Off to a great start with 6S fun... (ha ha, not)

[Taco]

I got approximately 0.7 seconds of runtime with my new 6S ***** combo.

I had recently (Friday) swapped spur gears in anticipation of my new batts arriving... Well guess what yours truly forgot to re-tighten before excitedly charging, installing and heading out with the new batts!?!?

That's right! I noticed right away, but it was too late. The bearing was completely melted (it was now a nice decoration for the tensioner spring) and the little metallic balls from the bearing were all stuck here and there thanks to that grease they are packed in. And, I lost a clutch shoe. Just one. Gone...

So, it's off to the LHS in the morning I guess. Bet I check that from now on!

[candy76man]

I got approximately 0.7 seconds of runtime with my new 6S ***** combo.

I had recently (Friday) swapped spur gears in anticipation of my new batts arriving... Well guess what yours truly forgot to re-tighten before excitedly charging, installing and heading out with the new batts!?!?

That's right! I noticed right away, but it was too late. The bearing was completely melted (it was now a nice decoration for the tensioner spring) and the little metallic balls from the bearing were all stuck here and there thanks to that grease they are packed in. And, I lost a clutch shoe. Just one. Gone...

So, it's off to the LHS in the morning I guess. Bet I check that from now on!


Are you saying the metal bearing in the slipper clutch literally melted? :eek: You have got to post a picture of that.

[knik187]

6s is insane I just ran my *****s for the first time. Flipping over at 50+ mph and sliding 100 ft on the roof ftw

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... I know what you mean! I did this carnage in 1 hour on Sat night. I'm only running two (series) MAXAMPS 7.4 volt, 8000mAh li-po's. I can't keep clutches in this thing. I've got the "PUNCH" control turned all the way down, the "LAUNCH" control set to LOW. I've tried every way known to man to set up the slipper clutch and this is what I keep getting.

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/HPIM1187.jpg?t=1240281763

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/HPIM1190.jpg?t=1240281770

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/HPIM1191.jpg?t=1240281787

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/HPIM1192.jpg?t=1240281794

I'm working on a one piece Carbon fiber clutch set-up currently but have just now ordered a all aluminum slipper clutch eliminator.

PICS curiosity of "MISTERCRASH" :

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/6eab9fd9.jpg?t=1240281930

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/slipper_pad3.jpg?t=1240281990

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/451987fc.jpg?t=1240281999

PICS curiosity of "Oomp" :

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/SPURGEARPLATEFRONT.jpg?t=1240282130

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/SPURGEARPLATEGEAR.jpg?t=1240282143

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/SPURGEARPLATEREAR.jpg?t=1240282154

[Taco]

I will try to dig it out of the trash and take a couple of pics tomorrow. It was amusing, I must say.

HP Freak, that is far worse than my carnage. I commend you for that, my good man, for thy wrechage art gnarly!

I completely forgot to check the clutch today, and I remember it was barely tightened down Friday. The blue plastic from the bearing was intertwined in the tensioner spring, the outer bearing retainer ring was flopping loosely, the inner sleeve (collar?) of the bearing was still in place, but was there all by itself, and those little balls were stuck everywhere inside the dust cover. You live and you learn I guess!

[Taco]

While I'm thinking about it, are there any clutch upgrades I can do while I'm buying new stuff anyway? Any better, lighter or better performing replacements, especially ones I might find at the LHS (pretty well stocked place)?

Thanks guys!

[Seattle Slew]

umm, i am running 6S every weekend and have had no problems with the slipper clutch. Full tight and 1/8 turn back off. it works fine.

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Well I've heard of guys using the stock clutch parts but making a one piece friction ring from CF. MISTERCRASH has had really good luck with it. Others have used the friction disc from a T-MAXX's brake as a one piece clutch. Other have gone the slipper clutch eliminator. Some run the ROBINSON RACING Heavy duty back slipper plate PART # RRP-8000.

http://www.robinsonracing.com/images/8000.jpg

http://www.robinsonracing.com/traxxas.html

The T-MAXX friction disc : PART # 4964

http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo58/Neal330ci/rc%20stuff/bb74_1.jpg?t=1240290442

I'm going to try all 3 set-ups and see which one performs the best. Until I can get a slipper clutch to survive more than 20 minutes, I will have to wait to go to the two MAXAMPS 11.1 volt, 8000mAh LI-PO's.

