^ that is not a continous discharge, I think it is like half second discharge. That is how they come up with that bologna...
PM me if you like a link for more info...
[QUOTE=jamann;4998578]Seriously...... 900 amp discharge.just in case you need to do some trailside welding?even if I believed that....
I need to see pics of what your running that needs that kind of discharge
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
I'm also waiting for that... ;)
That was a joke .....not to say they are not good batts,but really the starship enterprise may need max amps (15000c batts....they must be getting a bulk deal.i was going to buy some max amps stickers to stick on my packs(instant 100c) but the stickers were $70 each so I bought more batts instead......lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[QUOTE=jamann;4998680]That was a joke .....not to say they are not good batts,but really the starship enterprise may need max amps (15000c batts....they must be getting a bulk deal.i was going to buy some max amps stickers to stick on my packs(instant 100c) but the stickers were $70 each so I bought more batts instead......lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
:lol::lol::lol::lol:lol: That made my day!
Ok, I read the forum thread on the link I received into my PM box. Thank you 87GN, very long topic but I now have a better idea about Maxamps batteries.
I don't have a 1/10 Starship Enterprise to power, then do I give Orion a chance, or do I stay on the Traxxas? I watched the GensAce and ***** but I confess still want to stay on a larger amperage.
You CAN get a 8000mAh *****... Should I PM you the link?
Yes it would be great. Because the only 2S 8000mAh ***** ********* dimensions I found are not compatible with the Summit (Dimensions: 166x69x35mm)
Oh, I did not think about that. Sorry.
Hi, I've received both TBR Bumper and A Arm skid plates today. I made some videos this afternoon, here it is:
1st video: unboxing
2nd video: T-Bone Racing 3P Basher Front Bumper for Traxxas Summit 1/10: mounting the front bumper video. Findings, comments,how to and more.
My daughter was playing beside me, you can hear in the background ^^
As you can see, the mounting instructions are wrong. But the pictures from the TBR website are OK. Therefore they have tp update the assembly drawing to match the photographs and what we should actually do in reality (mount the bumper UNDER the mounting plate and not above)
3rd and 4th video coming soon (A-Skids installation)
TBR A-Skids set : A-Arm Skids installation part 1/2
Part 2/2 coming soon
A-Skids part 2/2
Thanks for posting the videos on how to install the a-arms skid plates. It looks like it takes a lot patience to install these. Looks like they could of come up with some better mounting ideas. It would be great to follow up with a review of how they function and perform, ex: pros and cons.
You don't need lot of patience to install the a-skids. The problem was the video camera and the tripod.... I was not sitting on a comfotable chair in front of my Summit. I was standing on the left side... for this type of installation it is a real handicap. If sitting in front of your truck, you can do it in less than 10 minutes. If you take your time... And you can avoid filing because after tightening the screws, the coupling is excellent. I just filed down a bit to make it even better.
I'll make a review about how they perform later on.
New video: Tires, Rims and Foams
---> Pro-Line Trencher 3,8'' 40 series tires (PL1160 = tire + foam without rim)
---> Pro-Line Trencher X 3,8'' 40 Series tire pre-glued on Desperado 17mm MT Wheels (Black) (PL1184-11 = tire + foam + rim pre-assembled)
---> Pro-Line Moab XL 3,8'' 40 series tires (PL1119)
---> Axial Oversize NARROW Rockster Bead Lock rims AX8071 (black)
---> Axial Oversize NARROW Rockster Bead Lock rims AX8072 (black chrome)
---> Traxxas Canyon AT tires on 3.8" Geode™ chrome wheels (stock Summit)
---> Racers Edge Revo/40 Series Multi-Stage Monster Truck Tire Foam Inserts (RCE5372) --> DON'T buy this for MT Off Road Tires (except if Low Profile) -- I'll explain why in another video
Racers Edge Revo/40 Series Multi-Stage Monster Truck Tire Foam Inserts (4)
BE CAREFUL: these foams are NOT compatible with Monster Truck Tires like Pro-line Trencher 3,8'' 40 series, Pro-line Moab 3,8'' 40 series, etc... It is maybe compatible with LOW PROFILE MT tires 40 series, but NOT with off road MT tires like I have. I bought 2 set of 4 foams.... and I can't use the foam inserts because I miss 1 to 2 cm thick foam. I can't return the foams because I'm living in Belgium and the return fees will be too expensive (bought my A-Main). But the quality is very good, if you are looking for quality foam for 40 series on-road tires, or off road low profile tires, these foams will certainly be an excellent choice. I think I'll buy extra tires and wheels soon so I'll already have extra foam. That's the reason why I can't rate it with 5 stars, but also not with only 1. I give an average of 3 stars rating, but I am unhappy that the information is unclear on seller's webshop, I asked for support in Live Chat and was told that these foams were made for all types of tires 40 series ...
