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  1. Replies
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    It is 30wt but is IMO relatively thin for its...

    It is 30wt but is IMO relatively thin for its weighting - closer to 27.5wt in AE oils for sure.
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    Ahh, the sweet memory of posts past - 3 years...

    Ahh, the sweet memory of posts past - 3 years sure does pass quickly. Thanks for digging this one up for me!

    For the avoidance of doubt, I was never trying to suggest in my original post that a...
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    I think he's talking about both Slashes - 1/16...

    I think he's talking about both Slashes - 1/16 and 1/10.

    If you're after long run times, go for a high turn/low KV 540 brushless motor with low gearing. Brushless motors are far more energy...
  4. Thread: Slash Diff.

    by Mr Wolf
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    119

    I really loved the idea of that mod but just...

    I really loved the idea of that mod but just couldn't get it to work for me (it still leaked). I gave up in the end and bought an FLM sealed diff - it was pricey but effective.
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    I've always put a tiny amount of threadlock on...

    I've always put a tiny amount of threadlock on pinion threads and have never had an issue removing them with a quality, tight fitting hex driver. The trick is to not overdo it and use the right tool....
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    RPM castor blocks are really bad news. Do not buy...

    RPM castor blocks are really bad news. Do not buy them! They only don't break because they're even bendier than the stock ones. This flex allows the king pins to bend at the first opportunity....
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    I had that happen once and I managed to still...

    I had that happen once and I managed to still extract it buy using a different, better quality hex driver (Hudy). If you've been using a 1.5mm driver, try a 1/16" one as it usually fits but tighter. ...
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    RPM front bearing carriers would be my priority...

    RPM front bearing carriers would be my priority for under $10.
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    If you get the Protrac kit, I would put the lot...

    If you get the Protrac kit, I would put the lot on the truck if you're racing. For bashing I might swap out the rear carriers for your aluminium ones just to protect the P/L ones.

    Another option...
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    You may know this already but winding a small...

    You may know this already but winding a small strip of plumber's (PTFE) tape around the thread on the shock body can help prevent those caps from popping off.

    Personally, I upgraded all my caps to...
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    Nothing's wrong with the stock transmission. The...

    Nothing's wrong with the stock transmission. The stock gears are all steel apart from the spur gear and in my experience very durable when running up to 2S lipo (I don't run 3S so can't comment...
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    1. Protrac (get the whole kit, especially if you...

    1. Protrac (get the whole kit, especially if you are still running the stock shock towers), it's actually very good value for what you get
    2. No. You want linear springs (not progressive). Start...
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    I agree that 50wt will probably be a bit too...

    I agree that 50wt will probably be a bit too thick for racing (most racers are in the 30-40wt zone) but we need a bit more info from you really.

    What type of track will you be running on?

    Also,...
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    159

    STRC bulkhead, STRC or TRX casters, STRC hardened...

    STRC bulkhead, STRC or TRX casters, STRC hardened locking hinge pins, STRC bellcrank, RPM front and rear bearing carriers - these are my favoured durability upgrades. If you want more colour, go with...
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    I would always charge at 1C but opinions differ...

    I would always charge at 1C but opinions differ on whether to balance every single charge. I always do because it's good practice and easy to do. Also store the battery at 3.8-3.85V per cell when not...
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    That list looks pretty good to me. Slash rear...

    That list looks pretty good to me. Slash rear arms are longer than the Bandit ones though but they are exactly the same as the Nitro Rustler ones for what it's worth.

    Also, you'll need Slash...
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    Just balance charge it at 1C charge rate

    Just balance charge it at 1C charge rate
  18. Thread: Links?

    by Mr Wolf
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    81

    Which "links" are you talking about?

    Which "links" are you talking about?
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    I wouldn't worry about the handling at all as...

    I wouldn't worry about the handling at all as using the wider front offset rims gets all the rear track width back. I used to race a Rustler with Slash rear arms and front offset rims. The handling...
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    Proline Protrac kit would give same arm width F/R...

    Proline Protrac kit would give same arm width F/R and with front rims all round would widen the track by about 22mm.

    Slash rear arms would also give same arm width F/R (but 22mm narrower than...
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    If you'd got it I think you would have needed a...

    If you'd got it I think you would have needed a different ESC to go with though, the original VXL-3S doesn't play well with 4-pole motors. The new model is part# 3355R and has visible capacitors and...
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    It will have braided wires (not silicone rubber)...

    It will have braided wires (not silicone rubber) and 3351R (part #) written on the end cap.

    Also with the 4-pole you get that really stiff notchy feel when you rotate the shaft with your fingers. ...
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    Aha, thanks Billy, that's quick paradigm shift...

    Aha, thanks Billy, that's quick paradigm shift for me!

    I never knew about these (we don't have them this side of the Atlantic methinks). I presume these must all run on a LCG chassis?
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    What do you mean by "late model body"? I...

    What do you mean by "late model body"?

    I bought two new Slash 2WDs recently (XL-5 ones) and their bodies seem exactly the same as my original one from 3 years ago.
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    If you haven't got one, get yourself an IR temp...

    If you haven't got one, get yourself an IR temp gun. Before I got one I always thought my motors were running hotter than they actually were. The finger test never really worked for me. You might be...
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