[B]thank you nice threat lots of info on everything [/B]
That is what I am shoting for.
[B]Is LHS what you guys talking about ? Where to get that nice thick oil that looks like clear grease[/B]
If you are talking about differential fluid & shock oil yes.
You can get that on line (Ebay) or [B]L[/B]ocal [B]H[/B]obby [B]S[/B]tore.
i have never messed with anything like that befor, i am trying to figure out what you need another servo for? are you using the summit locking diffs?
No Locking diffs that is why I went with the 700k diff fluid.
[B] I am trying to figure out what you need another servo [/B]
This is why: Torque: 403 / 486 oz./in. (6.0v/7.4v)
stock servo are 125 oz/in each total of 250 oz/in.
oh ok, so you are using it for the steering, you are just getting the power for it from a better source. now i get it. i was trying to figure out what you might want another servo for. i thought maby you were hooking up another servo for somkind of cool option like smokescreen or an oil slick, that would be cool though. based on what i found you are incorrect, check out this link. it says never do what you are trying to do with getting power from both batteries, only get power from one
[url]http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html[/url]. scroll down and see the "NEVER DO THIS"
What you are looking at is 2/6s batt = 12s / 44.4v, The BEC has a max of 25v or 2/3s.. What they are telling you is to not run it is series. In this case (12s) that in not what I am doing.. You can't put a 6s battery in a Revo anyway.
ok, i did see that in there example they had 2 6S batts and you are using at most 2 3S batts. just was not sure and just wanted to make sure you saw that before you did it. wouldn't a smoke screen be cool as He!! though.
[QUOTE=87 GN;4915749][B]Single servo:[/B] This one I might need some help.
[B]Traxxas servo Y connector:[/B] adapter (for dual-servo steering) P/N2046
[B]Aluminum Servo horn Hitec[/B] for Revo P/N 10374BK
[B]Castle BEC 10 amp [/B]P/N 010-0004-00
specs & wiring digram:[url]http://www.castlecreations.com/support/documents/cc_bec_user_guide.pdf[/url]
[B]Hitec HS-7950TH P/N HTS37950[/B]
"Ultra Torque" HS-7950TH is designed to operate on a two cell LiPo Pack. Featuring our high resolution "G2" second generation programmable digital circuit and our indestructible Titanium gears, The HS-7950TH has the performance and durability you've come to expect from a Hitec servo. Other features in the HS-7050TH include a 7.4v optimized coreless motor, integrated heat sink case, and a top case with two hardened steel gear pins supported by axial brass bushing.
The HS-7950TG has been designed for the most demanding hobby applications including the largest aircraft and monster trucks. Featuring a titanic 403oz./in. of torque at 6.0 volts, while still maintaining a respectable 0.15 second transit time
Motor Type: Coreless
Bearing Type: Dual BB
Speed: 0.15 / 0.13 sec (6.0v/7.4v) @ 60 deg.
Torque: 403 / 486 oz./in. (6.0v/7.4v)
Detailed Feature Descriptions
# G2 Digital Circuit
# Titanium Gear Train (MK first gear)
# Ultra Performance Coreless Motor
# Heatsink Case
# (8) O-Rings for Water/Dust/Fuel protection
# Dual Ball Bearing Supported Output Shaft
This is the link from way back [url]http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?525518-What-is-needed-to-go-single-servo[/url]
I believe that this servo can do 7.4 v. Post #58 This is how I am wanting to wire it up. Just not sure on cutting the Y Harness w/+&-taking out on male end. I think this method will allow you to still connect the ESC to Castle Link. That is why I am wanting to do this method. What do you think, Thanks for the help.
As I sent via your PM, the picture below shows how to hook a servo directly to a higher voltage BEC while allowing the ESC's BEC to power the receiver:
I've done that harness mod. I simply took out the + and - wires and soldered them together and left only the signal going back to the receiver. It really is that simple :)
Thank You BrianG..:D
It is that easy....:o
Tonight drive shafts: I am going to use the stock Revo CV drive shafts 5451X. I should be useing the Summit CVD shafts with the LT rockers. The Summit shafts have 2 long & 2 short, this is for the Summit locking diff's. I had the LT rockers on my Revo & it would break a front drive shaft about every other run. Went back to the P2 rockers & I haven't broke a stock drive shaft in months. I have a new set of Traxxas wheel hubs & nut/s 5353X I'm going to use or the HPI 17mm hub & nut/s.
