[QUOTE=AbSoLooT1;5382294]Sick bro. Love ur 4x4![/QUOTE]
Thanks Brotha! Its a long way from being done, i have a bunch of upgrades in the packages still but gonna run it stock until the snow is gone, then ill slap on the alloy and strap in the 2400 motor. It has been a good while since ive run the p4de with a VXL system, i forgot how underwhelming it is with stock gearing. Especially considering my last p4de had the Tekin rx8/Pro4 3300 combo in it. Itll get there though, i plan on decking this truck out just as much as my HR P2de. ;)
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D@MN, nice transformation on the pede. You didn't waste any time man!
So I've been Staring at these Telemetry parts i picked up for a a couple months now (bottom right of pic) and for some reason i kept putting off the install.
Now i know why i was putting it off. This was an extremely un-fun parts install. Im usually all about installing upgrades and working on my trucks, but this install took a good chunk of time and was so basic it was boring. Lol Anyways, I'm glad its finally done and it worked out really well.
A couple things i had some minor issues with; First was the "thermal pad" for the motor temp sensor. The pad has a backing on it that would make you assume that it would be sticky underneath and would adhere to the temp sensor bracket. Not the case at all. Getting this pad lined up under the bracket was very annoying as it kept falling off or moving out of place, which brought me to my next issue...
When i finally got the thermal pad positioned correctly under the bracket, i used the included zip tie to hold the bracket on the motor. The zip tie would not hold the temp bracket tight enough to keep it from moving on the motor, so i gave it a bit of a pull to tighten it and the zip tie broke. Not a big deal since i have plenty of zip ties around, but this meant i had to line up the thermal pad all over again using the new tie. When i got it installed i routed the leads down the center of the truck.
Although routing the wiring on my trucks is something that i really dislike doing, I do pride myself in being pretty good at concealing the wiring for a cleaner look. Being good at it is likely the reason i don't like doing it, cuz it takes way longer to get it to look nice and neat. After installing the rpm sensor on the motor mount (thank you Traxxas for including the sensor ready motor mount with my RTR!) and installing the sensor magnet assembly on the spur gear, i routed the leads down the center of the truck as well.
For the voltage sensor, i used the included high current Traxxas adapter for the battery lead but before putting it on, i removed the positive contacts from both plugs and ran some shrink tube to hold the sensor wire to the positive wire. Since this is a wire i will have to deal with a lot when installing/removing battery packs, it needed to be without issues such as snags or tangled wires. I used five 1/2" long sections of shrink tube to hold the wire in place because using a full length of tube on the positive battery lead would make the wire stiff and difficult to deal with when hooking up batteries. This lead was also routed down the center of the truck.
Before routing the leads into the receiver box and connecting them to the rx, i marked all wire polarities and positions on their respective rx plugs and then removed all the plugs from the wires. I then used a single length of shrink tube and laid it along the top of the driveshaft cover and marked the tube (mark only the esc side of the tube so all harnesses enter the same side) for where each sensor harness would need to enter. I then cut holes in the tube (just big enough for the harness to fit in) where i had marked the tube. I included the esc and servo leads in this tube as well. After routing all the harnesses through the shrink tube, i reinstalled all the rx plugs, routed them into the receiver box and connected them. I did not heat shrink the tube because not only would it look crappy when shrunk around the mess of wires inside it, but also because i dont want to have to reroute all harnesses if one of my devices needed to be replaced, serviced, upgraded etc. getting the TQi rx to fit in the box with all these extra wires took a little persuasion and was a tight fit, but the integy aluminum receiver box (made for the HPI Nitro Firestorm) managed to hold it all just fine. The length of shrink tube containing all the leads tucks nice and snug behind the esc.
The setup of the telemetry on the IPhone and TQi tx was the best part. The TQi and link app automatically detects the presence of all installed sensors and all that was required was the selection of the gauge cluster type i preferred.
Rpm/speed sensor is fully functional, but i will not know how accurate it is until i figure out how to set tire diameter and then run the truck outside at higher speeds and compare it to gps recoded speeds. The voltage reading is accurate (compared against professional $80 Mastercraft digital multimeter) and updates very quickly at about 1/2 -1 second after a tx command that causes a drop. In voltage. As for the Tempbsensor, I ran the truck in the basement for a good 15 mins with lots of stops and starts to get the electronics good and warm and then took a temp reading at the motor using my infrared temp gun. To my surprise, the TQi temp sensor was reading only 0.2°F cooler than my temp gun. I took several readings over another 10-15 mins of running with the same result of the TQi reading only 0.2°F cooler than the temp gun. In case you are wondering, my temp gun is a Pro.Point infrared laser thermometer, retails for $129.99, i picked it up on sale for $90 early last year.
