View Full Version : mods to my slayer
08-22-2008, 11:49 PM
Ok I hated to do it as I was really disapointed with the truck initially and thought that it may be a money pit but I couldn't resist the temptation. First of all the major issues with the truck are the front knuckles, unpredictable sliding, unpredictable jumping, and finally unpredictable steering. Basically I could have taken anything and drove it around the track faster than this thing.
For starters I added a lot or rear toe in and some front toe out. this helped stability and cornering consistency but after my next changes I really need to go back to more of a normal setup to re free up the rear end.
To the hobby store! One traxxas center diff kit and one rear brake kit. I also picked up some dynamite pink jato springs and stuck them on the rear and put the rear springs on the front. I tried 60 wt oil and went back down to 50 as the 60 was definetly to thick.
The center diff changes the gearing considerably as first gear used to be the "usable" gear and 2nd was way to much for a track. A truck needs to be in second for predictable jumping or stay in first. Shifting on the face of jumps or in the air is almost always a bad thing. Well now 1st gear is pretty much useless and 2nd gear is good. I adjusted the shift point to get it into second pretty much imediately. The slayer is a totally different vehicle now, I can actually get it around a track at a decent clip, There is still work to be done but the diff makes it drivable. Instead of the rear end coming around unpredictably it now has a push if anything. A little thicker diff fluid may be in order, also as I said earlier readjustment of toe in will help also. The rear brake linkage seems ok but needs hooked into a different arm in my opinion as when you apply throtle it doesn't release as positivly as the stock brake linkage does, it almost tries to apply brake again at full throtle I think. The dynamite pink jato springs are 14 lb springs I think. They are to stiff but not my a whole lot. I dont have my manual with me but I am thinking that the rear springs on the front with number 3 rockers may work or else the next stiffer spring than the stock rears for the front leaving the rockers alone. The rears need the next set soffter than what I used. If I remember right I think basically 11-12lbs up front and 12-13 lbs on the rear, again with the number 3 rocker maybe a tad softer spring.
The shock changes made the truck jump much more cosistently. The only jumps I had trouble with were a set of double doubles that have worn to the point that the slayer isn't the only one wanting to nose dive off of them. The slayer does nose dive off of them worse than any other vehicle on the track though and there is quite a veriety, electric buggy all the way to monster truck.
On a side note I haven't poped a steering knuckle in a while now, I wonder if the center diff is releasing torque off the front end easier or if its just less crashes? its amazing how when a vehicle can get around a track without crashing 3 times per lap parts don't break as much. Traxxas really droped the ball and should have put the hop up knuckles on stock as its obvious this is a MAJOR issue with the slayer.
If you want to pop wheelies and do donuts the center diff is not the ticket. If you want some control and get around a track faster I have to recomend it. Its like a different truck now, My neighbor actually was kind of impressed after the changes, pretty sure he thought it was an egg sucker stock but not positive.
08-22-2008, 11:56 PM
The slayer does nose dive a lot I agree. The front knuckles are also a pain. Other than that I am happy with mine but I am not a racer although I did go to the track today. Sounds like your Slayer is a competitor now.
08-23-2008, 12:31 AM
It doesn't nose dive so much as the rear end gets thrown over the front I think. The result is the same though, lol. I have seen in some of the other videos posted where the rear end hops up on some stuff and the front soaks it up. I believe this happens when the rear end bottoms on the face of jumps. Atleast I can get on it now wihtout fear of it going all over the place, it bassically goes staight now and jumps most jumps fairly well. I threw an AE ready to run radio at it for now so I could dial out steering, I need to put a good reciever in it so I can run a good radio and run more steering but throw in some expo.
08-23-2008, 12:33 AM
That could be because there was a bump in the strait away at the track I was at and the front took it fine but the rear flew up in the air causing me to flip and crash.
08-23-2008, 12:35 AM
I just thought that those dynamite pink jato springs could actually maybe be about right if I could relieve just a tad more preload, maybe I will look into that tomorow, heat a coil and colapse it a little or maybe a jato possibly uses a different spring cup that isn't as tall, something, maybe even zip tie a coil together and try that without possibly ruining a part.
