View Full Version : HV-Maxx Cooling
05-30-2005, 11:58 AM
My Maxx is geared at 72/16 and I keep overheating my Novak ESC when bashing....does anyone have any ideas on how to keep this system cool? I have not taken note on which lights are blinking when the ESC thermals....but what have you guys done to keep this system cool? Thanks.
t to the maxxOG
05-30-2005, 12:55 PM
Novak actualy makes a fan just to cool their hv (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUR6&P=7)
05-30-2005, 03:59 PM
a fan should have came with your HV-maxx
05-31-2005, 10:11 AM
Yeah, I have had the fan installed on the ESC since day one, but I still thermal about 7-8 minutes into a run...I have since drilled more holes in the windshield of the body to see if that will help but have not had a chance to run it as of yet. Anybody else experiencing thermal shut down with the HV? If so, post any remedies you may have found for it. Thanks.
05-31-2005, 12:59 PM
Do you have something binding somewhere. You should not be thermalling, I run the exact same gearing(In Florida) and the esc stays cool to the touch. The motor is warm but the the esc is cool. YOu must have something adding stress to the system. Does everything spin freely? I even was running on grass and it still didn't get above slightly warm, nothing like the EVX would get.
So possibly there is a problem with your system if there is nothing binding.
05-31-2005, 06:35 PM
I would check to make sure all your driveshafts and such are spinning freely, your motor isn't being blocked anywhere, your wires are all not extremely tangled (wouldn't affect it too much, but who knows) and maybe even check to make sure your servos are working without too much resistance. If everything appears fine, I would talk to Novak by calling them.
05-31-2005, 08:20 PM
Yeah, I've checked everything for binding/extra stress....everything moves very freely. I've had the system for about 14 runs or so, and it didn't start thermaling until about the last 4-5 runs...the the heatsinks on the motor are very, very hot, so hot I cannot touch it for more than a split second. My pinion/spur mesh is nice and free with a very small amount of play in it. It will do this even when the ambient temperature outside is as low as 50 degress or so, running it at night. So, with that being said...I think there could be a problem with the system itself? Did any of you have to blow some extra holes in the body to increase airflow across the motor and ESC? Thanks.
05-31-2005, 09:00 PM
If there is no binding or other stress on the motor, when you hold the vehicle in the air do all 4 wheels have the same power? Maybe diff is seized up, It sounds like a problem with the unit then. Like I said, I'm in Florida where it gets very hot and my esc is cooler than the air at 16/72 gearing. Your not running jumbo kongs or anything like that. Is your truck super heavy? If the answer is no to all these questions, then call novak, they are great. If they can't figure it out over the phone they'll send you a new one or fix yours. No worries.
05-31-2005, 09:26 PM
Yeah, I've checked everything...when I put the HV in, I did a complete overhaul on it, including tranny rebuild, new lightweight input shaft, new idlers, widemaxx conversion, reoiled shocked, regreased diffs, new drivelines, and centershafts, etc, etc....thanks for the help, it sounds like I'll be calling Novak tommorrow...
06-01-2005, 12:09 AM
I had the same problems with the HV as you are describing. Mine ended up with locked rotor detection, and I just haven't found the time to remove the motor/esc from the truck to send it back to Novak with the required paperwork.
06-01-2005, 01:42 AM
Thanks for the reply. Would yours run for a short time before it would shut down? Mine will run for about 8 minutes, then start shutting down, and glitch a bit...did yours act the same way?
06-01-2005, 07:58 AM
I'm using 7cell GP3700 packs in dirt and grass just bashing and no racing. I have Bow Tie tires and stock. I tried comparing both sets of tires. The results were always the same, motor thermal condition as reported from the light diagnostic on the ESC. Only once did it report ESC thermal. I tried many gearing combinations ranging from stock 18/66 to 16/72. I also started to use the strobe slipper with Mod1 gears at 12/51. That put me in the middle of the 32pitch I had tried. I was going to take some temperature readings before calling Novak, but the HV stopped running shortly after I started running it. Mine is still under warranty, and I am hopeful that Novak will repair it as such.
I'd suggest taking the temp of the ESC and motor when it thermals and keep track of the time. As mentioned in another thread, that should help determine if it is a sensor problem or something else. When I called Novak, it took a couple of tries before I actually got to speak to someone, and they simply said to fill out the paperwork and send the unit in to them. I'm gonna put my Titans/EVX back in while the HV is out for repair/replacement.
06-02-2005, 03:13 AM
I did some more testing today...I found out that the BLUE and AMBER lights are blinking on the ESC when the system thermals...which indicates motor has overheated. I did call Novak about this, but didn't know what lights were blinking at the time..they told me it could be a manufacturing problem, the drivetrain does not bind anywhere, I barely have to push the truck and it rolls freely. Is there anything I might look for before sending the system back to Novak? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
06-02-2005, 07:27 AM
I'd call them again and let them know that the blue & amber lights are blinking this time in case that gives them a better idea of something you can try before sending it in.
06-20-2005, 07:04 AM
UPDATE: HV-Maxx system went back to Novak, 1 week later they sent me a brand new sealed system! Very pleased with Novak's customer service!
As it turns out the motor rotor had failed...I received my new system last week, and have not taken the radio out of my hand since then! This thing runs great. I'm going through a set of nylon idlers about every 10 runs, but I drive it hard. Since the UE idlers are *still* on back order, I ordered the steel idlers from http://www.1320.4t.com/custom4.html ...I should be getting these later this week, so if anyone is interested, I will update this post with the results.
06-20-2005, 01:05 PM
Ironicly I'm in Florida too. I also had theraml trouble and sent it back to NOVAk also. Same results bad rotor. It would appear that this motor isn't 100% sealed. I had "alot of sand" inside the motor. It was replaced. Only cost $5 bucks for the shipping. I plan on cutting the windows out of the body and putting in mesh screen.
06-20-2005, 01:22 PM
The mesh is not a bad idea, if you dont jump the truck much...I'm thinking that will weaken the body quite a bit, due to the fact that the 'windows' are actually a major structural point of the lexan body...I just broke out the drill and started blowing holes in the windows, so now, the body kind of resembles a large piece of swiss cheese, but the motor stays cooler than it used to, so it's all good. :)
06-21-2005, 04:52 PM
In addition to the failure, you're also overgeared if you are still using 16/72. Please see the update.
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