Overall i am very satisfied with the full telemetry install. Due to my previous P2de Spektrum DX3S overpriced ($280) telemetry install that was a severe pain to custom install, only had a 20 foot range and suffered from severe glitching, i had reservations about installing telemetry again. The Traxxas telemetry was a very straight forward install that requires more time than it does effort to get it done. Props to Traxxas for doin it right. I really wanted to install the TQi gps sensor on my R/C's, but its looking like we can buy one but never actually own one.
Not much of a difference between the before and after...and thats just the way i like it!
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P2DE(S) - P4DE - EMAXX - FUNNY CAR - MERV
Hi baldy i love the look of the wheel and tyre combo. where did you get the receiver box from it looks awesome man:)...peace
Nice writeup and clean install there buddy!! I wasnt interested in the RPM/Speed sensor and am still not sure I want one. Who knows I might have to grab one and give it a try since I'm still waiting on the GPS Module & Expander unit to.
Nice job on the wiring and voltage tap. I put shrink wrap/mesh around both my leads. I still have a rats nest to clean up, have no idea where to put the rest of it. LOL
[QUOTE=spenniepoos;5401056]Hi baldy i love the look of the wheel and tyre combo. where did you get the receiver box from it looks awesome man:)...peace[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, the receiver box is from integy, its one of the very few parts id run from them. Its for the HPI Nitro Firestorm but the mounting holes line up nearly perfect. It can be bought in blue as well and they are dirt cheap. The silver one costs $3 less than a stock Traxxas rx box and the blue is $3 more than the stock.
To hide the long screws needed to mount the alloy box, I used the old standoff posts that came with my Hot-Racing P2de carbon/alloy transmission that were used for mounting the stock wheelie bar. The integy box has more room for stuffing all the extra wiring and i like that it also has an antenna mount on it. The integy box also has a rubber gasket under the lid, so all thats needed to make it fully waterproof is to use some silly putty to seal the hole where the wires enter. I have run it in the snow and wet already without sealing the hole with putty with no moisture getting inside, but if you wanted it to be submergible youd have to use the putty.
[QUOTE=rag6;5401226]Nice and clean buddy.[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, as soon as the weather smartens up around here, i am sure it wont be looking as clean cuz weve had like 3 feet of snow already and when it melts... Oh man is it gonna be fun! Then as soon as it is all dried up i will be ejecting the vxl system and tossing in one of the et-3s/2400kv systems i got laying in the parts drawer, so ill be starting all over again with the wiring.
[QUOTE=DiggerPede;5401092]Nice writeup and clean install there buddy!! I wasnt interested in the RPM/Speed sensor and am still not sure I want one. Who knows I might have to grab one and give it a try since I'm still waiting on the GPS Module & Expander unit to.
Nice job on the wiring and voltage tap. I put shrink wrap/mesh around both my leads. I still have a rats nest to clean up, have no idea where to put the rest of it. LOL[/QUOTE]
Wow thats a lot of wiring, you could almost use a hair brush to straighten it all out! Lol. i havent needed a hair brush in many years, so i gotta do it the hard way! ;) Maybe you should give the integy box a try, but youd have to get it powder coated black to match the truck.
Let me rephrase:
[QUOTE=rag6;5401226]Nice and clean wiring buddy.[/QUOTE]
Who needs a clean truck all the time anyway?
Nice looking rigs you got there! Question on how you trimmed the tires? Do you have a link?
[QUOTE=all_rice;5407410]Nice looking rigs you got there! Question on how you trimmed the tires? Do you have a link?[/QUOTE]
Thanks. Heres a couple links to help you with trimming tires:
[QUOTE=BaldyDaniels;5408695]Thanks. Heres a couple links to help you with trimming tires:
Thanks, also gonna try the carpet tape mod. I'm in the process of gluing a set and one is taped, so ill do a head to head
Rebuilt my shocks using STRC gun metal aluminum bodies and black HR aluminum caps. The bodies aren't threaded, but I won them in a parts lot for dirt cheap so I'm gonna use em. I'm impressed with how smooth the shocks are now and with the progressive TeamBlueStar spring I'm running I don't even need any preload and they work perfect.