[slowenuff]

I have to think that other components were upgraded therefore making the stock clutch fail.

[THE H.P FREAK]

I have to think that other components were upgraded therefore making the stock clutch fail.


HI!... Nope. I'm basically running a stock brushless set-up. Currently only hat 4S 14.8 volts.

[Taco]

Well, I got the clutch buttoned back up (went with stock stuff... for now) and got a run a little bit.

I had some BowTies that were tragically not taped. They didn't last long!

This is one of the front tires:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3992.jpg


Here's the other:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3993.jpg

They were ballooning like CRAZY, even under mild acceleration. I couldn't figure out why...

Then I brought it in since the tire was ripped and found this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3988.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3989.jpg

I suppose there was a rock wedged into this driveshaft causing the power to transfer back to the front. Needless to say, it's BACK to the LHS again...

It sure was fun while it was in 1 piece though. I mean the power was INSANE!!!

I loved it!!!

[Taco]

Welp, I have to give props to my LHS, RC Hobbies in Huntsville.

They had every part I needed, and come to think of it, they've had EVERY part I've needed or wanted.

Anyway, I'll be back up and running this afternoon. Bets on what breaks next?

[nitrostarter]

How are you guys setting your slipper clutches? I know they are supposed to "slip" to help protect the drivetrain. However, you must realize, these styles were originally used in nitros and brushed setups with not so much torque. With that said, lock the slipper clutch down, allow no slip and you wont have a problem. The BL motors will take advantage of a little slip and turn it into a mess!!

[moneypitrevo]

umm, i am running 6S every weekend and have had no problems with the slipper clutch. Full tight and 1/8 turn back off. it works fine.
Same here just full tight and never an issue. Driveshafts however I have been going through and they all break at the same spot.

[E-maxx Sweden]

So Taco, is the "clutch eliminator" the answer to the melting problem? and does it keep the clutches in place?

[Taco]

I don't know, I just got stock stuff and "locked" the clutch down as tight as possible.

I stated in my first post that I had forgotten to tighten it all the way when I swapped spurs. I usually keep it clamped and have had no issues, but all I had used was 4S until Monday, when this thread was started.

Now, as for the driveshaft, I was hoping that was a fluke and wouldn't be a frequent occurance. Moneypit, where are you breaking them? Mine broke on the yoke side of the U-Joint.

[nitrostarter]

Driveshafts do become the weakpoint. I just picked up some of Traxxas's metal CV shafts to run along with my RCM V3 diffs that should arrive today. Only weak point now is the tranny... and that space between my tires and the ground!!

[E-maxx Sweden]

Okey Taco, keep post here on your findings please:wub: :p

[Taco]

Alright... I need a link to that slipper clutch eliminator...

Grrrrrr...

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... Pm a member here by the user name "Oomp". That's who I ordered mine from. He said he made 10. There going to go fast. I'm going to order another one myself.

http://monster.traxxas.com/member.php?u=56181

[Taco]

If you would, PM him for me. I can paypal him tomorrow!

[THE H.P FREAK]

HI!... If you click on the link I left you in my last post, that will take you right to his PM page.

I just ordered another one for a spare. $17.00(U.S)

[Taco]

PM sent. Hope I got it to him in time to get one. I need it apparently. I fried another clutch yesterday on the stock Talons on concrete... What gives?!

And yes, the clutch was fully "locked down"...

[moneypitrevo]

I don't know, I just got stock stuff and "locked" the clutch down as tight as possible.

I stated in my first post that I had forgotten to tighten it all the way when I swapped spurs. I usually keep it clamped and have had no issues, but all I had used was 4S until Monday, when this thread was started.

