You probably have it set up just right. If I recall, mine are 1 shim from binding as well.
You probably have it set up just right. If I recall, mine are 1 shim from binding as well.
What are shims and what are they used for?
Sorry, I am the new guy here.
[QUOTE=IRunMERV;4954314]What are shims and what are they used for?
Sorry, I am the new guy here.[/QUOTE]
Never be sorry for asking questions, only for not asking them if you don't know the answer.
Shims are little washers that keep the parts in place with less play so everything has less chance to strip.
1. I'm still a noob with the MERV platform, and I don't know the correct procedure of doing a complete tear down. Are there any guides and/or walkthroughs? Please don't say look at the exploded views, I'm looking for something step by step.
2. As I understand it, the problem is with the bulkheads, not the diffs, and Traxxas has released "new style" bulkheads? Is it recommended to get the shims or just get these new bulkheads? They are only around $5.
3. I have noticed the clicking sound once in a while. Can I still run till I get a chance to fix it or do I run the risk of destroying my diffs?
I just did the rear today. Remove these in this order:
2. Rear skid, and 2 last rear center skid screws
3. 5 screws on top side of rear chassis (3 holding the mount and the other 2 under the shocks)
The rear piece should come off.
New style bulkheads do not solve the issue... plastic still flexes enough to allow stripping.
It is more than likely you already have the new style bulkheads. They have been shipping with them for quite some time.
If you hear clicking it is probably already too late to save them.
Ok, so I am reading this thread and think that I would like to do this... as I have bought my MERV used, and can hear the rear clicking a bit. So, after reading posts on this thread, I would assume that I need to buy a new pinion and ring gear (part #7074). I checked with my LHS and they have it in stock for $12. So, I am willing to tear my rear apart but want to make sure I am doing this right. Does anyone have a picture or a diagram that would help me to better understand where exactly I need to put the washers at? I am sort of confused about that. I have tore my MERV down to the chassis in the past, and am good with that, the problem is I just don't know the technical terms for parts (as I have only been doing this for about 6 months) so, a diagram or picture would be awesome! Also, what exactly am I looking for when making sure that I have the right amount of washers? I see that some people need 2 washers, while some need 4... so I need to know when I can be certain I have it right. I do not have the stock drive shafts on my MERV, but rather aftermarket "T-bone" type drive shafts... but I assume that makes no difference. Also, is it likely that if I am going to shim the back, that I should do the front as well? Thanks for your help guys!
There is a picture in the first post... this is the only picture I have.
The tightness is the tricky part and hard to explain. It is more of a "feel" than precise directions. I have already described the procedure to the best of my ability. That being said, usually if it binds (cannot move the axle at all) you need to remove shims, one at a time, until you can move it. Then you need to decide if you should put one more shim in.
Most everyone has had similar questions, but they usually evaporate once you tear into it and see what there is to work with.
If you shim the back, you might as well shim the front.
If the back one stripped, I imagine the front is not that far behind... probably should either tear down and inspect before your 45 minute trip to the "L"HS or just by two ring and pinion sets while you are there.
Be sure to get a shim pack for each end!
I just went ahead and shimmed both my front and rear differentials, and replaced the pinion and ring gear's while I had it torn apart. Then, I took it out today for a run... and it was a WORLD of difference. All of my clicking went away, and I am getting wayyyy more torque and power then I did before. I can actually pull wheelies on my 2 cell batteries (I could never do this since I bought my car 2 months ago). Thanks for all of your help Jimmie Neutron. It's AMAZING how thin those shims are and how much of a difference they actually can make. I ended up using 3 shims in each bulkhead, this seemed like the best fit.
Glad I could help!
To those who 'solved' their clicking, how many shims did it take?
Every single bulkhead is different!
There is no such thing as a set amount of shims to remove the proper amount of slop.
Some have only needed 1 shim...
Some have not needed any shims...
Some have needed 4 shims...