It's been getting warmer here, so I decided to use the massive amounts of snow we received this winter to my advantage. I fired up the snowblower and created a 6 foot launch ramp at the end of my driveway. I shot the following video yesterday. It was a bit tough to get traction on my icy driveway, so the launches aren't as big as I would prefer. But it's even nicer today, so hopefully I can scrape the ice off of the driveway and get down to pavement for some good traction and seriously big air. ;)
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P2DE(S) - P4DE - EMAXX - FUNNY CAR - MERV
Once again you have made an awesome vid with sick tunes baldy :cool: Keep up the sweet work bro......peace out
Well, unfortunately my 3 month old VXL-3s ESC with less than 10 runs total decided to become "racing only". Last week during a pre-run function test in my living room, I powered up the Tx and Truck with a 3s lipo and checked the functions of the truck to ensure it was okay to take into the city for a bash session with my nephews. Everything was in perfect working order so i put my shoes on and drove the truck to the door. When the truck was at the door i put it in reverse to get it out of the way and after backing up about 6 inches it suddenly stopped, even though i was still giving it reverse throttle. So began the process of recalibrating, setting drive modes, trying another motor, different battery etc. all to no avail. For some strange reason the esc will not throw any reverse power. The esc will still calibrate fine and the led light still functions as it should, but when i hook a multimeter to the motor wires it shows no reverse power output. I guess i will be sending an email to Traxxas to see what they can do about it and when I send it in I will also send in the other 3 cooked ones too. It was kinda disappointing, but more of an inconvenience because i was just heading out for a planned bash session. At least it happened before I had left the house and drove 50km into the city, i may have been a little angry then. lol
BUT... As with all parts on these trucks, theres always something bigger, stronger, faster (or all of the above) that can take the place of any failed part. Since i am rarely ever short on spare parts, it was only a matter of installation to get the truck up and running.
I had always planned to Install the ET-3s/ET-2400 combo in this truck, but had intended to wait until all the snow and water was gone. Right now is about the worst time of all for slush, mud and massive puddles everywhere, but I was not about to let this stop me from running this truck. So I am now running a 100% waterproof ET-3s ESC (ive fully submerged it a few times already while waterskipping. lol) paired with the ET-2400 motor. Now this is not the first ESC that i have waterproofed. The first one i did was my old Duratrax/Castle Element (sidewider) esc which has been running in the snow, water and mud since mid december while installed in my 1/16 E-revo and paired with the vxl 3500 motor. The second ESC I waterproofed was the old Traxxas/Novak EVX ESC in my sons E-Maxx which has also been running in the wet conditions all winter without issue. The EVX was a real pain to waterproof because of the way the heatsink fins come through the case and it took a long time to get every gap sealed. The Element and ET-3s escs have very similar internals that were both very easy to get sealed up. The Element was sealed using "Seal-All", which seems to be half epoxy and half silicone sealant, but has pretty potent fumes and took a few days to completely dry. The ET-3s esc was sealed using Adhaero brand 5 minute clear 2 part epoxy that comes in a dual syringe for accurate mixing proportions.I did not completely pot the electronics in the case, but instead I completely coated the circuit board, let it dry, then installed it into the esc case. I did this because the esc fan is not waterproof and in order to remove/install the fan you need to be able to take the circuit board out of the case, and of course i removed the fan and will reinstall it when the ground dries up. Using the 5 min epoxy to seal the ET-3s made the entire waterproofing process take less than 20 minutes from start to finish. Heres some pics of the epoxy coated circuit board:
I am currently running 17/54 gearing which will likely be the lowest i will go as long as the temps are okay when the weather gets hot, so i only removed as much of the driveshaft shroud plastic as was needed for proper gear mesh. This allows me to continue using the stock clear driveshaft cover. Here is pics of the chassis modification for the 2400 motor:
And a pic of the esc mounting plate i fabricated which is held in place by using 2 countersunk screws which also hold the steering servo in place.
The esc mounting plate i made allowed me to run the motor leads under the plate for a nice clean and neat setup. The plate also allowed me to extend the leads of the power cap that is usually attatched to the escs battery leads and conceal the cap under the mounting plate which also makes for less clutter. Where the cap leads are soldered to the escs battery leads is also where I cut and soldered my voltage sensor lead which got rid of the extra high current adapter and the extra bit of sensor wire. Pics of the completed install.
All in all the install turned out pretty clean after i extended the esc harness and routed all the wiring into the center shrink tube like it was before. I really like the full telemetry setup that Traxxas designed, it made it easy to make all the extra wiring disappear. i tested the temp sensor several times again to make sure it was still fairly accurate and to my surprise it works better than before and shows the exact same temp readings as my $120 infrared temp gun. During the first run with the new system installed, both rear wheel nuts from the flm adapters backed off, so i guess ill be using loctite on those from now on. i also had my pinion come loose once. It is also apparent that the stock slipper clutch is not meant for this kind of power, especially when it gets wet because it slips excessively when the trenchers meet dry pavement. Any suggestions for a slipper clutch upgrade?
