[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Natedog [/i]
[B]RE-TRIED all of the factory setting and traxxas directions AGAIN today and it still dies after only a minute or two of running!!! Will restart if you keep the glowplug going after it starts...but dies almost as soon as you remove the igniter!!! Doesn't matter even if ya rev it up and blast off right away, usually dies again the first time I let off the gas!!
I had this exact problem as well. I switched out my glow plug for a new one and it ran perfect afterwards :)
My engine seems to run fine when its warm but when i make sharp turns or brake hard my engine stalls, what does this mean???:mad:
I too had a lot of the same problems you guys had (after about 2-3 gallons, hard to measure since I also run other cars too). I use 20% Blue Thunder, and a sirio pipe. I was having problems starting and keeping running my truck. Utrns out I had a stripped clowplug head (where the plug goes was stripped). I tried to take the head off, but most of the screws are stripped!!!
I'm going to trade in my motor to get a new 2.5, I hope things are different with this engine!!!
i dont know who figured this up but if you go get a decent calculator it has a conversion from cubic inces to cc built in and the 2.5 is the same as a .18 it is not a .15 and no its not called a 2.5 because its a reworked .15 it is a .18 if you wont the true conversion
my apologies to you guys i redone my calculations i done them when the 2.5 had just came out and over the years must has not remembered them as i thought the 2.5 does come out to be a .15 with this in mide i am seriusly thinking of putting in my associated .15 into my tmaxx i think it perfomes better then my maxx 2.5 anyways
i broke my engine on top fuel 20% and i had problems then my friend let me try his sidewinder 20% and my engine runs great the only problem is have a little trouble tuning but working that out
hey, i noticed some mis-information here, and I happen to have some experience with the 2.5, sirio 18, and a few big blocks. The 2.5 is less powerful then just about any 18. Mostly because those engines are designed as an upgrade from the 2.5. You can generally assume that any RTR engine is not the most powerful available that will drop into the truck it came in. You'll pay a lot more for the money too.
More powerful then a mild big block 21? Uhh...NO. I haven't seen a big block yet that has less power then a small block. These engines are also physically almost twice the size as a 2.5.
About the leafblower, you guys forgot to think of the fuel differences...Gasoline is a less powerful fuel then nitro fuel. There's a good reason top fuel cars use 85% nitro, instead of gasoline...
There are some people that have converted these engines to be realy huge nitro engines. I think they were running like 8 horsepower.....
my 2.5r engine used to run fine, but now it doesn't idle high enough to let off the gas, because it just stalls, so I can't use the brakes without killing the engine. I've tried everything I can think of: Idle, low speed, high speed, linkage, servo, and combinations. The engine has also been running really hot and probably has about a gallon or so of fuel through it. Does anybody know what the problem might be ?
fixing the stall problem
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by rh2racing [/i]
[B]This is great help to us newby's out here. Anyone having problems with their smaxx, tmaxx or anything else with a 2.5 should read this article.
Just what I was looking for!
:D [/B][/QUOTE]I had the same problem with my first engine. If your engine runs for 5 minutes then dies, overheats, or dies after you brake, then there is an airleak. The most common place for an airleak is that little brass fitting under the high speed needle. To fix it, just turn it with needle nose pliers a tiny bit, and test it. If it doesn't help, tighten little by little until it does. Be VERY careful not to overtighten it!!!!
wuts with all you pple talking bout your sirios and your novarossi's...this is the TRX engine of the TRAXXAS forum, not the trinity forum...
but anyways ya, RCCA said the TRX 2.5 put out 1.33 HP, thats with the cast cooling head and the normal sleeve.
now think of the 2.5R and the blue cooling head, that thing has gotta be pushing over 1.5...thats insane for a RTR engine, any 2.5 cc engine for that matter...
i have a Revo and a T-maxx (hoping for a jato in a few months) and when the t-maxx had its stock engine, my revo would TOAST it in a drag race, but i dropped a 2.5R in it, then it started to keep up with my revo, i mean almost dead even...
the 2.5R is way quicker than you think, before going and dropping some after market engine in your car, take some time to tune it, if you gonna shelf it anyway, tweak with the needles, if you mess something up, it doesnt matter you were gona shelf it anyway...
yep, i love the 2.5R its a bit sketchy to tune at first, but you get the hang of it, then it runs like F1 car...sometimes i wished my revo or t-maxx had a 6-speed tranny just so i could hear it shift 5 times...lol
How does a cooling head add horsepower?
