blast flooded with water

[central]

Installed water cooling system in my blast. Was running fine for a few minutes. Intake and exhaust lines were clearly working. Though, soon the boat stopped running, period. Luckily my friend with his villain snagged the hook I installed in the hole in the bow and towed me to shore. I let it sit, then tried it again, but it stopped again.

Basically I found out my water cooled heatsink had a leak within it. Will be repaired in the next few days. The motor and servo both still work

My question: Anybody ever fill their blast/villain with water to the point that it stopped running? Any permanent damage to the motor? Planning on new motor soon anyways, but didn't want to be dry-docked for too long. Anybody have this happen to them?

Thanks!

Central

[Zember311]

I had the same problem with my villain, turned out the reason why mine did the smae thing was because the esc got soaked.

Basicly I didn't get too many runs after that before i lost the foward packs all together in the esc.

might be a good idea to take the plastic case off and brush it with acohol.

I can't say for sur eif that is exactly what happened to yours, but i thought i might offer advice.

also a soaked reciever can do the same when it is wet.

[central]

thanks for the reply, but still didn't really answer my question. How sensitive are the stock motors (540 stinger) to water contact and evaporation. Want to know if I should feel confident about running my boat after being full of water. And yes, I have allowed it to thoroughly dry.

thanks

p.s. The blast has the nautica esc in it. Different from the double heatsink deal that comes with the villain, so if it loses forward (like your villain did) then it loses everything!

[Menthol]

After running about 2 batt-packs the boat just stopped dead...

I had to replace the ESC!!

Is there way to waterproof the electonics? Maybe a waterproof reciever/ESC/servo/switch - box?

[ARC MotorSports]

I actually break in my sealed end bell 540s in a glass of water. So, to answer your question the motor should run fine. I would take the motor out of the boat, give it a good cleaning with motor spray (I use ABS safe brake cleaner). Let it dry, then take a good look at the brushes, if they look good, the motor should be fine.

You can now oil the bushings and reinstall the motor in the boat.

One more thing you can do before hitting the water is test the motor. Use a four cell pack and plug it directly to the motor, if it runs smooth and consistent, it’s going to be fine in the water.

Hope this helps.

[Zember311]

Is there way to waterproof the electonics? Maybe a waterproof reciever/ESC/servo/switch - box?

silicone is my best water proffing friend.

I have alot of boats in design where radio boxes just can't fit into the plans.

I silicone all seems on servos,

silicone everything on recievers, seem- around crystal-around servo plugs.

Even siliconed the Xl-1 - siliconed around the heat sinks wher ethe plastic casing was open, silicone takes alot of heat abuse.

[ARC MotorSports]

Even siliconed the Xl-1 - siliconed around the heat sinks wher ethe plastic casing was open, silicone takes alot of heat abuse.

That's a great idea! I'll be doing that later to mine.

[central]

Thanks for the reply, will definitely get the silly-kone all gooped up. Already epoxied the hull seams... was pretty leaky from the factory assembly the first time I ran it. Also noticed some of the wiring between the esc, servo, and receiver have been wearing down. Keep your eyes peeled for this!

NEW QUESTION:

Anybody out there upgrade their blast motor using the stock esc? Think I read it would only handle 18 turns plus, though some publications say the nautica can handle 17 turns plus. Any thoughts? Was looking at a couple of the kyosho modifies motors, 17 or 19 turns - double wind.

any thoughts?

[Zember311]

if you use a 17 double you will be fine.


I have seen them run well in the blast without problems,

[Zember311]

Just general informaiton-

Heat is the biggest killer of esc's

slower speeds make a esc hotter then if you are full throttle.

At stop there is 0 voltage going to the motor-
at full speed, with reistance in wires, esc, connectors your avarage voltage will be about 5 to 6 volts of your 7.2 volt battery pack.

little speed tricks are to make your own battery packs with 13 or 12 guage wires, good connectors help too. it's alot of work for a .5 or 1.2 volt increase, but it's done alot in racing.

those stock tyima connectors rob alot of current that could be making wake.

when you are slowly running your boat, the esc has too do something with the voltage not being sent to the motor, that is the transistors job, they release the unused voltage in a form of heat, true to all electronics.

That 17d will work fine, check for heat build up and just let the esc cool between runs,

never try to add more cells to that esc, they just don;t like any more then 7.2v dc

[NitroveeJA]

Hey everyone, we and my friend are modding out the blast completly, after 5 re turns with the esc from traxxas we gave up and turned to andy kunz best escs on the market right now.

Setup for the blast is as followed:
Team pirate.net hardware (electric)
Trinity p94 10 turn tripple
andys sport sc3 esc
8 cells 3300 mah batteries solderless packs
octura balanced and sharpened x432

With the above setup the hull needed a seriuse diet we took out every piece of plastic we could without taking integrity of the boat. Thanks to bryan aka gizmo... at rumrunnerracing.coms furoums this was all possible.

Waiting for a new paint job then we are hitting the water with our water guns.

I also just got done finishing up with the nitro vee setup is as followed:

Trx pro .15 ported turbo engine
macs .15 tuned pipe
increased water cooling and new water pick up
turn fins
x435
the hardware is stock for now i dont like the vibrations at all so im going to get a fixed strut and rudder system soon probably from marine specialties.

Well i will talk to everyone later... oh and arc motorsports im guessing you read the article in rc car action about the stock 20 turn stinger and how to add power, as did i very good stuff there.

[central]

Okay, now that you've got my attention with your mod's... you better have a link to some place I can take a look at it!

oh yeah, silly-koned everything in the boat... just hope it still cooks!! only about 10 pounds added in the process, laugh!

[NitroveeJA]

No photos becuase no digital camera.... :rolleyes:

but we are going to make a video which we will post plus we will take some stills from the video and post with my friends puter and scanner.

[Zember311]

oh yeah, silly-koned everything in the boat... just hope it still cooks!! only about 10 pounds added in the process, laugh!


Am I thought I was bad,


:D

[central]

Okay, so tomorrow at 7 pm is the BIG test! After the above mentioned soaking of my blast, I've since silly-koned (yes, I've trademarked that word, laugh) everything. Re-silly-koned all my battery packs, esc, servo, on/off switch, water-cooled heatsink, and intake and exhaust hoses. Also sharpened the new x432 prop and polished the new shaft. Final touch was the two coats of wax to shine up the paint job and hull.

Now, I better not get to the pond and have a reoccurence of last time... my friends blast snagging the hook I installed in the bow with his constant velocity joints on his Villain!

Thanks to everybody for their help! Will let you know the results.

I know you're all eagerly anticipating it! (sarcastic of course)

Central :p

[central]

ran the boat. summary: ran fine, slow at first - maybe weight of silicon, adjusted trim, prop cavitated, eased up speed, faster than before once on step. need to adjust water intake... all is well!


central