08-23-2008, 12:38 AM
Sounds like a good idea I might get some of the pink Jato springs for mine.
08-23-2008, 07:14 AM
I went and checked the packageing. they are dynamite pink "as in the whole spring is pink" springs which are rated at 14.3 lbs. the stock rear spring is rated at 9.1 lbs. The manual list 3 springs that are inbetween the two I have used, stock and pink from dynamite. I would say the dynamites are closer to the right spring than stock, atleast with the stock rockers. If you were to order springs or the store had them I would try either the stockred spring with the white/silver marker at 11.4 lbs or the red spring with the white/gold marker at 13.1 lb. All of this is dependent on dynamite be on the same page as traxxas as how they rate springs also. personally if the lhs had that 13.1lb spring I would get it for starters.
08-23-2008, 07:16 AM
I also have a strong belief that the #3 rockers will be the way to go for the lowest cg possible with the same amount of bottoming resistence. low cg= less roll overs in corners.
08-23-2008, 01:17 PM
Thanks for the info. A racer at my track said the suspension should be even softer than stock im not that sure though.
08-26-2008, 03:58 PM
after a few more runs with the center diff and some suspension testing those 14.3lb springs may be about right. I tried moving the battery pack to the rear of the truck to help work the springs a little harder and the truck was back to fliping over forwards most of the time so back to the stock location for the battery. I am certain that the center diff has the truck undergeared now so I have ordered a 17 tooth pinion. This should have an effect on the jumping abilities of the slayer as the stock 15 tooth just doesn't leave enough torque sometimes left in the motor, drivetrain, to jump properly. I also have found out the the truck handles much better the harder it is driven. I am talking about to the limit, it will turn better but its scary as sometimes it will push and you have to have faith that it will make the turn. I am going to try ofna 120,000 wt diff lube in the center diff to try and get a little better balance of power compared to the stock 100,000 wt. I am also going to try 50,000 in the front diff to help "catch" the rear end on exit of the turns a little more predictably. Haven't poped a pivot ball in a while now which is strange as they should be stretched since one side poped once and the other twice. Honestly I think the center diff has played a roll in this not happening latelyl.
08-26-2008, 04:03 PM
I could see the stock springs working on a well groomed track possibly but from my testing the rear end just bottoms out to frequently and tosses the truck all over the place. My pink jato springs are much better than stock although not the best answer, in my opinion there will be a better combination of parts that will perform much better all around, just haven't found them yet.
what is the part number for the hopped up knuckles? looking at the parts list, isn't it the 5334Rs, which I think are on the vehicle?
08-26-2008, 07:08 PM
Im not 100% sure but the better ones are supposed to have a steel ring ive heard. I have seen no steel ring to help hold the pivot balls in on the ones on my truck.
08-26-2008, 08:29 PM
5334R is the Optional Knuckles, the stockers are 5334.
Does the E-revo come with these new knuckles?
08-26-2008, 09:17 PM
Does the E-revo come with these new knuckles?
No it doesn't come stock w/ them, but I would upgrade to them ASAP. The only truck stock w/ them is the revo platinum.
PS 50wt front w/ silver springs and 60wt rear with blue or purple springs is perfect for the erevo, I would say 40wt front and 50wt rear for the Slayer would be perfect. I would use the lowest revo springs for the front (yellow) and the revo (white) for the rears. This should be perfect for the track. The tires are going to be an issue, when they peel I would get 17mm adapters (traxxas) and run proline 1/8 buggy wheels (holeshots or similar). With those tires you will see a truly amazing difference in performance on the track. I would go w/ the Tekno sways over the traxxas sways as well.. much better performance, expecially on a dirt track.
08-26-2008, 11:09 PM
Hey after you put stiffer springs on your slayer did still bottom out at all? I just put stiffer springs and 50wt. in mine but I have"nt drove it yet
08-27-2008, 02:08 PM
Does the E-revo come with these new knuckles?