I will increase power by letting the engine run cooler and because it runs cooler, you can lean it for more power. (Usually only for racing)
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by ip42800ht [/i]
[B]I will increase power by letting the engine run cooler and because it runs cooler, you can lean it for more power. (Usually only for racing) [/B][/QUOTE]that's not true. you can put that huge acncm head on, and you can not safely lean it out more than you could with the powertune head.
I hope this helps.
From my own experience, I endured what many of you are talking about...the stalling...the cutting out at WOT...a lot of that stuff.
I'll describe my situation.
The first day I decided to run my car, I was having a lot of trouble getting it started. It took a long time, and when i did get it started, it was only when i was feeding it with the throttle.
When it did run like this...there was so much gas spitting out the exhaust...This meant it was way too RICH on the HSN...i Lowered it back to 4 turns.
On 4 turns for me, I found that the engine actually ran very hot. Hot the the point of over heating. (i live in Georgia) I think in the end, i ended up somewhere at 4.5-5.25 turns from out on the HSN.
The overheating was remedied by richening the fuel 1/8 turns until it stopped. (Overheating was seen by the steam coming from engine.)
So basically, my tips are. If you cant get it started, try from 4 turns, and run the EZ start until you see gas hit the carb. (be patient) Once its started...go through break in or if you've already done that...normal riding. Check for overheating. If it doesnt overheat, and seems sluggish, try leaning instead.
Gas coming out exhaust=Too Rich
Steam from engine or cutting out at WOT=Too Lean
These are easy signs.
also remember to make small turns...dont go and turn the needles 1 full turn at a time,
Be patient and diligent...when you get it running, you will feel godly.
By the way guys, you can lean it just as much with the stock head as you can with any aftermarket head. It will overheat, but it's doing the exact same internal damage, so it does not really matter.
after being in this hobby for over 20 years I personal have never had more problems withan engine than the 2.5. I still have a stock pro 15 in my original t-maxx and rustler. and they are very reliable. but both 2.5s no reliabilty once so ever. My 2 pro 15s and 3 hyper 21s run perfect. sorry for putting this engine down but in my opinion It is junk.:mad:
i use to have a problem where when i ran it for 2 i could get it to idle fine but after 7 min. of running it wouldn't idle if i didnt hole the trigger a little so i adjusted the lsn rich and that did the trick now its just about impossible to stall the engine unless it runs out of fuel!!!
i use a 2.5r in my maxx....i went through the break-in and now have over a gallon of fuel through it....i have had no problems whatsoever with this engine....its all about tuning....i live in rhode island and right now it is freezing here.....i dont have any probs...richen the LSN and then tune the HSN for performance... for you guys having probs during break-in....change your glow plug...i went through 2 of them during those first 5 tanks.... as long as you didnt overheat your engine you shouldnt have a prob with your piston/sleeve....change your glow plug and try retuning your engine....ambient temps play a role in the HSN tuning.... cold air is more dense and requires more fuel.... good luck....the 2.5r is an amazing engine and i smoke my friends savage with an XTM 24.7 pro everytime we race
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by revodude14 [/i]
[B]my 2.5r engine used to run fine, but now it doesn't idle high enough to let off the gas, because it just stalls, so I can't use the brakes without killing the engine. I've tried everything I can think of: Idle, low speed, high speed, linkage, servo, and combinations. The engine has also been running really hot and probably has about a gallon or so of fuel through it. Does anybody know what the problem might be ? [/B][/QUOTE]
Sounds like an air leak to me.
Since this is a tuning thread I thought I would put in some of my tuning tips.
Tuning tuning tuning the most asked question in the RC hobby. So I have put together some basic pointers on how to get your nitro engine running perfectly.