Now, as for the driveshaft, I was hoping that was a fluke and wouldn't be a frequent occurance. Moneypit, where are you breaking them? Mine broke on the yoke side of the U-Joint.
LOL TACO I saw your pics and laughed beacuse I seem to be accumulating a pile of those little shafts with the broken plastic on them. Exactly the same place as you I am breaking all of them.

[moneypitrevo]

BTW last one was my fault I wanted to try one of those backflips on concrete. Well guess what it really works and looks awsome. Bad part on 6s it also snaps the driveshaft

[Taco]

I actually did a standing backflip with no breakage. I 'bout did a flip myself when it did landed. I was stoked.

I still haven't heard from Oomp... I hope I get one of those slipper-liminators!

[Taco]

:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Holy schnikes...

I finally got a full bash session in. I did several back flips, a few cartwheels (NOT on purpose!), some cool jumps, and a lot of getting familiar with the brushless power on gravel and grass.

Most of my harder landings were on grass, but I did have one particularly hard one on the gravel. I think I broke something, because this crack:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3999.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN3995.jpg

... wasn't there before.

I'm assuming I'll have to have a new chassis, but I don't really know what exactly broke. Experts, chime in with the grim outlook please.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

And yes, I am well aware that I cannot drive. Please keep THOSE comments in your noggins!

[Taco]

Well, upon tear down... Its not the actual chassis, its the 2 plastic pieces that sandwich the rear diff (excuse my lack of proper terminology, that's my noob-ness showing!).

So, that's good news, right?

[eemmaaxxxx]

Nice last comment!! Haha. That's major carnage you have there. All I can say is bad luck. I am just starting on my 6s MMM Emaxx build and the slipper is one area I'm worried about. Having said that I might just thighten it all the way because I'd prefer to repace driveshafts (cheap on ebay) than slippers.

[Taco]

I'll say this, the freshly rebuilt clutch performed FLAWLESSLY!

Anybody know the technical name of my most recently-vanquished victim? And of course, the obligatory "are there better-than-stock replacements" question?

[EvilDylan]

That would be the rear bulkhead. I have broken the front and the rear bulkhead myself.

[Taco]

Thanks, Dylan.

I see "bulkheads" talked about a lot. Are there any upgrades out there, or some bracing perhaps?

Like I said, I had a couple of pretty stiff landings, so I'm sure the break was justified, I'd just like to help do what I can to prevent it in the future, or at least make it harder to break!

[E-maxx Sweden]

Any contact with mr "Oomp"?

Regards
E-maxx Sweden

[Revo¹]

Locate the E-Revo build "MisterCrash" did, and he shows you how to reinforce the bulkheads by melting old bulkheads and adding the material to the outside of the stock bulkheads, and says it seems to help.

One thing to remember, is...do not over-tighten the screws that go into your bulkheads, as this will stress the bulkheads and make them more vulnerable to damage. Snug the screws up like normal, and then just give them another ¼ turn or so...if you see anything (plastic) deforming, you have gone too tight.

[Revo¹]

Here's a reply I gave to a PM Taco sent me, concerning the Revo bulkheads...


Nope, not a single bulkhead upgrade out there...no one makes a bulkhead except the stock Traxxas one, which I find very strange! After talking to a local machinest, and asking around online, they say the design of Revo bulkhead is so intricate that there is no way to make any money with an aluminum or even stronger plastic version, because of the high machining costs. Apparently, to make an aluminum one, it would have to sell for over $200 EACH, just to cover material and machine time.

[Taco]

Oh yeah. Got that ordered up. Should be here early next week. I'll probably keep it on stand-by until I fry another slipper, or until my curiousity gets the best of me.

[Taco]

Thanks, Chad.

I can't believe the costs would be that high, that's absurd. Hopefully, somebody will figure out a cost-effective way to make an aluminum one.

[moneypitrevo]

Here's a reply I gave to a PM Taco sent me, concerning the Revo bulkheads...
Steel would be nice and would hold up. Also it would be worth the $200 IMO as I have broke 2 bulkheads so far. The front if it grabs a small curb just right it throws the truck in the air and broken bulk.

