My 2238 Project...
First off I want to thank danielhr77 for starting and participating this thread:
I was doing some research and stumbled upon it... because of this thread I now have two 5 channel 2238's! One was 5 channels straight off, the other I was able to change from a 2 into a 5 using the ground to vss method.
I have a Summit coming in the mail on Tuesday that should have a TQi 6508. Since I have no personal desire to use the TQi, so I plan on trading and/or selling it for another 2238 plus cash; or two 2238's, depending on what I end up needing... probably two 2238's because I like having a controller for each of my RC's.
My goal is to have a remote that can control the following from a single remote:
Steering selector for PunkRC's Steering Computer
LED switch (Rx operated switch)
Fan switch (Rx operated switch)
and possibly a Horn, space allowing
To do this I would need at least a 8-9 channel Rx/Tx which I have found nearly impossible to find in Pistol Grip form. The few that I have found with more than 4 channels are extremely expensive.
Since I feel qualified to perform the procedures to convert a single 2238 into two 2238's in the same housing, I decided that this is a project that I can tackle without too much difficulty... as long as I have someone to help with a few questions along the way. lol
They only hurdle I have at this moment is where to put the batteries as I have chosen to place the board for the second controller below the original controllers' board; displacing the battery tray.
Here is a picture of what I have in mind for the finished product:
Subject to change, of course.
This is what I have done so far...
1) I have been able to convert both of my 2238's to 5 channel Tx's.
2) I have figured out the circuit board... to a point. I still have some playing to do.
What I need to do...
1) Figure out where to put the batteries.
I have chosen to place the board for the second controller below the original controllers' board; displacing the battery tray. One option is getting a project box to house a 6.6v LiFe battery.
2) Figure out the rest of the circuit board... how it operates the channels
3) Figure out if the Tx can handle 6.6 volts.
4) Figure out what pole/throw switches I am going to need.
5) Find a good source (not much of anything locally) for the switches and project box.
-plus more, I am sure. lol
Any help is appreciated!!
Today I was able to figure out how to wire the following:
Start = Center
Ground to ST = Full Right
Power to ST = Full Left
Start = Center
Ground to TH = Full Left
Power to TH = Full Right
Start = Center
Ground to RSW DWN = Full Left
Ground to RSW UP = Full Right
Start = Full Left
Ground to TSW UP = Full Right
Start = Full Right
Ground to TSW DWN = Full Left
Channels 1-2 have reversing, sub trim, end points, expo; Channels 3-5 only have reversing.
Here is where I need some help...
I cannot activate channels 4 and 5 at the same time.
[B]How can I get these two channels to activate together?[/B]
I assume that channel 4 and channel 5 can be on at the same time, because the 1/10 Summit has its front differential locker servo in channel 4 and its rear differential locker in channel 5.
I understand that 4 needs to be activated before channel 5 can be activated, but I cannot figure out how...
I have found out how I can get 4 AA batteries fit into the housing with the extra board... but I am not sure I am going to go that route as it would require me to solder wires directly to the battery.
I found a LiFe pack that will fit into the handle!!
Only 700mah, but it should work just fine... I'll install a LCD display for voltage. :thumbup:
I did some modding today and got the lower board mounted below the upper one.
TIGHT FIT is all I got to say... not a mm to spare!
Need to get my Summit so I can trade/sell the TQi for two 2238's and a set of Revo/Summit center shafts. Then I can start cutting my final case as I made a mistake or two with this one.
I was going to install the switch cover but I think it would just fall off all the time, so I am going to just cut out the area for the switch to slide on the next case.
Also, the LED hole is lower than it should be by a little bit.
Very nice idea but receiver wise what are you going to do?
Run 2 receivers... as I basically have two remotes stuffed into one case.
(thanks for making me feel like I am not just talking to myself here... lol)
This looks like a fascinating project, Jimmie! The cool thing is, with the LINK system, you can use this mega controller for all of your cars! The possibilities become endless. Please continue to post updates as you have them.
