3.3 diff swap "how to" With photos

Are the Nitro Pro ball Diffs any good? They sure do look cool in that blue aluminum.

They work they just are expensive. Thats 100 bucks to do your car. If you are thinking about drifting hardcore or for a shelf queen then I would say do it, but for high speed runs and bashing ......its over kill.

I am trying to get my 4-tec upgraded to the point where it can hang with my buddies xxx-s on carpet. I know it can be done because my 4-tec kills his xxx-s on the street even when his is setup for rubber tires.

I'd try throwing a 9000kv mambaa into it so u get that high speed out of turns.

Can somone please repost pictures or a how to on how to swap out the diffs?

i'm halfway through doing this. i managed to get a nitro 4tec chassis off a mate, so i'm swapping the suspension swing arms as well.

I've got the front in, the belt is quite tight. I can't get the rear in though. I've swapped the bearing cam adjuster things and set them as far forward as possible, but i still can't get the belt and diff in.

does it matter that it is extremely tight?

I havn't done the rear yet, but when I do I'll give it a look over and see what I can do. You might want to try a slightly larger belt but I think the stock one should work.

it still drives, but i'm worried about there being too much load on the motor. it's a brushless though, so hopefully that will help a bit. i might gear it down a bit if i've got a smaller one.

i think i might be limited for choice of belts. haven't really sussed out belts at the local shops yet, but i couldn't get a standard one off the shelf at one shop a few months back.

[QUOTE=project_uno]The Following parts you will need in order to do this swap
*#4628 X2
*#5119
*#4824A OR 4824 The A is for Grey version "Explain later on in the build."
*#4881 & 2382
Tool you will need are
*Flat head screw driver.
*Phillips head screw driver.
*Pilers

First off heres a photo of the 3.3 Diff part # 4881&2382
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/diff.JPG[/IMG]

First you are going to undo the screws on the bottom 4 total in front
Take off the bumper and then take off the two screws on the shocks off from the top on the Diff housing
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3522.JPG[/IMG]
Then you want to unscrew the Steering block on one side and the four screws on top. i only unscrewed one side so when the belt was loose i could move it around instead of taking it all apart.
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3519.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3520.JPG[/IMG]
Then you want to remove the two screws holding down the Diff housing.
You are going to see the old setup. u might be able to wiggle it out like i did. but you are not going to be able to put the new one in yet. you will need to Take the Rear apart to get some slack to get it around the belt. but before we do that you will need to know you won't be using the steel yokes anymore you might want to take the time to use part#4628 and convert the steel one to the white plastic yokes. use the tools traxxas has gave to you for removal you will also need to to install to the plastic type.
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3535.JPG[/IMG]
Alright lets take the Rear apart.
You have a total of 14-15 screws to remove the bottom 5 and the shock tower in back has 4. and you will need to remove the shocks aswell 2 screws and then the 3 on the side rear plates then the 2 on top near the front make sure you take the pinion and motor out.
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3529.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3528.JPG[/IMG]
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3530.JPG[/IMG]
When you pull it apart it should be like this
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3532.JPG[/IMG]
this is where part 4824A or just 4824 comes in handy. the Bearing holder plastic isn't big enough on the E-tec because you are using a 5x10 bearing so you need the bearing holder the rest is useless really.
You pop the old one "not pictured with a screw driver and place the new one in
[IMG]http://www.host21.net/nitroswap/100_3533.JPG[/IMG]
then you set all the belts back up and the shaft put the 3.3 diff in and put the 3.3 diff in the front. BELT over front diff before shaft same for the rear. screw Replace the screws where they go and Walla you have a 3.3 nitro Diff swap.

*** im am waiting on my 4824 part. Grey is for the 3.3 and black is the 2.5/.15 it don't matter what one you get. u are just using the bearing holder the rest is usless throw it away or sell it in MP


Mods please make sticky![/QUOTE]
so if you need 4 part #5119.will you need two 24824a or 4824 for the bearing holders?

ok, I found all you really have to do is get the 3.3 diffs and file down the extensions, be careful dont go to far on one side. No fancy bearing holders, what you have is fine.

you mean half shafts?all you need is 3.3 diffs.what about bearings.

[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14153410.jpg?t=1273878529[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14153446.jpg[/IMG]

Show a picture of the rear as well.

kk I just put it in ill have the pic in a sec

[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174044.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174020.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174007.jpg[/IMG]
and steel outputs are new :lol:

So you used the stock bearing carriers for the rear diff?

yes, i basically used high grit sand paper to remove the extensions and it fit perfectly, it took me a few tries to get it even. FYI pay close attention to which side the screws are on, that side goes on the left in back and right in front.

Or simply use the nitro bearing carriers.

ya but who wants to spend an extra $5

Well besides the $5 have you come up with a solution to the tight belt situation.

ya I had no clue why everyone was complaining about tight belts, they are all talking about swaping the whole rear end out. My belts aren't overly tight but they are a little snug, not to the point that it creates stess though.

Hmm Im gonna try going back to the stock rear bearing carriers to see if it makes a difference.

[QUOTE=4tec-Rally][IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174044.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174020.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af86/4tecrally/2010-05-14174007.jpg[/IMG]
and steel outputs are new :lol:[/QUOTE]
do u have te steel output yokes on the front as well

Steel output yokes aren't necessary. The stock ones are strong enough for even 3s power.

Ya I have 2 sets, waiting on parts to come in I ordered, I'll show you how it looks all put together with the 3.3 diffs and how tight the belts are. Steel yokes aren't necessary I just like the look.

ok witch way do the diffs go in .is it like the emaxx if you put them in backwards it will make the Emaxx go backwards

Doesn't matter which direction.......silly washington people with your silly sales tax.

I have found a supplier of S3M Belts that has a 55T / 165mm and a 57T / 171 mm and one of each on order , if either fits ok I will post details

Wow... This thread is perfect. I'm going to do a nitro conversion on an old car.

Me, too. I bought one and all I've done is paint a body for it, slapped in a lipo and a mamba setup. Fine for awhile, but now I have to gingerly apply throttle until it gets rolling. The diffs just scream if I whack the throttle. Gotta do the swap and probably get some new belts while I'm at it. Shoulda bought a carbon chassis for it when they could still be found. Near impossible now...

you need to do the mod to the rear side frame/ tension cam to get the belts to fit and not be so tight. you have to notch it at the red marks. this makes the belt just right and don't have to worry about tight belt. i dont have any more info on the mod. but you can find it online. i did it and it makes the world of difference.
[IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh264/schofieldmaxx/all%20RC/4-tec/notch.jpg[/IMG]