
Sorry you have 4907... here you go.
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/tmaxx33.html
http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/tmaxx25.html
Yes, you need a hardened steel clutch bell. I have been running that spur with a Robinson racing hardened steel cb for over two years without issues. I'm currently 1 1/2 gallons in on a new OS .21 tm...
I assumed the metal yokes would have been a cheaper alternative to the steel cvd's.....not to be used with them, sorry lol
The plastic yokes are for if your running plastic shafts. The setup in post 15 should bolt right up to where the plastic yokes would. You don't use yokes for that setup.
Those bulks will fit your maxx. Just make sure you locktite all the threads. I also did a search and could not find steel yolks for your truck anywhere.
I have golden horizon front bulks on my Jato. It's not close to T Maxx by any standards, but the part is quality.
Ha ha lol, told you man its a requirement now, not an option with that 3.3 How you like the snappy power so far?
Under my CLOSE supervision both my 10 year old son, and 8 year old daughter drove my T Maxx.
While they enjoyed the cool sound it makes, they both prefer using my brushless Rustler.
That was...