I will... no worries there. lol
I have been working on my PS project for the past few days... nothing Traxxas there so I have not been posting anything on it... not sure if I can. But, when I get it done I'll have a 24v 75amp 1800watt power supply with 3 power points and it will be fully portable with storage for the charging goodies... charger, paraboards, harnesses, ect. I have it all soldered up and working, just need to go to a friends wood shop to make the case.
(Mods, if you read this; could you tell me if I can post my PS project somewhere on this site? Thanks!)
I'm no mod, but you ought to be able to post it in the Alley (off-topic) forum, at least.
I just ordered a bunch of stuff:
2 - 3.3 x 2.1 x 1.4 Project boxes for the Rx/electronics
2 - 3.6 x 1.5 x 1.2 Project boxes for the Rx/electronics
(using one or the other... cheaper to order both and extras due to shipping)
5 - Push on/off SPST Switches
2 - Push on Momentary Switches
2 - on/off Rocker Switches
2 - on/off/on Rocker Switches
All the above is not just for this project, some of it will be used in another radio project.
There will be more orders happening soon...
One item is the ******* Receiver Controlled Switch (LUM-ONF)
Just got all my switches in!!
Not bad for cheap $7 shipping!
Now to fit up my "scrap" case...
I'd rather make mounting mistakes on the case I have cut up and correct them on my final case.
Well, this is what 5 hours of measuring, cutting, grinding, and modding will get me:
Sorry for the gaping holes in the bottom of the remote... I do not have my 2239 yet
Here are channels B1 and B2. I will make them even on the final draft
Here is channel B5; a momentary switch
This is the on/off switch for the LCD that will be mounted to the left of the switch
This is the 3 position switch for channel A3
Here are the on/off switches for channels A4 and B4
You can get an idea of the layout with this shot...
The B1 and B2 rockers are easily reached with my steering thumb
The A3 rocker is reachable with my steering pointer
The A4 and B4 switches can be pressed with either the pointer or middle finger
In case you were wondering;
"A" refers to the main Rx that will control the throttle and steering
"B" refers to the secondary Rx for peripheral controls
I would like to add:
It is TIGHT inside the case.
I had to cut a LOT of material out of the housing for the steering pot to get everything to fit. I imagine I am going to have to reinforce with epoxy or goop once final assembly is performed.
I have room for a few more push button switches, but definitely no more rockers.
I have added one more switch so now I can control all 10 channels that this will have when all is said and done.
Have you thought about a momentary on off switch on your grip. when you let go, the remote turns off, when you hold it, it turns on.
I CONSTANTLY forget to turn off my remote and consequently kill the batteries. I am thinkin' about adding this switch, if i can find one that is small enough not to bother me while driving
The one I have mounted in the third picture is quite small... the only way to get one smaller is to go with a micro; which you would have to glue into place and I would be afraid of it coming loose at the worst moment possible.
Unfortunately, there will be no room in my handle at all... I had thought of this as well. Between the battery that I will have in the handle and the wiring running through it, there is no more room; not even for a micro switch... it is that tight inside the case. Besides, I will not need both boards powered to run most of my RC's... just the Summit.
holyyy...crap. i wouldn't even know where to start with this! I like your ideas.. takes alot of knowledge:)! keep the thread going!
I have a friend that is an electrical engineer.
He double checks my work for me before I ruin stuff... lol
He said I should have gone to school with him...
He thinks I have taught myself more about electronics in the past year than he learned in 4 years of college.
I just ordered wire off eBay... too bad it was from some guy in Hong Kong.
It is going to be 2-3 weeks before all the stuff is here to finish this project. :thumbdown:
I am following your project. I hope it all out as planned! Congratulations on your ideas.
Here is what I was able to get done today...
(new radio came yesterday)
I am not 100% happy with the way the power switch hole turned out...
just a little too big.
Here is how the secondary board mounts in the cut up battery tray.
I have about a half of a millimeter between the boards...
I am going to have to coat some solder pots on the bottom of the main board with liquid tape to give me piece of mind against shorts. lol
I hope to have time tomorrow to get some switches installed.
Then I have to wait for wire to show up so I can start soldering...
Then I have to wait for the battery that is going to power this apparatus to re-stock...