This newboobie question comes up, taking off the wheel hub & drive shaft. First unscrew & take the M4/15 set pin out of the drive shaft next to the differential (first pic). Then simply unscrew the hub pin 5189 (4x13mm), & take it out. Then remove the 17mm hub. If the stub axle doesn't want to slide thru the bearing, there is a bur on the stub axle hole. File or sand the bur off & then stub will slide thru the bearing.
===The stub axle & the 5189 pin in the hole...
===The hub & pin installed...
I might have to buy the CVD's, we will see. I had a Summit at one time & I broke one of those too. I have a spare motor plate, I will see how much clearance there is, with the motor & the rear shock mount. I have trimed the shock mount already from the motor hitting it. Don't give up hope just yet of a double motor plate .:D
Just wanted to show how the HPI 17mm hubs go on. First put the pin in the stub axle hole, then put the 17mm hub on. Make sure the pin is in the groove on the back of the hub. Then put on the wheel, next put on the nut. With both hub nut/s (Traxxas & HPI) they need to be tight. very tight. If the nut comes loose it can strip out the rim. Remember the Traxxas rims have the tooth groove. So the HPI hubs will not work with Traxxas rims, unless you put the tooth grooves in the hub.
mod merge timed out......
Pic will explain this better than I can. But here we go, see if I get all the names correct..
5351 Slipper pressure plate & hub
5352X Rebuild kit Slipper clutch disk, (3) friction pads, spring, 2x9,8mm pin, nylock nut.
The clutch disk goes on the pressure plate, I put four orange marks on the pressure plate.
On the right is the alum slipper pads, on the left I don't know what the material is. There are several different material & types of slipper pads. I have the alum pads on my Revo for over a year & I like them alot. So when the other pads wear out I will replace them with alum pads.
Assembly: start with putting the 2x9.8mm pin into the hole on the input shaft 3992. Then put on the pressure plate & line up the groove on the back of the plate with the pin. Next is the clutch disk, then the pads & hub. Finish up with the spring & nut. It can be hard to line all the pieces up at the same time. Especialy if the slipper pads want to keep falling off the hub.
If all goes well this is what it should look like. "How tight do I tighten the slipper?" There are several ways to set it but, The manual page #24 says [B]adjust nut clockwise until the slipper clutch spring fully collapses (don't over tighten) then turn nut counterclockwise 1/4 to 1/2 turn.[/B] I have mine almost locked down. I would say it is about a 1/4 turn maybe.. As you can see in the pic you put an Allen wrench in the trans 3969 output shaft, & the wrench on the 4.0 nylock nut. Tight or loosen as needed.
Almost forgot the spur has to have the number of teeth side out. If you put it on backwards like I did the first time, the spur will rub on the gear cover.
Not much to it, take out the two screws, that hold the wing mount. Slide the wheelie bar mount over the wing mount, install the two supplied screws. The wheelie bar itself slides on the mount & locks into place.
=== Wheelie bar mounted
Nice build! I've found with my Maxx that the optional aluminium wheelie bar wheels, do help with stability a lot. Don't know whether that was something you were planning.
And they look nice! :D
[QUOTE=87 GN;4918713][B]The washer milled in the end of the motor mount does this makes it stronger less flex than being flat against the motor mount, [COLOR="#000080"] I did this to get more length in the bolt, for the nut to screw on further. The next size up bolt is to long. [/COLOR]
do you have an estimate percentage on what I lose in strength if I don't mill the washer in.[COLOR="#000080"]You don't loose any strength in the motor mount.[/COLOR][/B][/QUOTE]hallo
where did you get your bolts m4 .70x30 so I can order the two together, tower hobbies and my hobbies shop , liquid rc as the nut but not the bolts ..the only thing I can get socket head bolt and nut by 50 pack im up to over 25$ on ebayand I need a set of 2 or 3 only.
