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Center diff failure at 65+mph on 6s. Pics of diff and video upon my bump. Just waiting on it from my buddy. Will try again with locked/solid center diff. Sorry for the cell phone video to come but it's something. If you enjoyed watch again in the future for a better one. I'll be sure to film from battery hook up to finish. Might need all steel gears.
[IMG]http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/Mike_Woodbury/3622CF79-5547-4A1D-A3C7-8CB6148B47E6-129-0000000939EF13B4_zpsf24b8881.jpg[/IMG]
you had your merv on 6s lipo how?:lol:
Yah id call that a failure ahah
Mmp esc trinity epic 3750/550 trx 3s in series 39/45 on 2.5 foams
[IMG]http://i1174.photobucket.com/albums/r607/Mike_Woodbury/AE1F68C0-FDDE-45CD-ABBA-E5C67A16D696-5586-0000082FD5428657_zps08cd9bc1.jpg[/IMG]
Looks like my buddy's lathe machine from that pic. Lol
Did it happen on ur first 6s run or have you been running 6s for a while now?
Center diff not a good idea!
If you go for the hr gears I would spend so time shimming them. Took a while but mine are holding up so far!
What kv is your motor?
Did you just blow a bearing in yours 50, I thought I read that you toasted a tranny. I think it melted from the speed. It wasn't just a short run we followed it in my buddies turbocharged subi. Road was a little curvy at first, so it was difficult to build the speed. He shouted we were well above 65 n I said good cause it looks like its slowing down. Next thing I know he straddled it and it was on the side of the road in tall grass. Yah, it didn't snap. It's a 3750kv 550 Trinity Epic 4x4 SC on 6s geared 39/45. I checked temps @ battery esc n motor. Motor n esc weren't even 100*, batteries were 106+-
I blew 2 Acer ceramic pinion bearings. Got my money back and now have Boca yellow seal ceramics
In the trans I broke the small hr metal gear. This time I spent some time shimmimg them because they move around a lot
This weekend almost ran the neu 1112 on 4s but was rained out and I was going to try a 3s run with the 9000 kv motor
Pretty good temps!
Thanks for the heads up on shimming, any advice on how to. Can't wait to get that eagle tree. Either the speed calc is way off or the tranny melted down too soon either way it wasn't even close. But we had the turbo charged chase car just in case.
Shimming the trans was time consuming!
You will notice the gears on the 3 shafts move around a bit and you have to shim one at a time -assemble it and keep adding shims until its too tight then take one out. Then shim the next one - same process- then the next .when you have all 3 your done!
The speed calculator is accurate up to about 40-50 mph before aerodynamics come into play hard! The whole.point of going fast with the merv is at speed its like a brick -not meant for fast speeds
[QUOTE=50togo;5350998]Shimming the trans was time consuming!
You will notice the gears on the 3 shafts move around a bit and you have to shim one at a time -assemble it and keep adding shims until its too tight then take one out. Then shim the next one - same process- then the next .when you have all 3 your done![/QUOTE]
I personally think that shimming trans case is pretty much pointless because you only eliminate the side-play, not the gear-mesh. Diffs are different story, there you have 2 beveled gears which are perpendicular to each other. By adding shims you push the gears closer to each other, making gear-mesh tighter. On the trans the shimming doesn't affect the gear-mesh ąt all
All I know is the hr gears have broken and its always the small gear.
I have a few limited 4 cell speed runs with the shimmed trans on my neu 1112 and so far so good.
I am betting you run a stock transmission
Got this tip from another member . I missed the gear drive sound and if it works that's fine if it doesn't we will find out
[QUOTE=mtc777;5351017]I personally think that shimming trans case is pretty much pointless because you only eliminate the side-play, not the gear-mesh. Diffs are different story, there you have 2 beveled gears which are perpendicular to each other. By adding shims you push the gears closer to each other, making gear-mesh tighter. On the trans the shimming doesn't affect the gear-mesh ąt all[/QUOTE]
That's what I was thinking, shimming will just eliminate any side to side play and not do anything for the gear mesh itself.
Is there supposed to be a video here somewhere, I can't find it if it's here. :confused:
[QUOTE=50togo;5351131]Got this tip from another member .[/QUOTE]
Not sure if your talking about our conversation or not but I was more thinking it was the play between the hex inside the little gear and the hex of the respective shaft it rides on. I epoxied the little gear onto the shaft to eliminate the play in the hex area. I still haven't gotten the motor for the project yet (I tend to get lazy at the end) so it still has no runs on it yet. Either way shimming the trans can't hurt, I'm considering shimming it aswell.
i was thinking of doing that too. maybe when i get done upgrading my embe and erbe i will pull it apart and epoxy it. maybe tomorrow
All the gears are pretty tight even the little one that broke last time. I did notice if i pulled the gear off the shaft and turned it and put it back on it was loose. The gear on the right is loose though [IMG]http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o518/davi3260/20121207_152554.jpg[/IMG]
Roughed it up a bit for the epoxy to stick [IMG]http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o518/davi3260/20121207_160132.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1145.photobucket.com/albums/o518/davi3260/20121207_162229.jpg[/IMG]