Then I have to wait while it is being shipped to me.
I knew I should have called it a night...
I just cut through not one, but TWO of my antenna wires. :$#!!:
I guess it is not too bad... $12 eBay fix.
Cut out everything I could... now I have to wait on parts to arrive.
Thank you, oh great guru of radios!!
Any chance that you know if these radios can be fed more than 6 volts??
Say 7.2 volts? (A fully charged 2 cell LiFe)
I wouldn't, if you want to save weight chuck some high capacity AAAs in there.
The problem is... there is not room for AAA's unless I solder directly to the battery; which is something I would rather not do. AA or AAA batteries will not fit in one area, they would have to be scattered inside of the Tx... some in the handle, some in the base, and some in the top portion.
I am not using a LiFe pack to reduce weight, I am using it because it is the only thing I could find that will fit inside of the handle of the Tx. If I have to, I will only charge it up to 6v.... it will just not last as long.
I'm still waiting for the battery to come in stock.... :$#!!:
I've got everything else though!
Did a lot of soldering yesterday.
My wife's remote now has a switch for channel 4. I left channel 3 alone for now, if she ever wants 4 wheel steering I will wire it up and install a switch then. (because channel 3 is the only channel left with centering)
My 8 channel remote (yup, decided to forgo the frustration of figuring out the wiring for 2 more channels... at least for now) has all the switches soldered up and one of the boards. Just need to finish soldering up the secondary board and do some testing!
I ordered the wrong switches for the lockers... channels B1 and B2... they should have been SPDT and I ordered SPST, so I had to get creative and modify the switch into a SPDT. So far it load tested great... I hope I do not have any issues!!
There is a LOT of wiring going on inside this case... I really hope I do not run into fitment issues with the battery due to all the wiring that needs to be ran in the same area as the battery needs to be installed... :unsure:
I plan on using my ESC out of my MERV to power the Tx until I get my battery. I know this will be a pain... but I don't have many other options without spending money on something I will never use again. Actually, in the development phase of this mod I had considered strapping a battery to my wrist and powering the Tx that way... lol.
Well... I am off to solder and test!!!
I was able to get everything I have working together... now I need to wait for that slow boat to get here with all my other goodies!!
(and the stinkin battery to come into stock)
That looks incredible! Nice work, Jimmie!
I like it... field tested it with an ESC out of my MERV for power. lol Works great!! Just need to get the rest of the stuff in so I can really test all the channels I have hooked up. :D
your project, with the dual receivers, turned out similiar to mine. I combined a spektrum and a 2238 to get 7 channels. I installed the TQ circuit board into a radio shack project box and attached it to the bottom. I also retained the 2nd steering wheel and mechanism whole (inserted into the handle) to precisely control the rear steering. A bec helped with the dual rx power distribution due to the fact the spexx rx controlls the driving and the tq rx controls all the servos.
I had thought of going that route... with the project box on the bottom.
But once I found a battery that should fit into the handle, I decided to get it all to fit into once case without a box.
I am finding I only have about 300' of range...
Does that sound right??
Doesn't sound right... when you replaced the cut antennas, were you able to get the new ones in without any kinks? Are both wires going up into the short antenna part?
They were brand new in package... no kinks.
Both wires are going up the modified antenna housing.
300' is fine for the Summit.... but I would like to use this remote with my MERV, and my future MT4G3; both of which are fast vehicles requiring more range than I have now. If not... I guess it is not that big of a deal. I will just use this remote for the Summit.
The remote was at 5.97v... I did not check the Rx's, but they were powered by a EVX2 ESC.
I think I have found the problem.
A buddy and I got together this afternoon... I decided to repeat the range test since I was in a different location. I still only got 300' or so with the Summit, even if I only powered on one board. I continued doing some trouble shooting and found that the Rx's are not getting enough power. I used the project radio (need to come up with a name for it... lol) to control my MERV and was able to control it at 400'+ without any issues.
I am hoping a BEC powering the Rx's will solve the issue... but if not, it is not that big of a deal. I am usually going to be well within 300' when operating the Summit.