Actually, the E-Revo and the new 3.3 Revo (#5308) both come with the updated knuckles. The way to tell if you have them (without taking the truck apart) is to look at the plastic clip that keeps the boot on. If it's blue, is has the new knuckles with the metal ring. If it's black, it's the original one without the metal ring.
08-28-2008, 08:25 AM
Some good info here. I sent Traxxas an e-mail a while back about the center diff kit and they said it will not work with the Slayer. Guess it does though.
08-28-2008, 04:15 PM
it works fine, it just changes the gearing pretty drastically but since they had it overgeared stock in my opinion it does ok with just the diff and making it shift instantly into second gear. I put a 17tooth pinion on yesterday and it was much better, pretty close actually for a track but still shifting just about instantly but thats the way I have always liked two speeds to be.
08-28-2008, 04:18 PM
yes it still bottoms out. I don't worry about a vehicle bottoming out as long as it handles. Most rc's set up to go fast will bottom out more than one would think. Could I crank down some preload a and make it not bottom, most likely. I have a few new parts to work on and test tonight hopefully if the track isn't to wet, we finally have some rain.
08-28-2008, 04:26 PM
50 wt didn't let the suspension soak up any of the small bumps on the track well at all. with 30 up front and 40 in the rear along with the #3 rockers it did appear to be handling the best yet but there is still a lot of room for improvement. Im a noobie with 1/8th 4x4 except for monster trucks. I had a old ofna used years ago but I can see and did see with the old ofna how critical tires front and rear are to handling. I know that on certain surfaces, such as dirty concrete, the slayer handles pretty good. It leads me to believe that as the tires wear out handling might actually improve as the truck might slide around more consistently. Less traction doesn't sound good but I think buggies and the slayer need the perfect amount of traction for the surface. I know watching big races with 1/8th buggies they slide around the corners consistently while on the gas and tires choices are the biggest thing to get them to do it. electric 4x4's might as well come with slicks for rear tires. lol
08-29-2008, 06:24 PM
well you all can laugh if you want but here is what I have done as of late. As far as suspension I put the #3 rockers on but didn't install the pushrod spacers, the theory is that to much down travel will just help to push the inside of the truck up and over in the turns, same theory associated ussed on the old rc10gt. I have played with preload and oils but I am really believing that the front needs slightly stiffer springs than what I have on there now which is the stock rear springs. On the rear I still have the dynamite jato springs at 14.3 lbs. I think those need to be a little stiffer also, how much im not sure. I have played with camber, toe, ride hight, but in the end the truck rolls over in the turns way to much. Well I bit the bullet because I wasn't happy with it rolling over and took the tires to the bench grinder! Forward traction didn't suffer at all but guess what, not one roll over in two tanks of fuel, not even a going up on the outside wheels and barley saving it! What I did was round off the edges of tires on both side on the rear and just the outside edge on the front. After testing this I wound up removing about 3/5ths of the tread from the rear tire everywhere. So depending on the track surfaces your runing on worn out tires, ground tires, 1/8th buggy tires, or if or when proline makes some choices available the handling will drastically improve for the slayer.
08-31-2008, 12:19 PM
well after several tanks yesterday I came to the conclusion that the suspension was worse after installing the new rockers. I went ahead and installed the spacers for the pushrods and this got the truck jumping and soaking up imperfections in the track once again but with the raised ride height it was back to rolling over way to much. This morning I took the tires back to the grinder and now have very smooth sides on the rear tires with about 1/8th of the tread left in the middle. I rounded both sides on the fronts and have about half of the tread. This helped out a bunch but still rolled over some. I cleaned my tires and applied a coating of ca glue to the sidewall on the outer edge and about a third of the way onto the tread area. This has the truck handling much much better. I know it sounds crazy but what good are the stock tires if the truck tics you off to no end and you are ready to shelf it? Yes I could by buggy tires and rims and adapters but if the stock tires are going to be useless may as well try to make them work. I made my slash rear tires get more traction by grooving them.
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