Here is a video that shows in detail how to mount the ProLine Trencher 3,8'' 40 series tires on the Axial Oversize Narrow Rockster Bead Lock rims. How to prepare foams. What to watch. This is a model of a tire and wheel often recommended on the Summit forum, so it was an opportunity to offer a tutorial for those who need it (myself included, I sought an online, I found but not with these rims or tires togeteher, so I found it useful to make one for the community).
Tires reference: [PROLINE Trencher 3.8" (40 Series) All Terrain Tires] PL1160
Rims reference: [AXIAL Oversize NARROW Rockster Bead Lock] AX8071 (black), AX8072 (black chrome), AX8070 (white) and AX8073 (silver chrome)
Sorry for the lack of technical vocabulary in English ... I did my best, the images speak for itself I think.
Have you left any parts for the rest of us?? I think you have bought them all...lol
When you are ready cut the center lug off the out edge of the tire. Just don't cut thru the tire..
Then I think Reath1 bought all the Summits...& Batteries.....lol
[QUOTE=87 GN;5000877]Have you left any parts for the rest of us?? I think you have bought them all...lol
When you are ready cut the center lug off the out edge of the tire. Just don't cut thru the tire..
Then I think Reath1 bought all the Summits...& Batteries.....lol[/QUOTE]
87...did you say you need to borrow a truck?
Or a couple batteries?
Gotcha Covered! But seriously....Scaniris has some parts there! I am really greatful for the step-by-step videos and detailed descriptions that he provides. Priceless to us "newbies" for sure!
OMG! You need a safe place to store all the batteries!! :thumbup:
Hey Reath 1 the starship enterprise went electric...they were wondering why they couldn't get any batt's...Now they know....LOL
i gotta say that is a impressive couple of photos.4 summits and 12,000 batt's ...LOL life is good at your place.. happy new year
to say the least
Thank you Scaniris for all the videos, being a newbie these videos are priceless with very good information! Keep them coming as I can't wait too see more! Thanks again.
I am here: [url]http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.133737,-74.776377[/url]
Thanks for your kind words ;)
Some photos made this morning to answer a question on another topic. Here is a comparison between Pro Line Trencher and Pro Line Trencher X.
IMO: the original Trenche is more like a 1/10th or 1/8th reduction of an original true tire than the Trencher X.
But: the Trencher X... will probably be usefull @ high speed with BL upgrade. We'll see.
@ 87GN: you recommend to cut the center lug off the out edge of the tire to have more grip when crawling right?
[B]have more grip when crawling right? [/B]
We (lol) the dog & I, went out crawing some rocks just a for down the road they worked really good. Try them first with out cutting them & see what you think. I made some dirt piles in the back of the house, tires work really good in the dirt..
O'oo & she found about seven mice under a rock I flipped over. That got exciting for a bit.
Good looking truck :thumbup:where is the dirt & scratches......:lol:
Pretty clean isn't it :) Yeahhh.... you'll see dirt and scratches soon. But before, you'll see the video I made this afternoon about the aluminium differential. Assembly step by step, filing of the I-Bar etc... I'll import, assemble and upload the videos in some hours before my new year's eve ;)
Scaniris I love the look of the proline trenchers on your summit and can't wait to here your review of both of them! I'm definitely going to get one of the two trenchers and your review will probably help me decide which one to get. From your pictures I like the look of the trenchers X, I like that wide stance.
I am here: [url]http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.133761,-74.776404[/url]
Yes but in my opinion, because they are larger, you may have some problems when crawling. Plus: I have a problem with the ''scale'', I mean the original Trencher is more ralistic than the X version.
Some people here already own and use both tires. You may ask them the question about performance in the real life. I can't say anything about performance because as you can see, tires are brand new ;)
VIDEO about the aluminium diff cup and the diff assembly.
1st part: introduction (presentation of all parts and tools)
Video 2/3:assembly of the inner parts of the differential, i-bar filing, etc...
Video 3/3: will demonstrate how to complete the full assembly of the differential, all included (screws, ball bearings, housing, locking, etc. ....). Ready to use. Except of course the lubrication!!