For the HSN (high speed needle)
This is the most commonly adjusted needle on any nitro engine. The HSN is what mainly controls the high speed. It is critical to get the HSN as perfect as you can. So this is what helps to get it adjusted just right.
Always have a good trail of blue smoke coming from the stinger of the exhaust pipe when you hammer the throttle. During a high speed run you should see blue smoke coming from the exhaust through the entire powerband. If there isnít any blue smoke coming from the stinger or very little than that means your too lean. It is important to not get the HSN to rich or it will flood out the engine when you hit the throttle. One good way that is good to tune is start off real rich and then lean it every few minutes of run time until you get it to run just perfectly then back off a 6th of a turn, that will keep it in a good condition for running everyday and having good engine life. If you lean the high speed needle (clockwise) and it started overheating that means you need to richen it a 4th of a turn and try again, just try not to lean the needle that far in this time.
For the LSN (low speed needle) and idle
This is mainly going to affect idle and acceleration. It is also important to get this needle set as good as you can.
If your idle is decreases after running the nitro engine for a while than that is a sign of the LSN being to lean, fix it by richening the needle (spinning it counter clockwise). If you seem to have an unsteady idle (meaning the engine has an unsteady idle speed) that is a sign of the LSN being to rich. Remember when you lean the engine the idle will become faster than it was originally fix that by turning the idle screw counter clockwise. If you take a high speed run and then let it sit and idle for about 5 seconds and then when you hammer the throttle and it is kind of sluggish that is also a sign of the LSN being to rich.
Airpressure's tips & tricks
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Evilpete [/i]
[B]might I also suggest you guys stalling when you're braking, check the idle screw that it's tight so the opening doesn't get smaller (or closes) when you hit the brakes...sometimes the screw is just loose enough for play that can cause this.
I think this is actually due to the throttle trim being off set. When your stalling out upon brake, check your throttle trim to make sure it is not of set.
With the engine off but the rx on, look down the carb and pull the throttle to slide the carb open. Then when its at neutral position, activate the brake by trigger. If the idle gap is closing a bit then your throttle trim is off. Adjust it a bit and check again till there is virtually no movement in the gap when applying the brake.
Then the gap wont be closing when you hit the brake, causing a stall..
I think this is the way you do it! I had this happen to me.
If I experience stalling, especially upon braking I always check the throttle trim to be sure its set so there is no closing at the idle gap when brake applied. If there is closing it will starve the engine upon braking!
[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by Kingfish89 [/i]
[B]There is an article on the new 2.5 engine( they dyno'd it) in the April 2003 edition of Radio Controled Nitro magazine that says the 2.5cc engine puts out 1.33 BHP @ 30,200rpm and 44.1 oz-in. @ 28,800rpm. They also interview Brent Byers who is one of the designers of the new 2.5 TRX engine.
BTW They used 20% nitro with 12% lubricant.
information source was Radio Control Nitro magazine. [/B][/QUOTE]
holy! 30,200 rpm!?!? do u know if thats the point when it wanted to preety much blow up??
I have had this problem since my first gallon was done.
Here I was expecting the engine to "wake up" as Ive been told around here. Only to find that I can no longer finish a tank of fuel without stalling.
After installing a new P&S, following the break in to the letter, the thing just dies.
Next thing I did was send it in to Traxxas. They rebuild it again, stating the front bushing was worn out. At One gallon and six tanks the bushing was worn out. NICE!
Then I broke in exactly as stated in the manual. Always following the after run procedures, every time I put the thing away. SAME PROBLEM!!! Then I took apart the carb, cleaned and lubed each and avery little peice. SAME PROBLEM! Then I installed new fuel line, replaced the brass head gasket, looked every where for a leak, all to no avail.
I have always used Top fuel 33% and Traxxas 3232 glow plugs. Which Ive gone through like 9 or 10 glow plugs. NICE!
So now my lhs stepped in and is working with Traxxas to get a completely new engine.
Heres the funny thing. The first brake in I didnt follow the break in that is in the manual. I drove it around mildly in sub zero temps. Only full throttle here and there until after 5 tanks. I never took a temp reading and didnt hardly tune at all. When summer came around I was running 5 or 6 tanks in a row without so much as a studder. All of a sudden it just started to suck. And it has sucked ever since. No matter what I do.