[Revo¹]

Steel would be so heavy it's unbelievable! A single bulkhead would weight close to, if not more than, a pound! That's 2lbs added to the truck total, heh...crazy!

If an aluminum bulk was made, and it was made from billet aluminum (even just 6061), it wouldn't weight that much and it would never be broken...unless you were also running aluminum a-arms and had a major side-on impact that drove the a-arms directly into the bulkhead. If the bulkheads were made out of 7075 aluminum, then it would be unbreakable...PERIOD!

[slowenuff]

Well Karma bit me in the backside. Earlier in this thread I posted about not having a problem and today I cooked my slipper clutch. Whew what a stench! Luckily I rarely use my rustler and used the clutch pads to get up and running again.

[JU1CY1]

How are you guys setting your slipper clutches? I know they are supposed to "slip" to help protect the drivetrain. However, you must realize, these styles were originally used in nitros and brushed setups with not so much torque. With that said, lock the slipper clutch down, allow no slip and you wont have a problem. The BL motors will take advantage of a little slip and turn it into a mess!!

These NEED to slip abit...Not alot, but enough...I have owned several BL Traxxas rigs and have NEVER damaged any spur/clutch pack...And these were the factory plastic...I've learn't in the past that gear mesh and clutch slippage are important on how your rig will run...Everything is effected by how these two factors are set up...you'll toast your drivetrain(melted gears)...Where do you think that extra energy goes when it by-passes the plate when slipping??...First thing to go are axles(joints)...If you run steel CVDS, well you get the idea...Energy will find the weakest link and distroy it...I was more pro-active when I bought my BL ERevo...I use RRP HD spur/pinion combo...The tranny is already HD and I run stock center axles and Traxxas CVDs...My mesh is set up by just getting the gears to mate just so(Should be able to free-roll the spur gear into pinion back and fort getting a nice clicking sound...No clicking, the gears are too tight...Back off into they free up...Not too much, just enough so gears start to "click"when rocking gears back and forth...And fully rotate spur gear as sometimes you'll get a high spot on the gear mesh and it will be tight....Find that spot and go from there...Need to pick up truck so drivetrain rolls free(no binding)...Then for the clutch, basically, just go by what the Traxxas Manual saids...Stick an allen key into end of idler shaft(back side of tranny and tight spring down on bearing untill fully compressed(don't over tighten...Back of a bit and while holding allen key, grab spur gear and try to turn...The best setting I found is you should really need to hold that gear tight, but will slip...I say this because, I have found that different springs compressions result in different slippages...But I always go by feel...That should be it...Clutch is tight enough to give you full use of power, but it will slip when jumping/or any other drivetrain strains...Till this date, my ERevo has been drivetrain maintenance free...What parts I do break or the result of my poor driving...I run 4s and 6s and get the same results...[

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/ju1cy1/gear2.jpg

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll255/ju1cy1/gear1.jpg

[Taco]

Okay, so I decided since I had the whole rear section disassembled, I would consider taking the whole thing apart and dyeing the chassis. However, with my limited knowledge being a factor, I want to make sure I will be able to reassemble everything. I have exploded views of everything, but in the name of simplicity, is there a routine or method of disassembling the truck that allows for large sections to remain intact? For example, I had to completely disassemble the rear section due to the broken bulkheads, but the front ones are not broken, so can I remove the whole front section without having to take off the A-Arms, dismantle the steering, etc. I know I'll have to disconnect the servos from the linkages and such, but I'd like to disassemble in "chunks", not individually, part-by-part.

Any tips?

[Taco]

Well, I guess I got a little courage. Or stupidity... We'll find out which later.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN4001.jpg

Broken Bulkheads:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v305/Taco2575/E-Revo/DSCN4005.jpg

I'll probably do a "Dyeing and rebuilding" thread as soon as I get everything gathered up for reassembly.

This should be a learning experience!