Baldy once again you are the daddy when it come to mods and detailing and pics i love reading your posts and watching your vids and have learnt alot of you and some of the other guys here keep us posted on the build and would love to see a vid of it running with that brushless combo man:cool:.......peace bro.....Plus i forgot to say running the revo spec is the way to go with that type of power because if its good enough for 6s it will do you fine.
Clean motor/esc install. Great looking p4de! When you finally get around to dyeing chassis, Then BAM!!
[QUOTE=dirty don;5476254]Clean motor/esc install. Great looking p4de! When you finally get around to dyeing chassis, Then BAM!![/QUOTE]
Thanx man, yeah i hear ya bout the dyed chassis. Im just having way too much fun with the truck right now, so i dont want to have to rush it. I'll likely just order another new chassis and get it dyed and ready to go first.
[QUOTE=spenniepoos;5476072]Baldy once again you are the daddy when it come to mods and detailing and pics i love reading your posts and watching your vids and have learnt alot of you and some of the other guys here keep us posted on the build and would love to see a vid of it running with that brushless combo man:cool:.......peace bro.....Plus i forgot to say running the revo spec is the way to go with that type of power because if its good enough for 6s it will do you fine.[/QUOTE]
Thanks bud! Yeah, I seem to be blowing slipper pads apart now. I have the slipper tightened all the way right now and Ive only snapped one front half shaft so far and it wasnt from the motor power. Somehow the shaft is binding upon full suspension compression because the shaft snapped upon landing. I cant seem to duplicate the binding by hand, but the landings that this truck has endured so far have been a little hairy, if you check out my newest video you'll see what I mean. ;)
Dude time to make a chassis brace for the pede man some of the other guys running rallys,slashs are doing it so why dont we if we bash hard as they do.But the revo spec is so much better that stock:).......peace
[QUOTE=spenniepoos;5477705]Dude time to make a chassis brace for the pede man some of the other guys running rallys,slashs are doing it so why dont we if we bash hard as they do.But the revo spec is so much better that stock:).......peace[/QUOTE]
I guess a guy could just buy one of these primo looking units made for the sl4sh and just cut the rod to fit the length of the p4de, or just buy another piece of same diameter round aluminum stock rod and use the machined mounting brackets.
What am I saying?! I could totally make that brace assembly with my aluminum milling machine (vice grips and a dremel) ;)
I imagine I will see my chassis break sooner or later, but the snow makes for a little bit of a softer landing for now. With the 17/54 gearing I'm currently running I've had the truck up to 48mph so far. Now that I've chipped the ice off the entire length of my driveway and it's all asphalt, I'm gonna put a piece of plywood over the puddle of water at the curb for a longer runway and hit this ramp at about 50mph. :)
What did you think of the new vid? I set up two HD cameras so I could get front and rear shots of the ramp. For the 50mph launch I'll be setting up every camera I own (8 or 10 cameras) at all different angles. I'm thinking at that kind of speed I should be able to clear the two trees behind the ramp. I guess I better start ordering parts, cuz I'm sure something will break. I'm extremely tempted to bust out the HR P2de XL for a couple launches. lol
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I am going to make one for the summer because i have found a man size hole in the golf club fence and there are some places a round the course that i could get the highest air i have done^_^.....peace
If you are referring to the snow ramp bid, then it was awesome. Thoroughly enjoyed it!:thumbup:
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[QUOTE=BaldyDaniels;5477931]What am I saying?! I could totally make that brace assembly with my aluminum milling machine (vice grips and a dremel) ;)[/QUOTE]
I've got one of those too...:wacko:
Baldy, you may want to get some volunteers, and a rescue dog... So you can find your truck.
[QUOTE=rag6;5478190]Baldy, you may want to get some volunteers, and a rescue dog... So you can find your truck.[/QUOTE]
Lol, yeah it's gonna fly for sure! :) after shooting that last video I did a couple passes to get some speed readings and I was hitting the ramp at around 25-28mph. Thats the most speed I could get without the tires breaking loose cuz it's still a bit frosty on the driveway and I have a limited stretch of runway because of the puddle at the end. Once I get some plywood over the puddle I'll be able to start from across the street adding about another 30-35 feet to my runway. That should get me about a 75-80 foot stretch of runway. I only have two days to get it done cuz they're calling for another foot of snow here on Saturday which is bunk cuz it took me forever to get the driveway clean enough to use the ramp!