I cant wait to buy my new O.S. 18TM. This TRX 2.5 is just not a reliable power plant. Some may have good luck, but they must be gettin the motors that are at the top of the specs during production cause mine and many others suck.
[QUOTE]Heres the funny thing. The first brake in I didnt follow the break in that is in the manual. I drove it around mildly in sub zero temps.[/QUOTE]
You didn't follow break-in, and then you drove it in sub-zero temps (and I'm assuming made no provisions to keep heat in the motor since you didn't mention it). So to me, it looks like you're piston and sleeve wore out early, based upon your symptoms. I imagine you leaned it way out to get the temps up.
So then because you didn't follow directions, and wore your motor out early it's the fault of the motor?
[QUOTE]Some may have good luck, but they must be gettin the motors that are at the top of the specs during production cause mine and many others suck.[/QUOTE]
No, most people don't abuse their equipment as you have. If you drained the oil from a Ford Taurus and then locked the motor up running it without oil, would it be the fault of Ford? No, of course not. You were the reason.
The same thing applies here, as it sounds like you starved the motor for oil. Then you complain as if it's not your fault... :rolleyes:
See, thats the funny thing. I rebuilt the engine after the first gallon. Only because I thought it was having trouble due the lack of follwing the break in.
Since then it hasnt run more than half a tank with out stalling.
It ran its best that spring and summer, after I didnt break it in properly. The properly broke in P&S sets have never performed like the first one.
Received my new TRX2.5R over the weekend. $105.00
Look for a post reguarding how this one goes.
This will determine weather or not I stick with Traxxas engines.
[QUOTE]It ran its best that spring and summer, after I didnt break it in properly. The properly broke in P&S sets have never performed like the first one. [/QUOTE]
All engines that are on their way out will run better than those that have more compression. The piston and sleeve wear more, become loose and thus spin faster. They run great, but not for long. I have trashed two TRX engines and they both ran great and then stopped running. Both of these engines died at my hands by the way. One was my first Pro 15 that lost its air filter and got a large amount of dirt in it before I noticed it. The second was a 2.5 with 4 very hard gallons through it and a couple of deep redline sessions at the track. Thanks to the person that did not check the frequency board and started their radio while I was running! :mad:
All of my TRX engines have run great, been easy to tune and lasted longer than I expected. Tune and usage will dictate how well your engines run if you follow Traxxas' suggestions for break in. I have broken every engine in their way and not had any issues with their engines except when the temps here in the midwest go over 90 degress and the humidity mathes the temps. Those conditions are a nightmare to tune any engine in, including the OS engine I have in a 1/8th scale buggy that I have. To be honest with you, I think my TRX engines are easier to tune than my OS, but let's not discuss that any further.
Good luck with your new TRX engine. Follow the break-in procedure, use a good plug recommended by Traxxas and a god fuel and you will have a great running engine. :D
@smg323, Im not denying that my lack of nitro experience could be the reason the first engine was such a pain.
Like I said, the first gallon was a blast. The thing seemed to run like mad.
Im hopeing that this new 2.5R will be better, and renew my confidence in TRX enginges, cause I really want to trade this one in for the TRX3.3.
dead link on your post
the link is dead...please help with this link if at all possible
The link has been corrected.
I can understand those new to nitro RC to have a few issues and need help tuning, ect.
Ive had TRX nitro RC's for about 15 yrs now and in this same time i have owned atleast a few cars & trucks from all the other major brands...Traxxas is the over-all best brand out there. Are there other brands that might make a faster truck, yea..but who's will last longer and who will back you up with tech support,parts, ect?
I will admitt that sometimes with outside air temps and humidity nitro mills can be a pain to properly tune and keep them that way.....but they are not TOYS and they need proper care and tuning to keep them at 100%.
Ive wore out a few TRX pro.15's in my days......but im talking 7-9 gallons through each mill and running them HARD as it gets.