Tonight Gear mesh, I have the motor mount mod done, I am going to run the 775 first. Put a little blue Loctite on the pinion set screw. Make sure the set screw is on the flat of the shaft. I use to do the paper method of setting the gear mesh. This is what works for me now, I push the spur & pinion together until they touch, then pull the motor back just a little bit. I am looking for a little play between the two gears. Next rotate the spur to 90* & check the play again & @, 180*, & 270*. Spurs are not perfictly round. Take a little time to set the mesh.
Radio: I went & bought a 2.4GHz Link Rx 2218x, & the three channel Link Radio model 2239. So I can run the micro servo on the trans (high ~ low).
1) bind the radio & Rx Page 14 & 15 in the manual
2) Program (calibrate) ESC EVX-2 page 16 manual (set throttle end points)
3) Program (calibrate) ESC MMM Addendum sheet (set throttle end points)
On most Rx's the black, brown or what ever is the darkest color wire goes out. The out edge of the Rx.
Channel one has two slots for the servo wires. In the pic there is only one pluged in because I went ahead & put on the Hitec HS7950th.
Channel two is for the ESC.
Channel three I am using it for the micro servo on the trans high ~ low.
Channel four & five are for the other micro servo's, (or a glitch buster) .
Just wondering why you machined the hpi hexes instead of modifying the wheels to fit over the hexes. I think I am going to dremel the tabs out of the wheels to fit on my Losi hexes. Shouldn't make the wheel weak, I hope! lol
You can, I just did want any more slop in the wheel, then what is all ready there.
DIDN'T want any more slop. lol You might think about using the cut off wheel on your dremel & grind the HPI hubs, instead of the rim I think it would be easier. Put the hub in a vise & grind away.;)
Well I have ran the truck several times, just with the 775. I did put the Hitec on for a few runs, & that servo can really run down a set of NiMh. So I went back to the stock servo's, & run times are back up. I have my Lipo's but I was waiting on the LVA's I ordered. They just came in & I have yet to use them. I need to read up again on, which side is the BEC side, & how to test for it. The LVA is real easy to use, I think I will be using them alot, just to do a quick check of voltage.
I need time to put the MMM & a 2200kv on...:D
I was reading the other day in the Maxx forum, one member said he bought a Maxx because it looked like it has more ground clearance. Well both trucks are set on the inner holes, on the A Arm, & the Maxx has the Trenchers which are about the same height as the Canyon. I'm supose to run the middle hole with the LT rockers... alot of pics...
that looks extremely high!! did you also use the rod spacers in the rod ends?! that is what i like with the plastic axles... the steel cvds pop out or create other problems at that angle.
also does it stay there if you push it down? i guess not eh?
>> i was considering an emaxx body on the revo, now i see that it will look small.. doesnt fit nice the wheels i guess? what do you think? any other truck-style bodies i could use?
:Dnice and solid ,I think I got m5 the will nut fit on the bolt ,,,,not on the motor month there I have a regular nut tight against the diff . I got m4 and m5 bolts & nuts coming like that modification:D
No rod spacers.. The drive shafts are doing quit well, so far. I have been running it in the inner hole. I did a bit of climbing & crawling today, truck ran well: High, Low. The 700k diff fluid did't live up to what I was hoping, It is ok, but.......
The springs will lift it back to ride height, & I don't have very much preload on the shocks.
Truck bodys: ( I can never find what I am looking for with the search button) I have seen a thread but can I find NO. There are several different bodies that can be used..
I have been taking this truck out every night after work (SumRevo). One I don't have to wait to charge the batts (NiMh) & my Revo gave up it's gost. Couple broken A Arms, & a bearing went out on the trans output shaft. Some other bearing, & it just needs a good service, I was wanting to wait till winter. No such luck..
SumRevo has been running well, like in the last post the 700K diff fluid, still diffs more than I'm wanting it to. I have been running Trenchers & they are a good tire. I have yet to break or have any prob with the (Revo) drive shafts & the LT Rockers ~ inner hole. If I was running a BL motor then I know I will be breaking drive shafts right & left, been there done that..