I don't know if it's just my iPad browser or what, but I can't see my video anymore. Here it is again anyways:
[QUOTE=rag6;5478190]Baldy, you may want to get some volunteers, and a rescue dog... So you can find your truck.[/QUOTE]Nice one rag:lol:And yes baldy your vid is boss bro and my brain is going nuts on making a chassis brace now :eek:....Plus i have subscribed to your youtube account as well man.....peace
Well thankfully the weather forecast was wrong and we didn't get hit with anymore snow. It's actually been fairly mild here and my snow ramp is losing a couple inches of height every day. I managed to get a few more launches in before I snapped a rear half shaft on the stub axle side of the u joint. Not really sure why the rear shaft broke when I landed nose first, but either way I managed to hit the ramp at 40 mph, it's the very last jump on this short video:
I have steel cvds installed on the rear of the truck now and will be headed back out today to see if I can hit the ramp at a higher rate of speed. Nearly clipped the tree behind the ramp a couple times in that video, so im considering busting out the chainsaw today and make both trees disappear. ;)
Nice video, looks like you got some really sick air
Sweet vid again dude just to let you know that some company does carbon fibre slipper pads dude :thumbup:....peace
[QUOTE=Crazyman94;5481153]Nice video, looks like you got some really sick air[/QUOTE]
Yeah it's getting up there for sure. ;) Only problem is that the warmer temperature is rapidly melting the back slope of my ramp, so these huge launches end up being some pretty hard flat ground landings.
[QUOTE=spenniepoos;5481185]Sweet vid again dude just to let you know that some company does carbon fibre slipper pads dude :thumbup:....peace[/QUOTE]
Thanks man, yeah I believe Hot Racing makes some upgraded slipper pads, I got er grabbing pretty good now, I took a new slipper spring and stretched it out with pliers to the point where I had to compress the spring a bit to get the slipper nut started and now its probably a couple turns out and it grabs real good. I think the problem with the method of "tightening the slipper all the way down then backing off 1/4-1/2 turn" is the cause of the slipper ending up being too loose. The stock slipper spring isn't what I'd call high quality spring steel, so if a guy tightens the slipper all the way down then backs off, the spring loses a lot of its ability to expand and therefore loses its strength. I'm gonna grab some stiffer and higher quality springs from the auto parts store and see how that goes.
Gonna head out right away to fly my p4de some more, but wanted to share some pics of my new chassis shroud and see what you guys think of it:
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^looks great! Is it a DIY??
I literally caved in and bought a dusty motors shroud at lunch today, but tried thinking of a lot of ways to make my own!!
What type of shroud is that?
Thats good info on the slipper spring dude plus my wife could make me a shroud when i get hold of the right materials and keep up the vids and mods man:)........peace
Thanks guys. The shroud was custom made by me. (Believe it or not, I'm quite capable with a sewing machine) I used 3 layers of nylon screen that I crossed in different directions to achieve a very fine mesh. The three layers seems to work really well to keep dirt and debris out and also to help prevent water drips from getting all the way through the shroud. The parallel lines on the shroud are sewn on there to help hold the layers of screen together and also to help wick away any moisture (that's the idea anyways :) ) that collects on the screens. Velcro loop strips are sewn along the edges of the shroud and the Velcro hooks strips are adhered to the outside edges of the chassis just like how many brand name shrouds attach to the chassis. It works really good and only took about 1.5 hours to make, which i figure is pretty quick considering I didn't use a pattern or start with any kind of plans. I just took a couple of quick measurements of the chassis and had at it. It came out looking better than I had expected and fits the chassis perfectly. Since I already had all the supplies on hand, there was no cost involved. < Not too many times you can say that in this hobby! ;)
Thanks for the info on your shroud dude its some thing i will do as it saves cleaning time :).........peace
Baldy, I ripped my favorite bashing jeans at our bashplex on Sat, can I send them up???
If you ever come to the states, Especially Pittsburgh PA, LMK as I got some huge jumps for ya at our bashplex.
[QUOTE=rag6;5483359]Baldy, I ripped my favorite bashing jeans at our bashplex on Sat, can I send them up???
If you ever come to the states, Especially Pittsburgh PA, LMK as I got some huge jumps for ya at our bashplex.[/QUOTE]
Sure man! Did you just want them repaired or made into a shroud? Lol
Man I wish we had something cool like a bashplex here. There isn't even an outdoor track of any kind. The city near me has a BMX track that they haven't maintained in years because they dont want the expense of maintaining it and theres no bmx related organisations interested in it. It's a public park so anyone can use it, but it's pretty overgrown, so I'm currently trying to get permission to make it usable again at my own cost. Do you have any pics of the bashplex or a link to where I can view some?
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Its the same where i live you have to get creative to get a good bash session or do some traveling :O.o:....peace