My sons Revo i bought him for this last x-mas is the 1st new generation 2.5cc mill ive gotten my hands on(been busy running big block buggys and other 1/8 scales) and i have to say ive had ZERO issues with break-in and tuning of his 2.5r mill....running 33% TRX fuel and very minimal adj. to it in 3 months in Ohio winter temps. This mill runs so well that im thinking the old pro .15 T-Maxx could use an over-haul to the new 2.5r.
I own many .15-.18 size mills of other brands and they all have their time and place, but again over-all Traxxas day-in, day-out out performs them all....IMO.
I will be buying Traxxas cars & trucks for many years to come.
[QUOTE=Kingfish89]There is an article on the new 2.5 engine( they dyno'd it) in the April 2003 edition of Radio Controled Nitro magazine that says the 2.5cc engine puts out 1.33 BHP @ 30,200rpm and 44.1 oz-in. @ 28,800rpm. They also interview Brent Byers who is one of the designers of the new 2.5 TRX engine.
BTW They used 20% nitro with 12% lubricant.
information source was Radio Control Nitro magazine.[/QUOTE]
Dyno's are just a reference point. Put the exact same motor on a different dyno and the hp and torque readings will be different. Even if it is made by the same mfr!!! Been there done that with 1:1 engines. That's why Traxxas does not publish hp #s.:cool:
[QUOTE=JoulesWinfield]@smg323, Im not denying that my lack of nitro experience could be the reason the first engine was such a pain.
Like I said, the first gallon was a blast. The thing seemed to run like mad.
Im hopeing that this new 2.5R will be better, and renew my confidence in TRX enginges, cause I really want to trade this one in for the TRX3.3.[/QUOTE]
Tuning is an acquired skill, Most catch the idea after there 1st motor. Others burn up either their motor, their wallet or both.
I have had my 2.5r motor now now 14 gallons through it and 1 rebuild. IT runs great. I have a 3.3 on the shelf ready for when this motor goes. I upped my nitro to 30% trying to kill this thing, it turned around and said thanks for the nitro and runs even better.:cool:
hi i got a problem here my t-maxx is acting funnny when i turn on my reciover and controller the carburator is normal .5-1.0 opening and then i try if the wheels can move it does pefectly now when i press the ez start the engine starts up and boom WOT i dont even press the gas and goes WOT please tell me what is the problem.
Howdy folks. Please bear with me, being new to the RC world, I don't know a lot. Have a T-maxx 2.5 with a problem. The slide on the carb doesn't want to close when you let off the throttle. Seems to be sticky. I've taken the linkage loose, and everything moves freely. Reattach the linkage, and it sticks. Could someone tell me what, and how to tweek? Thanks.
Sounds like you need to adjust the carb angle some. Loosen the net that holds the carb in place and adjust the angle to obtain smoother operation.
[QUOTE=rs4kidd]hi i got a problem here my t-maxx is acting funnny when i turn on my reciover and controller the carburator is normal .5-1.0 opening and then i try if the wheels can move it does pefectly now when i press the ez start the engine starts up and boom WOT i dont even press the gas and goes WOT please tell me what is the problem.[/QUOTE]
I know you prob heard this but reset back to factory setting on you HSN and LSN. if this does not work range test your truck where you run it to see if you are getting a signal interferance. i hope this helps and keep us posted
Can anyone help me? My 2.5 has been running great until this past weekend. What seems to be happening is that I'm geeting way too much air in the tank at 3/4 throttle and over. this causes the engine to stall and not be able to start again until the air passes. I changed the tank out and that seemed to cut down on the amount of air that is getting in the tank, but it still stalls out. Does anyone have any other suggestions I could try?
[QUOTE=cooldude3552000]The 2.5 is 2.5 cc, and if it puts out 1hp why does a 25cc leafblower engine barly put out 1hp, and a 43cc scooter engine put out 2.2HP???????:confused: :confused: :confused: :eek: :mellow: ;) ;)[/QUOTE]
Because (unless you're a mad man), you're leaf blower does not run on METHANOL with a 10%-30% mixture of NITRO METHANE :D
Try your scooter on a alcohol fuel with nitro methane and oil :) And hang on! Lol
I tried that once....didn't turn out too well. I ended up crashing!