Some have needed 2 shims...
Some have needed 5 shims...
Some have needed 3 shims...
I did not need any shims on mine, until I snapped a bulkhead. This caused a wear spot on the ring gear and now I have to replace it.
i have a question jimmie. i got some shims a new dif becuse i to mine up (i know i should have done this before) but as i go to install everything will 1 shim it binds bad then no shims im getting the less bind but the its still there what do you thing i need to do?
Check the three screws that hold the diff cup together.
If you are getting binding with no shims, something is not put together properly.
There has been a few bulkheads that do not need anything at first, but after a dozen packs or so they need shimming.
You might have one of those now.
A little more information...
Here is the size of the shims:
.324 x .409 x .005
Thanks to devildog88!!
:wub: yay me lol
Here is a video:
not mine, not English!!
I think the first time I saw this was in a post made by Jimbo....
The bearrings (front diff and rear diff) dont seem to want to come off and I dont want to break them, are they supposed to be hard to get off? cuz I want to follow your steps and I think its a way better idea to put the shims on the inside of the bearring rather than the outside where they'll wear faster.
(edit) you robbed my video I see :p
I used needle nose pliers to push them out from the OUTSIDE of the diff. Mine were really tight from all the crud.
There we go, I just used a standard kitchen knife.. Now I just have to wait for my stuff.
Here is another video:
theres a decent vid man
I thought so too.
shimmed mine today. the front binding with 2. with one you can hear the gear in a spot thats about 1/8 of all of all the teeth in the ring gear. its that ok. its not hard to turn just loud.
Should be fine.
I have the shims and looking to do this. Anyone have an instruction sheet/tear down guide to get to the point I see in post #1??
I'm guessing that the traxxas 1/16 metal driveshaft install [URL="http://traxxas.com/pdfs/7051X_manual_driveshaft.pdf"]HERE[/URL] instructions would do the trick....
remove body mounts, disconnect shocks, lower skipplate, and screw in the front bulkhead(when you get there), loosen rocker mounts so everything can slide off the end of the chassis, and dont forget to remove one of the screws holding the half shaft into the side of the diff going to the wheel.
If you get into trouble, refer to the parts exploded view supplied with your RC. Or use the "support" button at the top of the page to get you there.
If you want to tear it completely down to clean it while you're in there, make sure you keep all the screws organized so you know where they went.
The instructions you linked work perfectly... and also much more through than I would have been.
I ended up putting one shim in each of my MERV diffs. Two was too tight. Is this thread stickied?
It is not stickied, but has been relatively active since July of last year.
This should really be stickied. C'mon guys. It sure helped me out.
This is probably a stupid question but here it is. I built a 4X4 merv from my sons 1/16 Grave digger so i had to build the front end from scratch. how should i place the differential in the bulkhead? Meaning I see the pic of where the shims go but is that the right side of the bulkhead or the left side? Or does it even matter? I put everything back together last night and there is so much slop in the differential. Now i need to break it all down again and finally learn how to shim a differential.
The differential gear's teeth should be on the right hand side of the bulkhead if the flat end of the bulkhead is facing AWAY from you. The shims go in between the ball bearing and the differential. You should be able to slide the shims down the output shaft so they sit nicely around the shaft.
If you put it in backwards you WILL know when you go to run it cause the front and rear will spin in opposite directions, my buddy did it the first time he rebuilt his rear end :lol:
So looking from the middle of the vehicle, the right side for the ring is the right hand side :) That is how I remember it. Ring right on the right.
There is a lot of information on this thread... it really helps when the reader reads all of it... lol
I just broke down the front end and Now its in a pile of parts. Now that I have done this twice in the last week it took my no time, and definately no second guessing. I should be able to rebuild it fast once the parts get here. this site definately helped me with multiple vehicles. thanks for the knowledge!
Sorry to bring up this old thread but were do you buy these shims?
It aint easy.... bein' Easy ;)