[B]Revo: [/B] I have had some time to play with the alum shock caps & rod ends. The question was to drill or not to drill the breather hole in the shock cap. Well I did drill & not one but two in the top of the cap, one on each side. I couldn't get myself to drill thru the threads on the side of the cap, so I put them in the top. I drilled two smaller holes instead of one bigger hole. Hoping to help keep the dirt out. When I cycle the shock I can hear the air being pushed in & out by the blatter. Drill size is .037, I cheated & put the drill bit in a hand drill & put that in my cordless drill. Did that make any sence? I only drilled my fingure once.:lol: Right after I told myself not to hold the cap like that.:lol: I am using 80 wt shock fluid, & went with the Summit springs double yellow front & orange rear.
I am going to call them spacers, cus i don't know what else to call them. The rod ends come with two spacers for each end. I am assuming they go one on top & one one the bottom, of the rod end.. Of coarse I lost one it fell out of the package. Might have to make one on the lathe at work.
My Revo clean-up.
Finally made a replacement spacer out of stainless steel for the shock rod end.
Diff's have been reshimed, cleaned 700k rear ~ 120k front.
Springs Summit double Yellow front ~ double Orange rear.
80 wt shock fluid P2 rockers, rods set to the outer hole.
Summit A Arms extended, stock knuckles
MMM & 2200 kv still running 21 pinion & 54 spur on 2/2s
Did the motor mount mod
My latest painted body
I noticed a couple of things when I was taking it apart. First was both front rocker post were bent. Next was that the shock springs were rubbing on the body. So I found some washers with a .430 OD & drilled it out to .234 or 15/64, thickness is .050. I am using them to space up the rockers to get the shock spring to stop rubbing on the chassis.
===My lady sock over the ESC to keep the rocks & grass out
Your Revo looks great. Really like the paint job and the wheels.
Thanks charging my batteries now, go break it in...:D
What are your thoughts on the spring rates now that you have bashed them abit?
Double Orange 5.4 is what you settled on Correct?
Thanks in advance, I'm looking for a suspension change.
Old set-up Springs Silver front ~ Blue rear. 80 wt shock fluid..
New set-up Springs Summit double Yellow front ~ double Orange rear. 80 wt shock fluid..
Went for a easy run, everything looked & sounded good. Few small jumps nothing big, just an easy run. Went to blow it off & clean it up & the shock caps are leaking (all four). :unsure:
If you remember I took the blatters out of the stock caps & put them in the alum caps. I drilled two small breather holes in the top of the cap. I lost a little less than half the fluid. It looked liked the fluid was coming out of the threads of the cap.. So I took the caps off & measured them to the stock caps. Everything is right on. I am thinking I need to make the breather holes just a little bigger. If the air is not coming out of the breather holes fast enough, so it is pushing the shock fluid out of the threads of the cap??? I didn't want to drill the hole in the side like the stock cap, because of the threads on the inside of the cap. Also if I missed the placement it might leak. (hahaha):mellow:
Any ideas or suggestions.. thanks...
I'm not really sure what to suggest- sounds like the bladders aren't sealing properly when you screw down the shock caps; never had a leaky shock-cap problem before so I don't have any experience of fixing them like that..
Enjoying this thread, thanks for sharing, and really nice job on your truck!
In regards to this shock thing, that sounds identical to what happened on my MERV shocks. I had bought HR aluminum shock caps. They had holes pre-drilled in the tops. What happened is, after the air is expelled, there is still huge pressure from the fluid itself which would blow out this top hole. At first I did not realize, and rebuilt the shocks but after it happened again, I really took a closer look and noticed the tiniest little hole in each of the bladders, almost missed it. Anyway, maybe I could have soldered the hole in the cap closed, but did not use them anymore, went back to stock.
Thanks for the replys... Humm well that gives me a few more things to look at. Didn't think there would be a hole in the bladder. The leak is coming out the threads of the cap. Not out the breather hole, I drilled in the top of the cap. IDK yet
so how she going now?
like the build