View Full Version : Mine's Busted!
02-21-2001, 11:02 PM
Alright, I'm drawing a blank. I need some help. My 4-Tec makes this annoying noise. The faster the car goes, the faster the noise goes. Its not like a clicking, its really hard to explain. I took out the rear diff. and it is really bound up and hard to turn, i donno if my diffs are bad or what, but it's made the noise since the first day I had it out. I figured the car needed broken in and then it would go away. Well my electronics have since fried so now I'm looking to put my new motor and ESC in, but I want to fix the noise first. Also, as I run the drive belt through with my hand, you can feel it build up pressure and get harder to pull, and then the pressure breaks and its easy to pull, but only for a little way, then it builds up pressure again, then it breaks, then it builds up again, over and over. Im thinking thats it but i have no idea. Someone Please Help!
02-21-2001, 11:38 PM
Check all of your belt pullies. I had a small pebble lodged in one a few weeks ago. I had the same symptoms you are describing.
02-22-2001, 07:57 AM
your diff is probably dead!
i use the pro ball diffs, because the standard diffs wear out quite fast when using a mod motor!
02-22-2001, 04:01 PM
That makes sense, but the only thing that seems weird is that the car has made the noise since day 1. I took it to the hobby shop but they said they couldnt tell me anything untill i had the car all put back together and running. Where can I get those Pro diffs?
02-22-2001, 04:12 PM
Are the cams that hold the rear diff set up at the same pitch?? i.e is your diff aligned properly?? Mine did something similar & I screwed up on the cam settings- the one was set way back & the other forward.... Maybe 'twas just me...
02-22-2001, 04:15 PM
Oh, another thing you can try: My diffs came pre-assembled, but the factory never GLUED the pressure plates in place like it said in my instructions, they were also out of whack & I stripped them down & glued them in place so they don't run off center & cause tightness at certain points in a revolution..
02-23-2001, 06:28 AM
the pro-ball diffs are made by Traxxas, they are a hop up for the Rustler and bandit! all you need to do is swap the geared part from the pro ball diff with the pully from your origional diff! The pro ball diff is loads stronger than the standard diff coz it is made for trucks! but it is also quite light! and fully ajustable and is also ballraced!
[This message has been edited by pooycow (edited 02-23-2001).]
02-23-2001, 07:54 PM
I've had the same problem except for the noise. If you want to stop the pressure loosen up your gear mesh it is probably too tight. As for the noise good luck because i have no idea
02-27-2001, 12:57 PM
i agree with was said about the cam settings which are the black circular objects on the outside of the diff, make sure the notches are set the same on both sides. second make sure they are far enough back so your rear belt doesn't skip under load. Third make sure your rear belt is not rubbing against your motor, try different mounting positions. third take out your motor and push it. If it rolls for less than 3/4 feet, then yur parts are binding and you may want to check the angle of you output shafts to make sure they are not rubbing against your rear arms.....clean your hub carriers bearings too... if none of this works sorry....keep trying,, don't give up!!
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