Ive been playing with my old 3906 e-maxx recently after it being retired from racing for the past 8 years. Put a few upgrades in it to handle the dual dewalt motors but I have now picked up a HobbyWing 150A ecs with a 2000kv sensorless motor. Needless to say this thing shreds the diffs. Looking for some suggestions as to what I should replace them with to handle the 4S and possibly the 6S lipos I just bought.
The plastic cups in the rear diff stripped in seconds.
Current driveline upgrades are:
- Full CVDs all around
- Steel idler gear
The rest of the upgrades were for strength and low CG for racing.
I have found some options but not sure how good they are.
Fast Lane: [url]http://www.fastlanemachine.net/proddetail.php?prod=flm51000&cat=15[/url]
Will these fit inside the two bolt diffs?
Fast Lane: [url]http://www.fastlanemachine.net/proddetail.php?prod=FLM18750&cat=15[/url]
My bulk heads are already aluminium and fine, so not too keen on these.
Spool the rear and maybe the front too.
How bad is this with the steering? I know I will lose some control but not sure how much.
Hot Racing: [url]http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?partnumber=RVO11C01;c=431[/url]
Will these cups fit the 3906 diffs?
Traxxas 3908 diffs. Would these hold out with a 2000kv on 4S or 6S?
Or a combination of these diffs with the Hot Racing cups.
Or the other option is diffs from something else like an LST or a 1/8th buggy? Any that are easier to fit than others?
Any help would be great. Thanks!
Hmm nobody? I have read some stuff on these formus but not much about a few of the other option, or how difficult some options are for the 3906 model compared to the newer models.
Should I post this in a different section maybe? :confused:
The old maxx ring gear and diff carrier use different size screws holding them together the old uses 2mm the new 2.5mm, so mixing up both won't work.
Using new complete maxx parts in the old 2screw maxx housing might work ?, But the idea of using new 4screw housing is to help reduce the housing flex which strips the gears.
Using spools affects turning, but is not a the problem you'll have. The problem will be if your using 6s your shafts will simply snap or it will snap the pins in the drive cups. Spools are good for drag racing or crawling off road. But steering on a grippy surface or it will break something.
You can buy any 4 screw maxx diff, If it doesn't have the I-bar you can buy that separately, theres other options but my google is picking up the wrong things.
If your staying with maxx diffs get any revo style maxx diffs, If you get a Tmaxx diff you'll need to buy the Ibar separately. Using 6s you may need to find these other options.
Will I have the problem even with the steel shafts?
Will the revo diffs actually fit in the bulk head? I see the shafts may need to be longer in the centre or even just a longer cup.
I will check out the threads of putting the LST2 diffs in but the problem is I'm from Australia and shipping anything takes 3 weeks before I can even try it. The hobby stores aren't very big here. That's why I'm asking now so I get it right the first time.
Thanks for the help! Keep it coming
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I snapped the pins and that was on brushed within 2 minutes. Glad i only paid 99p from fleEbay, but i did get a set of upgraded pivot balls with the two spools, so no big loss there.
It revo 'style', just means sealed. Only shares some parts with the maxx, so no they won't fit in the bulkhead.
i tried looking for the lst2 diffs but was too hard to find a set.
Oh ok, looks like spools are out of the question then.
How about the brushless e-maxx diffs? Closer to the old style or the same as the e-revo?
Yeah I couldn't really find complete ones but I did find a parts list in someone else's build thread which was handy.
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you could try the spools but not worth it really, Put some heavier diff lube in there instead.
I run the emaxx brushless diffs now, I had to buy the Ibar and diff carrier seperate as it was the tmaxx diffs i had picked up from the fleEbay, I like a bargain.
But you def need to change the whole diff unit out and put a stronger one in it's place. The 2screw will break under 4s with your set up.