Ultimate Off Road Jato Project

So I am going to begin building my [B][I]"Ultimate Off Road Jato"[/I][/B]. Here is my canvas, help me make a master piece.

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Share with me your vision and ideas for what it would take to build the ultimate off road Jato. I was going to buy a new OS motor, but my LHS gave me a TRX 3.3 motor that was turned in on the Power Up program. It looked brand new on the outside and was fairly clean on the inside. I took it apart and cleaned it up and feel certain that it will perform well. It still has enough pinch that I can not turn it over by hand. It literally feels like it hasn't not even been broken in yet. I think the guy just didn't know how to tune it and gave up and thought the motor was bad.

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I have some parts already
[LIST][*]Chassis - I plan on De-Anodizing it[*]Tires and Rim - Jato Split Spoke, de-chromed with Proline Badlands[*]GTR Shocks[*]Trinity Pipe[*]Spektrum receiver[*]RPM A-Arms[*]MIP Clutch[/LIST]
So tell me what other parts you think I should use and why? I will take all the ideas and opinions and choose what I can pull off cost wise and then build this master piece and share the progress I go. I will update the thread with pics. I travel a lot so it will probably take a couple of months to complete given my schedule.

Thanks for you ideas and time.

I recommend getting a 5v battery pack if u don't have one already.

Get stronger servos, waterproof is even better. Upgrade all the wheel base parts to aluminum and rpm control arms for the front and rear. Dual brakes, aluminum brake cams. 20t clutch bell and some nice off road tires. I did all that to my jato and man I tell ya. The car can take a good beating. I've flipped it over 10 times on a single crash, ran side ways into a curb at 40+ mph and I haven't broken a single part yet. *knock on wood*


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Aluminium tranny case from Integy. Great quality. I always stripped the engine mounting bolts on the trans case. Problem solved with this.

Hardened steel transmission gears from Hot Racing. I was stripping mine constantly.

THS pipe. Much better acceleration and top end.

17mm wheel adapter kit by Hot Racing. Much larger range of wheels to select from, also less ballooning.

Dual brake kit. This is a must. Don't get the one with round discs. Get the one with funny shaped discs with the carbon fibre pads.

What kind of servos were you thinking about? great review of servos in last months RC Car Action. Was thinking some of the hitec brands looked real nice.

Does anyone know if the make extended front and rear shock towers? Was thinking they might offer more travel over big jumps. Would need longer beefer shocks too. I know i have the GTR, but wondering now if those are going to be good enough.

I'm not too great with servos. But I did change out my steering servo with the traxxas 2075 waterproof servos along with a 1700mah flat pack and boy do the servos respond. I'm sure there's way better servos out there you can use but for the price I got these it can't be beat.


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+1 for the 2075 with a flat pack. I have the 2075 non waterproof with a venom 1600 mah flat pack and it turns the 2.2 badlands no problem. For a servo at around 25 - 30 dollars its worth it in my opinion. Only drawback is the case tabs always breaking, at least this happens to me alot. Anyone know how to prevent this?

[QUOTE=2.5trxjato;5106242]+1 for the 2075 with a flat pack. I have the 2075 non waterproof with a venom 1600 mah flat pack and it turns the 2.2 badlands no problem. For a servo at around 25 - 30 dollars its worth it in my opinion. Only drawback is the case tabs always breaking, at least this happens to me alot. Anyone know how to prevent this?[/QUOTE]

On my nitro helicopters. The servo taps have a small copper ring that will side in perfectly inside the taps. The screws will go inside the copper sleeve and once tighten it will hold the servo in place. That takes about 90% stress off the servo taps themselves. You might want to look into that. I haven't broken any taps yet so I haven't tried it myself but I'm sure it works the same way with cars.


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I hope that helps.


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Do the copper sleeves have a part number? Would a local hobby shop carry them?

I'm not sure if they have a part number or not. They come with all heli servos and have extras. They also come with rubber gourmets that side in between the servo taps as well to help with vibration. So I'm not sure of that. They may be a little long on a car, but you can cut them down to have them fit the servo mounts. As far as lhs carrying them. I cant tell you that.


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thanks for the info ill look into it. I have seen some people put a machined steel plate over it to help enforce the tabs.

My advice if your going to be doing a good amount of bashing. Stay away from aluminum parts as much as you can. Aluminum is strong and won't break easily. My father tried to go all aluminum and what he found is that he was always replacing the next connected part. Since you can't turn the entire car aluminum then you will always have a weak link. If you go RPM or other strong plastic parts, you have more flexibility. I believe this to be better for bashing/off roading...

Yeah, I normally only use aluminum on parts that need extra strength but are in an area that is better protected from crashes. I am looking at my race buggy and it only has about 1/2 dozen or so parts that are aluminum the rest are plastic. I don't mind plastic as long as they are in right spots.

