My slash 4x4
Figured I'd throw up a few pics of my slash.
Revo slipper/alum slipper pads
Gh motor mount
Trx bearing adapter
Strc finned motor plate
Mip axles front and rear
Venom 4s lipo
Dynamite 3s lipo
Rustler receiver box
I think that's it...
Why that motor mount over the King Headz?
[QUOTE=bruggar;5301427]Why that motor mount over the King Headz?[/QUOTE]
It was cheaper, uses the same oversized bearing as the king headz, and was in stock at my lhs...
I think i might try the GH mount too. i've always liked their aluminum. nice truck! it looks like you need new tires soon. :):thumbup:
[QUOTE=vxlrocket;5301435]I think i might try the GH mount too. i've always liked their aluminum. nice truck! it looks like you need new tires soon. :):thumbup:[/QUOTE]
I'm happy w the gh mount. Nothing bad I can say about it.
I had a set oh trenchers on j concepts wheels, but I had a wheel nut come loose, and the hex inside the rim turned into a nice circle. I have proline beadlocs and switch tires on order. Should be here tomorrow
looks good. I don't like my gh mount at all. Has a 3mm gap that lets sand in. I picked it up cheaper than the KH. I wished I gone with the kh. But I'll use the Gh and seal the gap. Nice build btw!
Thanks knuckles. I run mine without the gear cover anyway... I really don't bash but in grass and harder packed dirt, otherwise it's asphalt. I had one instance where some mulch got into the gears with the cover on, and I feel like the cover kept it in there.
One other thing I want to do is buy a new stock chassis and dye it black. The stock one has some deep grooves cut in it from landing on rocks and such.
Looks good! Your body is in much better shape than mine. Got a flotek ford body on the way. Im too embarrased to post up pics of my manta body now LOL
Did you add padding to the bottom of the MMM mount for the MMP? It makes it set in there a lot more snugly. There is also a mount that is made specifically for this by a company snappyrc.com. They make a mount for both the regular position and one for the position like you have to allow the longer can motors. They also include screws for mounting the switch. Bought one for the 4x4 my 10 yo son is building now.
Looking good, you might want to run the antenna wire under the steering servo lead. When you get he powerstrokes you will notice a marked improvement in handling. Your shock positions look fine, I tried to move the fronts to two and I body rubbed even with reds. Have you considered a clear spur/pinion cover?
[QUOTE=JustinThyme;5301670]Looks good! Your body is in much better shape than mine. Got a flotek ford body on the way. Im too embarrased to post up pics of my manta body now LOL
Did you add padding to the bottom of the MMM mount for the MMP? It makes it set in there a lot more snugly. There is also a mount that is made specifically for this by a company snappyrc.com. They make a mount for both the regular position and one for the position like you have to allow the longer can motors. They also include screws for mounting the switch. Bought one for the 4x4 my 10 yo son is building now.[/QUOTE]
No, I actually cutdown the posts on the mount itself about 1/8-1/4 inch and used shorter screws to secure it to the chassis. In not interested in the snappy mount, because this mount cost me 3.00 and works perfectly fine.
nice truck man . have you tried metal hexes
Sent from Mars Curiosity.
looking good! I do believe your intake fan is backwards, not that it makes a big difference
edit: I see that it probably wouldn't reach the rx box the other way..nvm
You say it's a mmp but it's actually a mmm...
How do you like that venom battery?
Now see with a closer look.. Mamba monster extreme!
[QUOTE=kdvanb;5301960]You say it's a mmp but it's actually a mmm...
How do you like that venom battery?
Now see with a closer look.. Mamba monster extreme![/QUOTE]
It is infact a mamba max pro... :wacko:
I've only put 1 cycle on the venom battery, but so far I like it. It's a snug fit in the battery tray of the slash. Not thickness wise, but length wise.
Great job on upgrading your truck! If you glue your hex into the wheel you can still use them. I solved this problem with aluminum wheels and hex. Nothing to strip out.