I'll make a 4th video later to demonstrate how to lubricate the diff with grease and oil (I bought different oils and grease and want to test and compare them)
About Trencher X and Stock Servo: WOW WOW BE CAREFUL. The stock servo are VERY HOT after some minutes when the Trencher X are mounted, PLUS the steering angle is reduced when crawling, the stock servo are not powerful enough for steering with Trencher X!!
I already read this warning about using stock servo with large and/or heavy wheels. I have now seen for myself, and I will follow the recommendations of experienced people of this forum, and quickly install my new servo ...
The traction is incredible with Trencher X, amazing, crazy and more. BUT you need more torque from the servo than with stock tires. No doubt anymore. My stock servo and my ESC were very hot after only some minutes!!!
Are you starting your own hobby shop with all those parts:thumbup:.... dadgum man.....:lol:
watching the diff build now..
Scaniris thanks for that information on the trenchers X as I'm not looking to upgrade my servos unless they break so I'll probably go with the regular 3.8 trenchers so they don't kill my stock servos.
I am here: [url]http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=39.133723,-74.776372[/url]
[QUOTE=Scaniris;5003306]What means ''dadgum''??[/QUOTE]
slang for //// man, with out cussing... filtered word ////
New video: how to mount the dust boots on the GH Racing aluminium steering blocks
Because you can't use the retainers from the stock steering blocs, you have to use the o-ring to maintain the dust boot. It's easy to do, just need one tool and know how to. Hope this may help some people.
If you do want some lube in (on) the pillow ball, use a dry lube like graghite, grease or oil will attract alot of dirt...
more parts?? I think you should have built a truck from scratch, (meaning order all upgraded parts & start building) A few more parts & you could have two trucks one stock & one upgraded..
Well it's exactly what I'm doing. I have parts to make a second truck :) Some are missing but only a few.
Ok for the pivot ball, I have very performan graphite+teflon spray , I use it on my mountain bike, dirt is not attracted on the chain, pinions etc... Thanks for the advice! I was talking about grease because with the dust boot and the dust cap on the other side, the pivot ball is normally well dirt-proofed. But you're right, I'll stick with what I'm doint with my mountain bike.
Well now this is the funniest part. End of this week I will start the electronic part of the upgrade program... and I will probably need some help. I have to install the Castle BEC on the stock RX with the Hiech Servo. I have to programm both Servo (with HPP21 programming interface) and the BEC (with the Castle Link, I received BEC and Link today :) ) . And I'll also have to install, solder and wire the RX8 + T8, also the capacitor... OMG, the mechanical part is ok, it's very fun and only a matter of patience, but the electronic... I have the documentation, I read a lot of threads about wiring, configuration and more. But this week it's not anymore theory ! I am stressed and I hope not to do anything stupid/wrong.
Progress of the project video
A short video about the HPP 17mm wheel hub with "secure lock" wheel nut and center nut for Traxxas Summit. Presentation of the kit + installation on my Summit (Aluminium steering blocks and MIP CVD driveshaft)
The difference between the stock Summit's wheel hub and this one is just... amazing. I also own a HPI 17mm hex kit, better than the stock Summit, but not as good as the HPP!
It's great to see how many small businesses are inspired by the Summit. It's amazing the amount of accessories available for this model!
I've received some questions about the Loctite Blue. You may use the 243 and not the 242. And certainly not the green or red products! The formula of the 243 is made for metal assembly. That's what we are doing here. Some people are recommending the 242 but it is not the appropriate product for metal with some oil/grease contamination on it (after a maintenance for example, you may have some lubricant on the screws)
Quote from the Loctite website:
[quote]Top Pick LoctiteŽ 243™ Primerless Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners between 1/4" and 3/4" (6 to 20 mm). It not only works on active metals (e.g. brass, copper) but also on passive substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces. It tolerates minor surface contaminations from various oils, such as cutting, lubrication, anti-corrosion and protection fluids.[/quote]
It is not absolutely necessary to use some degreaser fluid/spray before applying the 243, it is better but not mandatory.
You think the 243 is not powerful enough? Look at this example:
243 is for metal thread locking, vibration resistant, and you can remove the screw with a hand tool @ normal temperature. The product is already used on some screws into the stock Traxxas Summit.
Second question : the grease can be ordered by automotive parts specialists. It will be REALLY less expensive per gramm / once compared with ''RC'' grease...... and at least as performant, maybe (probably?) more.
I'll make a video about the different maintenance products I'll use (degreaser, grease, oil, teflon, electric contact cleaner,...). Branding is different depending on where you live, but you certainly know some automotive parts seller...