MIP CVDs?

[88]

I am thinking of ordering the MIP CVD kit for my N4TEC.

For those who have done this, two questions....

1. Do I need to buy one or two kits (#1462 Shiny CVD Kit/Nitro 4-Tec 39.00)? In other words, is the kit for just the front or back, or does it provide for all four wheels?

2. I have a broken differential output yoke (the little white plastic piece with the grub screws #4628). Does the kit use this or does it provide its own connection to the differential? I don't want to order these if I don't have to. If they are required, should I get the hardened steel version (#4628x) instead of the plastic one?

Thanks.

[Sike]

1.) yes. you do need two. They have them as pairs. (front and back)

2.) no. MIP CVD kit for 4tec do provide their own "yolk". You don't need to but the steel version.

While you're at it, (this is optional now) take your differential out and pack it with grease.

Caution on your CVD kit: becareful not to loose those 'couplings' or some people might call it as tiny hubs. make sure you lube it real good.


I have the regular black CVD coz the shiny ones were back oredered. It should be the same except for the color.

good luck

-Sike
>=]

[88]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Sike:

While you're at it, (this is optional now) take your differential out and pack it with grease.

Caution on your CVD kit: becareful not to loose those 'couplings' or some people might call it as tiny hubs. make sure you lube it real good.

&gt;=]</font>

Thank you for the response. Can you recommend a lube and also ... will I need to get some thread lock? Which brands are good for this?

[Sike]

the MIP CVD kit also comes with thread lock and lube. the white tube is the lube, the black one is the thread luck. MIP got you hooked up http://www.traxxas.com/ubb/smile.gif

[Sike]

also... $39? I got mine for $30. The shiny ones are $2 more. your lhs should be able to get you those for less

[88]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Sike:
also... $39? I got mine for $30. The shiny ones are $2 more. your lhs should be able to get you those for less</font>

Sike,
Yeah, I just grabbed that price from the MIP website. I have seen it for less. Unfortunately, none of the local hobby stores in my area stock much for sedan parts, so I mail order most of my stuff.

This might be a stupid question, but are there different grades of grease that can be used in the differentials? I have the basic 4-TEC, and have not taken these apart yet. Are the ball differentials any good? I wonder if anyone makes a Torsen for the 4Tec?

Thanks for all the help.

[Sike]

I too have the rtr 4tec. Have you tried asking them to order it for you? might be cheaper on the shipping.

My lhs want to sell me a diff grease but it's like $5 for a small amount. the container was no bigger than a half dollar and about 1/4" thick. Some people told me to use automotive grease. I use Castrol multi-purpose wheel bearing grease. It work well so far. I don't see what's wrong with it though but my lhs said it might hurt the gears and stuff. I don't buy what he said coz that's what this grease if for. -wheel bearings-

anywayz, those thing are no more than $3 at your local car parts store.

If you take the front diff off. You also have to take the bumper and suspension mount and disconnect some other stuff. no biggie, just make sure you mark it just incase you forget. I bought the optional 0 degree lower suspension mount so while I had it apart, might as well install it.

the rear diff is much easier though.

after you pack it with grease, when you have all the tires in the air and try to spin it by hand, it might not rorate like before. means the grease is doing its job. lubricating the gears. it like another break in for it.

for me personally, I would get the pro ball last. I ask so many people and most of them said the pro ball is mostly for bragging rights. it has its ups but if you're not into racing, don't worry about it. Even some guys that race here told me that when they race, they don't adjust it (the pro has been advertised as 'you can adjust during race easily'). sure, it might be easier but if there's no need for adjusting, why bother.

anywho, what do you have in your car so far?

[88]

My brother and I both have RTR 4TECS, with Porsche 911 Turbo and GT3 bodies from HPI.

Both are equipped the same, with the Traxxas blue header and pipe, sway bars, and 24 mm HPI belted slicks. We came to an agreement that we would only modify what we break, so that should be some good incentive to race hard! ... or not http://www.traxxas.com/ubb/smile.gif I think my bro is doing everything in his power to blow up his engine, so he can get a Picco or Nova Rossi (j/k) http://www.traxxas.com/ubb/smile.gif

He actually had a hard slam during our last outing, breaking the bumper, one of the front suspension arms, a shock, and one of the front drives/output yokes, so he is going to replace what he can with option parts....

This means he will have the CVDs but I will not!!!! Will this give him a big edge?

We also have all the optional gears, but have not yet installed them (I need to pick up some circlip pliers).

Oh, I have the graphite tie bar.... I guess that gives me a big edge over him http://www.traxxas.com/ubb/smile.gif

What does the 0 degree mount do?

As far as the grease is concerned, I would just make sure whatever you use is safe with plastics, because you don't want something that is going to be unfriendly with the non-metal parts of your car....

[Sike]

CVD are nice but I wouldn't say a big advantage. a good driver without a cvd can easily overcome the ones who does.

that's cool that you guys have a friendly, brotherly competition going on. not everybody have that.

I have no problem as far as the plstic when using this grease. I used it on my rear bearings when I had my RX-7 and the bearing set of those has some plastic and rubber on the set.

I'm assuming this lower suspension mount will make my car a tid bit faster on straights but I'll lose some of it's cornering abilities. Just like the 0 degree rear hub carriers. I find that callenging though coz you have to learn your way through the corners and use your cars corner slipping (I guess that's the term) to your advantage.