I was thinking about glueing the hex. I also may try to remove the tires from the rims. If I could save the tires, I'd use them on my beadlocs
[QUOTE=Cinnabun;5301995]I was thinking about glueing the hex. I also may try to remove the tires from the rims. If I could save the tires, I'd use them on my beadlocs[/QUOTE]
You could try that, but if they are glued to a wheel removing the CA from the tire would involve a hobby knife and sore thumbs. Acetone melts CA but discolores plastic as well. I don't believe at that point the removed tires would sit well in the beadloc. What really impressed me when I originally assembled my trenchers was how well they seated. My disdain for CA comes from my RC plane days, you have to use it constantly and I grew to hate the smell and getting it all over my fingers. If I can use beadlocs, have a good tire selection, and reuse rims then I'm good.
Went outside to do some speed passes... And well I have my first slash mishap. Regeared to 21/52.
4s.. 55mph before the mishap
And, the mishap.. Torque steered into a curb when I pulled full throttle and the tires broke traction...
Snapped the arm at the hinge pins and split the shock body. ****it
bummer! time for upgrades
RPM A-arms and better shocks. I run the Traxxas big bores, but there are a lot of other options out there.
I'm going to get rpms from the lhs tomorrow, and a fellow member is selling me a set of proline shocks
How's that a mmp though?? Does it just have the mme casing?
[QUOTE=kdvanb;5302285]How's that a mmp though?? Does it just have the mme casing?[/QUOTE]
That is how the mmp sct looks I guess? I don't know really, I pulled it out of the castle packaging and installed it. Possibly the esc mount is throwing you off? The mount is from he brushless e revo.
Sorry to hear about the mishap.
Funny how those curbs jump out to get you.
The RPM towers tend to flex instead of snapping like stock.
Getting rpm front arms tomorrow, and a stock shock body until my powerstrokes are here
[QUOTE=Cinnabun;5302300]That is how the mmp sct looks I guess? I don't know really, I pulled it out of the castle packaging and installed it. Possibly the esc mount is throwing you off? The mount is from he brushless e revo.[/QUOTE]
I have the sct mmp and it has greenish plastic on part of it.
That esc is from an xo1
It's an mmp, I'm telling you lol
Here you can see the green sticker... [IMG]http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g185/SavyMan/4E61F901-5EDA-4F1C-8274-A93FEFC6869C-4020-0000034FA4009781.jpg[/IMG]
Okay.. So do you use the mme casing to help cool the motor more ?
I don't have a mme case. That is a stock mmp from castle...
Cinnabun , I was able to get 50/24 to fit, have not run it yet, you guessed it. Raining in St Pete. Let you know if speed increases. Let me know when the shock arrive.
Got my split six beadlocs and switch tires today, rpm front arms, and aluminum hexes. Didn't get any quality run time on the switch tires, but then seemed to hook up ok in the grass.
We you sure those are beadlocs?? Lol
Heading back to the lhs to grab a tekno big bone. I found the center driveshaft actually has a split where the rear splines are.
You will find it sets up tight, set the two washers in each cup
I love the Tekno Big bone. Put all four of the rubber o rings that come with it in. 2 in the front cup and 2 in the rear and the front to back slop goes down to like 1/8". I did the same thing 3 times with the "tubed spline" design. Two stock and one Integy to see if it was just the stock being weak, it wasn't. I even tried to bush the ends so it stayed centered better giving the splines better bite on both ends. It lasted a little longer but in the end the rear contiuned to split the shaft. Oh the joy of running 454 big block in a chevy vega. And yes I did that too once upon a time. Liked the look but nothing would hold up to the power. Ended up keeping the body and scraping the entire chassis for a camaro chassis. Funniest thing I did with the stock chassis was when I couldnt get traction so bled rear tires down to 10 psi. Got plenty then, snapped all the lug bolts off the rear end and her butt sat down on the tires! Im too old to build hot rods now so I apply the same principles to RC instead.:eek:
The accident spot. Lol
[QUOTE=Dgb007;5303750]No chalk outline?[/QUOTE]
shaped like a slash 4x4:wacko:
Some serious scrapes on the concrete! that was a hard hit, Suprised you didnt get more damage than you did.
So I've been battling with a rear end wobble for quite some time now. I kept thinking it was my wheel nuts loosening.
After running it today, I got frustrated enough and suspected the plastic rear hubs make have lost tolerance in the bearing seats.
But wait... I thought the balls were supposed to be inside the bearing...:p
Going to need to pick up new wheel bearings, and probably aluminum hubs...