Quick Update: Parts are starting to come in now. I ordered a roller from e-bay to get most the little miscellaneous parts off of it. Should be here Thursday/Friday

I recently ordered 2 SAVOX 1267sg High Voltage, High Torque Servos:

[IMG]http://www.savoxusa.com/v/vspfiles/photos/savsc1267sg-2.jpg[/IMG]

I also ordered the following Spektrum receiver: SR3100 DSM2.

Both are rated for high voltage, so I am going to be using a ProTek LiPo receiver battery.

This should allow me to run the LiPo without a voltage regulator. Just need to figure out if i need a Low Voltage Detection Cut-Off switch. Thoughts?

Last but not least I also ordered the RC Screwz Stainless Steel Jato 3.3 Screw Kit.

Quick Update: Parts are starting to come in now. I ordered a roller from e-bay to get most the little miscellaneous parts off of it. Should be here Thursday/Friday

I recently ordered 2 SAVOX 1267sg High Voltage, High Torque Servos:

[IMG]http://www.savoxusa.com/v/vspfiles/photos/savsc1267sg-2.jpg[/IMG]

I also ordered the following Spektrum receiver: SR3100 DSM2.

Both are rated for high voltage, so I am going to be using a ProTek LiPo receiver battery.

This should allow me to run the LiPo without a voltage regulator. Just need to figure out if i need a Low Voltage Detection Cut-Off switch. Thoughts?

Last but not least I also ordered the RC Screwz Stainless Steel Jato 3.3 Screw Kit.

considering i am out dated, rpm arms are good as u said u have them... for off road go with a soft spring and a heavier oil. depending on what you have. toss the sway bar, trust me.step down spur gear. we use to run an ofna carb, but from reading it seems there is a diff (losi) to run. get a traxxas d/c pipe and drill the stinger. do urself the favor and use a rechargable camera batt and put it in the front end, will help you steer. other than that.. i have won many a race with a jato on the dirt...
o i almost forgot.. depending on where u are running... change ur shift points. something tight... lower gears, lower shift point

What wt. oil were you thinking? I have 70 in my speed bandit, but it is very stiff. Maybe heavier with the 3 hole pistons? I generally just use 40wt and adjust springs. Also, I have a THS pipe and ofna carb on the shelf. Will probably use those too. Any thoughts on single speed conversion with steel gear tranny?

steel gear tranny won't last ... it's metal on metal with no lubrication. which spring are you using? i use to run beige front and i believe blue back with 35 wt in the front and 35 wt in the rear.

The Hot Racing hardened steel transmission gears are fantastic. You're also meant to put silicone grease in there.

[QUOTE=jarod_rodriguez;5131752] Just need to figure out if i need a Low Voltage Detection Cut-Off switch. Thoughts?

[/QUOTE]

Yes, run one. It will save the lipo rx battery.

[QUOTE=brett.schroder;5134015]Yes, run one. It will save the lipo rx battery.[/QUOTE]

Where do I get one? I am thinking that my SpekTrum RX SR3100 will provide this function natively. Just need to read up on it some more.

Does anyone make bigger shock towers? Was hoping to run bigger stronger shocks. I looked at TeknoRC but did not see any towers for the Jato.

Just started installing parts this weekend and got the servo's installed and realized that the stock Traxxas horns won't work. Anybody have any suggestions for installing horns that work with Savox servo's and the Jato's steering and throttle slides. The Savox ones I think are too big and will require heavy mod's to work properly. They do sell alum ones, which look nice but still not sure if they will adapt to the linkage style.

Nevermind. Looks like Savox servos are compatible with Futaba horns which are compatible with Traxxas. I actually got the throttle horn installed, it was just really, really right.


--
Nitro-J-Rod

Time for an update! So I have been working on this now for a few months and I am finally almost done. Just ordered the last parts today. Here are some images of the work in progress. Once I get the last parts next week, I will finish it up and post the final shots before I bash it to death. Let me know what you think. Here is the build break down as best I recall:
[LIST][*]Traxxas Jato de-anodized chassis[*]RC Screwz stainless steel screw kit for Jato 3.3[*]Spektrum DSM2 3100SR receiver[*]RPM A-arms (front and rear)[*]RPM wide front bumper[*]Traxxas red-alum turnbuckles (front and rear)[*]Traxxas GTR shocks with red tubes[*]Traxxas GTR dust boots[*]Traxxas tan and silver GTR springs (front and rear)[*]Traxxas Alum front caster blocks[*]Traxxas Alum wheel spindles[*]Traxxas Alum serrated lock nuts[*]Traxxas Alum steel CVD's[*]Traxxas Alum drag link[*]Traxxas Split spoke rims (de-chromed and dyed black) with ProLine Bandlands[*]Golden Horizons Alum front bulkhead[*]Golden Horizons Alum front shock tower[*]Golden Horizons Alum steering blocks (Traxxas ones on order, will replace later)[*]Golden Horizons Alum brake servo horn[*]Golden Horizons Alum cam lever[*]Golden Horizons Alum throttle servo horn[*]Integy 54T steel spur gear[*]Integy graphite brake disc[*]Integy steel braided fuel line[*]Robinson Racing hardened steel clutch bell[*]Robinson Racing titanium hinge pins[*]MIP High Performance clutch shoes and springs[*]ProTek RC ceramic speed clutch bearings[*]ProTek RC sealed speed bearing set for front wheels[*]ProTek LiPo 2S receiver battery[*]TRX 3.3 racing motor with Motor Saver High Volume air filter[*]Ofna carb to be installed after break-in (beast)[*]Savox SC1268SG Digital - High Voltage-High Torque servos (steering and throttle/brake)[*]THS Racing Jato Tuned Pipe[*]Traxxas Jato ProGraphix Body (to be painted metallic blue)[*]I am sure I forgot something...[/LIST]
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its so clean haha, so tell me once you finish this masterpiece, are you goin to baby it or bash it? i vote bash

Big Time !BASH! - That is why I picked certain parts up the front and middle to be Alum. Rigid/Strong and the outer edges should break if required.

Wow, someone's rich, haha. Looks great man.

I have the same servos they are crazy fast. I wouldn't use a metal spur gear though. The spur is one of the cheapest things to replace. You need a weak link in the drive train with a metal gear now the weak link will most likely be in the transmission imo. your Jato looks good by the way:)

[QUOTE=Jersey Jato;5163402]I have the same servos they are crazy fast. I wouldn't use a metal spur gear though. The spur is one of the cheapest things to replace. You need a weak link in the drive train with a metal gear now the weak link will most likely be in the transmission imo. your Jato looks good by the way:)[/QUOTE]The servo's are fast and expensive.
k
Anyhow, I actually stripped a metal clutch bell, without breaking the transmission, seems crazy, but yeah.

I actually have a steel tranny gear set ready to install. I am sort of modeling this off of my HPI D8S Buggy. It is designed with pure racing and speed in mind and not bashing. So I took the approach of looking for key areas that they put alum or steel on for durability and then modified a bit. A lot of the parts a plastic still on the D8S, but the plastic is really solid, more like RPM. I am sure I will smoke something out of the gate. I'll be sure to keep the slipper loose for a while. I want to get a robinson racing Gen 2 or 3 slipper next. That should toughen it up even more.

[QUOTE=Mind_Reader7;5163397]Wow, someone's rich, haha. Looks great man.[/QUOTE]

No, but I wish. The project started out with a free Jato chassis and then ebay and then it got out of hand after that. Motor was free too. My LHS owner gave it to me because someone used the power up program and he already had a ton to send back to Traxxas. I took it apart and it looked fine. Almost like the prev owner couldn't get through break-in and blamed it on the motor.

[QUOTE=Jersey Jato;5163402]I have the same servos they are crazy fast. I wouldn't use a metal spur gear though. The spur is one of the cheapest things to replace. You need a weak link in the drive train with a metal gear now the weak link will most likely be in the transmission imo. your Jato looks good by the way:)[/QUOTE]

Thanks Jersey Jato. I hope these servo's do their job and last a long time too! If they are worth the money, I will be switching my Revo and other Jato's servo's when they break.

Hey guys, I noticed today that my steering is very limited when using the RPM A-arms? Is this normal? I am looking at my street Jato (stocker) and it easily turns 2X what my new modified off road does? I can see that the GH steering blocks are hitting the A-arms.

Just curious what others are seeing with RPM arms and steering throw.

Thanks!

[QUOTE=jarod_rodriguez;5168435]Hey guys, I noticed today that my steering is very limited when using the RPM A-arms? Is this normal? I am looking at my street Jato (stocker) and it easily turns 2X what my new modified off road does? I can see that the GH steering blocks are hitting the A-arms.

Just curious what others are seeing with RPM arms and steering throw.

Thanks![/QUOTE]GH steering blocks might be the problem. Take a look as to what's stopping it, and bust out a file.

this was hapaning with my rustler and the arm was at too much of an angle for the steering to work

[QUOTE=Mind_Reader7;5168683]GH steering blocks might be the problem. Take a look as to what's stopping it, and bust out a file.[/QUOTE]

I think I see what might be causing the issue. THE GH steering arms are shaped a bit different than stock and I may have installed them upside down. I will flip them around and let everyone know.

Yep, had them installed backwards. All better now.

All Done!

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Time to crank it up.

BTW - the servo's are ridiculously fast. Almost too fast, but I guess we will have to see it on the dirt.